Max Power NA 7afe ????, Dyno Charts Posted Options

[94celicadude]

Hey all,
I am currently building up my 7afe, i have bought a separate head and have already had new valve guides installed, its been cleaned and i have brand new toyota valves, exhaust and intake, i have had the intake ones machined to have more of the performance "penny on a stick" figure, i will post pics soon but for now here is an example Valves.

I am also going to have the Extrude Hone process ( Extrude Hone ) done to the entire head. The current 7afe in my car has a custom 4-1 headers (Headers), full exhaust, intake, clutch, lightweight flywheel, Apexi S-AFC II, bumped timing to about 14 degrees static timing. If i can find a used GT throttle body i will try to make it work, they seem to be fairly similar. Its been tuned and it has over 225k miles on the original engine. The gear box has been rebuild to brand new, and at last dyno the car was putting just about exactly 100 WHP on a 95 F day.

So i figure its already a healthy working little motor. To make this short, i was wondering who has had the highest NA horsepower out of a 7-afe . I am hoping to be able to build my motor to about 120-130 WHP, that would be ideal but im not sure exactly if i will achieve that goal. The bottom end is going to get first O.S. pistons, the head will be decked for a slightly higher compression ratio, and the entire engine will be blue printed. Then the entire crank assembly will be dynamically balanced with the flywheel and all the accessories on either end of it. Then it will all be put back together and have another tuning session on the dyno.

Now i know that it seems like a lot of money to do everything i am, which it is for only 130 WHP, but im looking to make this a great motor for auto-x. And if i have 200 WHP then ill just create a smoke show, so thats why im not just swapping in something else.

**CLIFF NOTES**

Who has the highest NA power 7afe with dyno numbers to prove it?

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: May 9, 2008 - 5:27 PM

[94celicadude]

Hey all!

sorry there has not been any updates lately...i have had the engine dynoed and got it tuned.

I will have to post the graphs later because i am very busy and this is finals week at school....so hopefully you guys can wait

The numbers that came from the dyno were not quite as impressive as i expected, but that is ok because over all, i have gotten about 20% gain in power over a factory motor.

The engine put down if i can recall correctly 107.77 HP and 110.77 TQ at the wheels.

so while those are no huge numbers, taken into perspective, a stock 7 AFE makes that power at the crank, so i figure i have made up for a little more than the loss of power through the gearbox...i think about 18% loss.

Now these are just the raw numbers, so if the proper calculations are made in order to normalize the HP numbers, then the motor puts down about 115 HP to the wheels.

Now the engine runs great, pulls extremely smoothly through the entire powerband and it makes it a joy to drive. I cannot wait to auto-x the car now, it also has been dropped another .5" so that should be relatively fun....to see what types of improvements i get.

Now on a side note, for those of you that have rebuilt a 7-AFE motor, i am wondering if you have ever had any issues with the motor burning oil.

I just did an all highway trip, the motor having about 4000 miles on it, and it was just a straight 200 mile trip on the highway at approx. 70-75 mph constantly.

I had filled up the oil to the full line before leaving for the trip, and then after coming home and letting the car sit for several hours, i checked the oil level and it was 3/4 of a quart LOW!!!!


Now i know that it burns oil on overrun, if i let the engine slow the car down in a gear, as soon as i step on the gas again, it puffs a cloud of blue/ white smoke.

I also know that that comes from bad valve guide/ seals, and the thing is that both were replaced in the rebuild.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in between the intake valve and exhaust valve seals? and could my head builder have possibly swapped the seals from one side to the other...so having reversed them from where they are supposed to go?...

I would love some insight on this before i decide that i am going to pull the head and replace, once again the valve guides and seals, hoping that this time they will do their job.

Once again all, thank you for support, and i hope that my posts have helped someone.

Let me know

Thanks
Matt

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: May 4, 2008 - 9:45 PM

[hurley97]

Now on a side note, for those of you that have rebuilt a 7-AFE motor, i am wondering if you have ever had any issues with the motor burning oil.

I just did an all highway trip, the motor having about 4000 miles on it, and it was just a straight 200 mile trip on the highway at approx. 70-75 mph constantly.

I had filled up the oil to the full line before leaving for the trip, and then after coming home and letting the car sit for several hours, i checked the oil level and it was 3/4 of a quart LOW!!!!


Now i know that it burns oil on overrun, if i let the engine slow the car down in a gear, as soon as i step on the gas again, it puffs a cloud of blue/ white smoke.

I also know that that comes from bad valve guide/ seals, and the thing is that both were replaced in the rebuild.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in between the intake valve and exhaust valve seals? and could my head builder have possibly swapped the seals from one side to the other...so having reversed them from where they are supposed to go?...

I would love some insight on this before i decide that i am going to pull the head and replace, once again the valve guides and seals, hoping that this time they will do their job.

I know you've already figured this all out but I thought I'd answer some of your concerns anyway...

First, my rebuild 7A consumes almost no oil at all. I had already changed the oil 3 times within the first 4k miles then again when I needed to swap the head, all those times I hadn't really checked how much was taken out since I did it at work and emptied it right into the waste oil container.
The last oil change (before the turbo install since I changed it then as well) I did right outside the house and emptied the used oil back into a container to find out if there was any consumption. There was about 13k miles on the motor at that point, I took out just under 4qts, when you account for residual oil in the pan and the filter full of oil it was probably a hair over 4qts, which is just what I put in.

Second, blue/white smoke on start up is valve seals, smoke while your driving is an indication for the oil control rings on the pistons.

Third, the valve seals are generally the same sizes but the rubber on the intake and exhaust seals are different. It probably makes no difference but the valve seals with the darker rubber part are the intake seals and the ones with the lighter gray rubber part are for the exhaust side.