Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 Options

[GriffGirl]

I will be undertaking my manual to power windows and locks conversion soon! yay! So in preparation for it, if anyone has a wild hair and is willing to take some pictures of their power setup for me, I would very much appreciate it. Here's what I need:

- pix of behind the door panel so I can see where the rail, motor and lock actuator bolt on
- pix of how the wiring harness is run along that same inside part of the door, up to where the rubber thingie goes into the panel by the door hinge
- pix or description of where the harness comes out after run into the above mentioned panel
- if possible, pix of where the other end of the wiring harness connects to. (back of fuse box under kickpanel?) If pix are too difficult, a description of where this thing goes would be great!
- pix of the door lock relay. I know it's somewhere under the dash, down by the gas pedal. That's all I know. Same goes - if pix are too difficult, a description of what this plugs into.

I'm visually oriented, so please use "landmarks" in any descriptions, and colors, i.e. "next to the gas pedal, above the hump and near the white connector" or whatever.

Thanks so much! I'll follow up with a how-to w/photos when I do the conversion.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 26, 2010 - 2:28 AM

[DEATH]

Do you still remember the info I gave you before you went to Vegas [I don't exactly]? I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.
Also - get that multimeter we talked about. You're just playing Hellen Keller without it.
Man I wish you lived around here Griffy - we'd have knocked that out in no time - I got all the tools you need for that job x3.

[ActionClaw]

... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.

I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?