Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Jun 10, 2008 - 4:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I will be undertaking my manual to power windows and locks conversion soon! yay! So in preparation for it, if anyone has a wild hair and is willing to take some pictures of their power setup for me, I would very much appreciate it. Here's what I need:
- pix of behind the door panel so I can see where the rail, motor and lock actuator bolt on - pix of how the wiring harness is run along that same inside part of the door, up to where the rubber thingie goes into the panel by the door hinge - pix or description of where the harness comes out after run into the above mentioned panel - if possible, pix of where the other end of the wiring harness connects to. (back of fuse box under kickpanel?) If pix are too difficult, a description of where this thing goes would be great! - pix of the door lock relay. I know it's somewhere under the dash, down by the gas pedal. That's all I know. Same goes - if pix are too difficult, a description of what this plugs into. I'm visually oriented, so please use "landmarks" in any descriptions, and colors, i.e. "next to the gas pedal, above the hump and near the white connector" or whatever. Thanks so much! I'll follow up with a how-to w/photos when I do the conversion. This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 26, 2010 - 2:28 AM -------------------- |
Jun 21, 2008 - 4:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Okay, I'm undertaking this project this weekend. I have the DS door panel off and I've discerned which motor goes to which side based on the positioning of the window rail.
Question - do I need to remove the inside of the door (the metal part) in order to remove/replace the existing window track and mount the new one w/its motor? If so, HOW? Which bolts need to unbolt in order to do this? I've figured out which 3 bolts hold in the existing track. Will I be able to unbolt those and pull the window off the track w/out removing the inside of the door? It appears that the thread about changing the power window regulator indicates that I don't need to do that. (but maybe I do, to remove the existing window crank?) I'm a little lost here, hoping someone can help by morning. One last thing - where the heck does the door lock actuator go inside the door? I can't quite make sense of which rod connects to which part of the lock, and where it all bolts up. Thanks!!!!! This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 21, 2008 - 4:32 PM -------------------- |
Jun 21, 2008 - 4:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 14, '06 From Northampton, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Question - do I need to remove the inside of the door (the metal part) in order to remove/replace the existing window track and mount the new one w/its motor? If so, HOW? Which bolts need to unbolt in order to do this? I've figured out which 3 bolts hold in the existing track. Will I be able to unbolt those and pull the window off the track w/out removing the inside of the door? I wouldn't expect so. I would have thought you can feed the bits through one of the openings. Certainly it is much easier to feed the wiring loom through with the speaker removed. QUOTE One last thing - where the heck does the door lock actuator go inside the door? I can't quite make sense of which rod connects to which part of the lock, and where it all bolts up. I'll take some pics tomorrow. In the mean time: ^^ The two connectors at the top are the tweeter and the mirror connectors. You can see that once the loom has passed into the door, it comes back out again the the corner of the door and splits into two branches. One branch goes to speakers, mirrors and door controls; the other branch runs under the speaker and back into the door: It then goes to the window regulator, door acutator (behind the plastic film) , ... ... and courtesy light: This one isn't a particularly good photo I'm afraid. You can just about make out the door loom entering the body of the car through the rectangular white plastic grommet / loom protector in the center of the picture (this is the passenger side): Another similar shot. The rectangular plastic grommet is in the center top of the picture. The connections between the door loom and body loom can be seen in the bottom center of the picture (along with a connection between body loom and I forget what): Similar setup for the driver's side. The door loom passing through the rectangular plastic grommet in the drivers' kick panel: And the connections between door loom and body loom on the driver's side (also showing the connector between body and rear body loom). I've popped the plastic retainer out of the bodywork to get a better picture - you can see the hole in the bodywork that the retainer fits into just to the right of the retainer: Finally, a picture of the door control. On UK RHD cars, it is above the driver's left knee, tucked just behind the lower dashboard trim. The bracket that holds it in place is the overexposed bracket just to the left of the box. The bottom of the steering column can be seen in the top left corner of the picture: This post has been edited by BloodyStupidDavey: Jun 21, 2008 - 4:56 PM -------------------- Davey
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