3sgte overheating at over 600+ bhp?<ADDED SKETCH>, My head wants to explode~! help please Options

[monkey]

So before my brain explodes, i thought id ask yall if this made any sense....
some of you know i am looking into building a very powerful engine eithor out of a 5sgte 3sgte or a 503e... with that said i have reached a block inmy thinking...
any help is appriciated.....

I recently just read this thread and it goes really indepth.... i took some of their ideas and fused them with mine and others and came up with a quite possible solution...
link at bottom of post......


on a st185 3sgte compared to a 185 3sgte TTE, the TTE's crank was apparently mounted 3mm below the OEM's spec, thus shaving off the top 3mm from the deck and continuing the headbolts down another 20mm to hold the head on, whats the reason behind doing this? I dont see one logical reason at all besides the extention of headbolts.. !!!! TTE head bolts are known to stretch and give thus making them superior to arp studs... which snap or crack the block....
now on the caldina from eithor 98 or 99 they also went along with the 3mm lowering but not the extending of the head bolts... then in the st165 they made the blocks alot thicker making the cylinderbody less likely to crack... now the 3sgte is known for having thin walls in the first place, making cooling an important must when making over 600bhp... sleves are not a nice option... dont suggest because theyve alreaddy done it and in high boost they come to utter failure.... the st1665 seemed like a better deal due to the fact you could over bore and not only lengthen the head bolts but widen also making it harder to bust the head off under high boost... now we come to a problem when the mechanical waterpump starts pumping so quick the block cant exchance energy with the cold water running through it.... thus cracking the block... thats bad... this is why they couldnt use the 3sgte engines in the rally cars... thus why they build there own racing engines... but if one could simply keep the oil and water temperature the same and low they could eliminate this problem, i herd someone talk about adding a swirl tank and swapping for a electric water pump, but electric water pumps apparently dont last long... but if one could take the mechanical water pump, but also tap into the system before and after the pump and adding a electric pump that can be switched on at a "hotter" temp, and installing a blow off valve when the mechanical pump starts generating too much flow, with apipe that leads to a overflow/swirltank thats between the head and the radiator, you could eventually stop the massive flow and keep a steady controlled flow at high rpm's with the electic thus using both pumps in their "best" areas persae than installing a oil cooler and installing thermostates that eithor notify the driver or cpu that it needs to be flipped to electrical or if its low enough to go back to mechanical.... than making the change...

now with the electrical water pump you could also ghetto rig a turbo timer to keep the waterflow going after engine cut off so the engine doesnt develope "spot boiling" thus cracking the engine....

It just makes sence to have a shiftpoint between the two pumps at a certain rpm consitering that with higher rpms higher heat, the engine is measured in rpm's the tranny is making you go faster.... so with that said, it could be completely standalone even......

would this sound like a logical solution to the problem common in 600+bhp 3sgte's

or should one just shell out the cash and get the 503e since it was built for the insaine temps that a rally car enures....

or did i just confuse alot of you with random jibber jabber......


http://www.gt4oc.net/forums/viewtopic.php?...p;sk=t&sd=a

This post has been edited by monkey: Jun 14, 2008 - 12:17 AM

[lagos]

Why is there a Bov in the drawing?