What to torque it to?, 6 hexhead inner cv bolts Options

[6gsillyca]

EDIT:

Can someone please tell me what the 6 hexhead bolts should be torqued to? My manual lists:

hub nut - 137 ft-lbs
driveaxle inner cv joint-to-differential side gear shaft flange - 27 ft-lbs
right driveaxle centre bearing bracket bolts - 47

None of these seem correct, but since my axles are *non-stock* I'm not sure what the technical part term would be for them.

END EDIT




I need to replace my outer cv boot. I was looking into getting a new axle shaft, because I have read it is easier to RnR the whole axle rather than individual parts (axle, cv joint, cv boot etc). Then you also shouldn't need to worry about any damage to your joint because of the craked boot.

I need to know what parts to order though. Cv boot is on the front pass wheel. Would the axle half come with both inners and outers, and then would I need to RnR the inner with the e153 inner from my current set-up?

Would someone be able to explain what the inner and outer axles are, and how/where the inner attaches to the outer?

Here is a link to my thread in another sextion, but I thought the boosted guys might know the e153/st185 axles a bit better.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57022

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 15, 2008 - 12:42 AM

[alltracman78]

Alltrac axle bolts are 10mm, not 8mm.
I can't say for the MR2, though I would guess they're the same....


If you got the axle in/out without removing the tie rod, all the better.

However, the quickest and easiest way [on a Celica] is to hit it where I showed you. You do have to hit it really hard, but it will pop out. I've never had one that wouldn't.
A puller will work too, especially if you don't have space to swing a hammer. I forget sometimes that you guys don't have the car on a lift.
It's called a Pitman arm puller, not Pullman, though.

If the joint won't turn smoothly, you most likely have the joint discombobulated. It doesn't need grease to turn smoothly by hand [though you obviously need the right amount for driving], and that joint is VERY easy to knock out of wack when it's not on the car.
Unfortunately it's a bit of PITA to get right if it is screwed up.
But you NEED to deal with it now, or else you'll need a new axle.

Torque the castle nut to spec and then however much of a turn is needed to install the cotter pin.