Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
Jun 10, 2008 - 4:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I will be undertaking my manual to power windows and locks conversion soon! yay! So in preparation for it, if anyone has a wild hair and is willing to take some pictures of their power setup for me, I would very much appreciate it. Here's what I need:
- pix of behind the door panel so I can see where the rail, motor and lock actuator bolt on - pix of how the wiring harness is run along that same inside part of the door, up to where the rubber thingie goes into the panel by the door hinge - pix or description of where the harness comes out after run into the above mentioned panel - if possible, pix of where the other end of the wiring harness connects to. (back of fuse box under kickpanel?) If pix are too difficult, a description of where this thing goes would be great! - pix of the door lock relay. I know it's somewhere under the dash, down by the gas pedal. That's all I know. Same goes - if pix are too difficult, a description of what this plugs into. I'm visually oriented, so please use "landmarks" in any descriptions, and colors, i.e. "next to the gas pedal, above the hump and near the white connector" or whatever. Thanks so much! I'll follow up with a how-to w/photos when I do the conversion. This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 26, 2010 - 2:28 AM -------------------- |
Aug 19, 2008 - 3:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) |
... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't. I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate? I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine. You are correct Griffy. What I was saying is that if you disconnect your PS switch the DS window will still work but the PS won't from either side. If you disconnect the DS switch neither side will work at all [Similar to the retarded child lock on the window which will not allow your DS window to work either - WTF is that all about? Like the kid can't reach over and turn the switch back on? LOL - that wouldn't stop my kids ]. I am available to you 24-7 on this issue girl - you know that. LMK when you get ready to start up that mess again. [Actually the GF is doing some more Gothic Modeling crap tonight so if you need me - call] This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 19, 2008 - 3:16 PM -------------------- ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
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