Max Power NA 7afe ????, Dyno Charts Posted Options

[94celicadude]

Hey all,
I am currently building up my 7afe, i have bought a separate head and have already had new valve guides installed, its been cleaned and i have brand new toyota valves, exhaust and intake, i have had the intake ones machined to have more of the performance "penny on a stick" figure, i will post pics soon but for now here is an example Valves.

I am also going to have the Extrude Hone process ( Extrude Hone ) done to the entire head. The current 7afe in my car has a custom 4-1 headers (Headers), full exhaust, intake, clutch, lightweight flywheel, Apexi S-AFC II, bumped timing to about 14 degrees static timing. If i can find a used GT throttle body i will try to make it work, they seem to be fairly similar. Its been tuned and it has over 225k miles on the original engine. The gear box has been rebuild to brand new, and at last dyno the car was putting just about exactly 100 WHP on a 95 F day.

So i figure its already a healthy working little motor. To make this short, i was wondering who has had the highest NA horsepower out of a 7-afe . I am hoping to be able to build my motor to about 120-130 WHP, that would be ideal but im not sure exactly if i will achieve that goal. The bottom end is going to get first O.S. pistons, the head will be decked for a slightly higher compression ratio, and the entire engine will be blue printed. Then the entire crank assembly will be dynamically balanced with the flywheel and all the accessories on either end of it. Then it will all be put back together and have another tuning session on the dyno.

Now i know that it seems like a lot of money to do everything i am, which it is for only 130 WHP, but im looking to make this a great motor for auto-x. And if i have 200 WHP then ill just create a smoke show, so thats why im not just swapping in something else.

**CLIFF NOTES**

Who has the highest NA power 7afe with dyno numbers to prove it?

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: May 9, 2008 - 5:27 PM

[94celicadude]

no there is no coolant being burned. The head gasket was intact when i removed the cylinder head.

The problem is truly all with oil consumption, i had a problem with the car burning oil on over run, when u get up to 75 in third and just let the car slow down in third to about 50 and then just step on the gas normally, a big blue puff of smoke would appear...that was caused by the fact that there was too much pressure from the crankcase, and it blew oil back up and was sucked past the valve stem seals on over run, i managed to solve that problem before i even pulled the head.

But there was still an extremely high oil consumption, hence the 1 quart for ever 200 miles driven...NOT NORMAL.

I do understand that there are different types of rubber for the valve stem seals, and i hope the shop assembled it correctly, my guess is that one rubber is slightly more heat resistant than the other, for the exhaust valves.

The only thing that we can assume is that there was a mistake in the assembly of the bottom end, ie the pistons rings were placed incorrectly or the bore on the block was not properly matched to the piston sizes.

Once again, i will be able to tell what the real problem is once i have pulled out the pistons, until then these are only assumptions.

I appreciate the thoughts and inputs from everyone, please keep them coming i am always open to suggestions.

Thanks again

Matt