What to torque it to?, 6 hexhead inner cv bolts Options

[6gsillyca]

EDIT:

Can someone please tell me what the 6 hexhead bolts should be torqued to? My manual lists:

hub nut - 137 ft-lbs
driveaxle inner cv joint-to-differential side gear shaft flange - 27 ft-lbs
right driveaxle centre bearing bracket bolts - 47

None of these seem correct, but since my axles are *non-stock* I'm not sure what the technical part term would be for them.

END EDIT




I need to replace my outer cv boot. I was looking into getting a new axle shaft, because I have read it is easier to RnR the whole axle rather than individual parts (axle, cv joint, cv boot etc). Then you also shouldn't need to worry about any damage to your joint because of the craked boot.

I need to know what parts to order though. Cv boot is on the front pass wheel. Would the axle half come with both inners and outers, and then would I need to RnR the inner with the e153 inner from my current set-up?

Would someone be able to explain what the inner and outer axles are, and how/where the inner attaches to the outer?

Here is a link to my thread in another sextion, but I thought the boosted guys might know the e153/st185 axles a bit better.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57022

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 15, 2008 - 12:42 AM

[6gsillyca]

Thanks for all the info and pics. I was going to get a puller as a last resort, but ended up not needing to remove the tie-rod end. I was able to get it out by removing just the 3 control arm nuts, but I did take off the sway bar endlink.


A good tip for using a puller though, is to keep the castle nut on the end of the tie-rod stud to avoid injury in the case of violent seperation. BTW does the castle nut get tq to spec? Because of the way the nut is designed I don't think I can tq it and still get the cotter pin in, due to the castle part covering the pin hole.


I packed the inner joint as good as I could, but because it came sealed with a zip-tie, I wasn't able to really pack it in. I put as much as I could into the joint, and the rest I stuffed into the inner "cup". I just used the bag of grease that came with the axle...Should I get some more axle grease and try and pack a bit more into the inner joint? I'm worried about the races/bearings falling out if I take the axle out again though...Will I be able to work the grease into the joint by turning the axle by hand back and forth? Or if I jacked the front of the car up and "drove" at a low speed? That way there would be no load on the axle, and the grease could get properly set.


I will have to get some blue loctite and RnR the bolts. I only had them tightened for now (until I could find the tq spec). BTW I do have 10mm hexhead not 8mm, so the money you were willing to put down...I accept paypal j/k


As for the spacer, yes I do believe so. This is Jays old car, but when I removed the axle, I was expecting a third "spacer" piece to come out after the 6 hex bolts were out, but it seemed to all be connected w/o the hexbolts. I posted a pic on the last page of what was left of my inner stub.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;hl=short+axle


BTW nice name. lol, even had the "e"

Corey.

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 19, 2008 - 12:10 PM