ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four Options

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

hey as title says im a noob to this forum (well i signed up years ago but was too lazy to post)

ive had a few celicas, and i dont reckon ill stop there. (ST185 RC, Series 6 13b turbo RA23, widebody ST185R and the 205) currently also have a TA63 GT-TR celica as a daily.

since there is no members ride thread section i could see in a quick view i thought ide post up what ive done to my bus.
Ive had it for about 2.5 years, done all the work myself, including all fabrications, rebuild etc) umm thats about all i can think to add atm, if you have any questions feel free to post up, im open 2 all opinions

Ride:
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four, ST205 Group A Rallye #61

Built not bought


Donk:
Gen 3 3sgte.

600x300 hybrid front mount with custom (2" stainless and 2.5" ally piping)

Turbosmart supersonic BOV
Turbosmart Ultragate external wastegate with screamer pipe

6boost exhaust manifold ceramic coated
Garrett GT3082 turbo (.64 rear, .7 front)
speedflow turbo fittings
stainless braided turbo oil feed

Custom side feed inlet manifold with velocity stack runners
Modified 2zz-ge throttle body
Custom Billet aluminium oversize idler pulley
Custom aluminium oil catch can
Custom silver steel slave cylinder pushrod
Custom carbon fibre airbox
Cutsom carbon fibre CAI scoop
Custom Bronze impregnated teflon shifter bush
Custom twin pod 4\\\" intake pipe

3" m/s and stainless mandrel bent zaust, heat wrapped dump pipe, Apexi megaphone dunk 7" cannon with 4"dump tip

TRD low temp racing thermostat,
TRD high preasure radiator cap
TRD oil cap
TRD engine mounts
TRD oil filter

ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ARP main bolts

NPC 5 puck brass button clutch and uprated preasure plate, (good for 350kw atw)
Reco'd clutch slave and master cylinders
Stainless braided clutch line
Redline supershock proof lightweight gear oil
Stainless braided gearbox oil cooler lines
relocated geatbox oil cooler
C-One sports diff mount

New OE idler and tentioner bearings
New OE valve spring retainers
New OE valve stem seals
New OE head gasket (steel)
New OE gaskets and belts
New OE rear main seal
New OE water pump
New OE clutch fork
New OE throwout bearing
New OE oil pump
New OE flywheel bolts
New OE preasure plate bolts

NGK Super Silicone plug leads

GReddy timing belt
GReddy Profec B Spec II electronic boost controller

Apexi Power FC Pro
Apexi Pod x2

HKS adjustable cam gears
HKS 264 deg cams
HKS valve springs
HKS Twin Power CDI ignition

Walbro 550hp fuel pump

Sard DRR fuel preasure regulator and adapter
Sard fpr guage
Sard 800cc injectors

ACL Race Series pistons
ACL Race Series rings
ACL Race Series engine bearings
ACL Alu glide little end bearings

deburred, balanced & blue printed
shot peened rods and crank
recut valve seats (3 angle stainless steel valves from the factory)
combustion chambers cleaned up and deburred.
acid dipped block
heat proof painted exhaust manifold and turbine housing
red rocker cover
stainless cap screws
Removed EGR valve
Removed purge tank
Davis Craig thermo fan
Samco blue silicone hose.
Extra engine earths



Outer:
JDM tinted tail lights
clear side repeaters
clear (and inner tinted) front indicators
semi debadged
lipped guards
dark tinted windows
Slimline and offset number plate :lolhit:
Projector headlights
Narva 100mm fog lights
Apex cone HID\\\'s 6000k
LED parkers
"Mook" "GT-Four" spoiler raiser block infills



Inner:
Momo steerer
TRD type 2 gearknob
turbo timer
Autometer phantom II boost guage
Autometer phantom II Oil preasure guage
White face dials by "mook"
Leather recovered centre console and gearshift boot



Stezza n other:
Pioneer mp3 head unit
Pioneer 4 channel amp (splits)
Pioneer 2 channel amp (sub)
JL Audio 6.5" front splits
JL Audio 6" rear splits
JL Audio 10" dvc sub
Pivot voltage stabaliser
Stinger ground loop isolater x2
Odyssey dry cell battery (under drivers seat)
2 way pageing alarm
LED interior lights
LED electric window control light
LED indicators
LED heater control lights
LED dash lights




Suspension and stoppers:
Tein 1 1/2 drop 4.5kg/3.7kg spring rate spring
KYB super special adjustable shocks
Slotted rotors all round
Project Mu B spec pads
Cusco adjustable pillow ball strut tops
Cusco 4 point chassis brace
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Racing Beat adjustable end links.
New fig 8 joints
New leading and trailing control arms
Nolethane front sway bar bushes
Stainless braided brake lines
Motul DOT 5.1 fluid
Rice red and clear coated brake calipers :lolhit: [/size]



Wheels:
Momo m1 18x8.5\\\"
stock ST205 16" 3 spokers (for racing)





Future Plans:
replace all bushes
TRD corners
TRD side skirts
Custom or aftermarket front strut brace
ally radiator and aftermarket oil cooler
and more:


thanks to:
Don (aka dons bodyworks) for the continuous use of the hoist/pit, and painting.
Tangcla for the continuing seach for parts
ART in melbourne for the tune

At the time of writing its making 265 kw atw on 22psi, with the radiator sturggling with engine temps. Best from the stock turbowas 204 kw atw.
best 1/4 mile was 12.8 @ 108 mph (stock turbo, 200kw atw)






















Hot Rod :lolhit:


Good head.


If you squint you can read HKS 3SG








This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Aug 13, 2009 - 2:09 AM

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ok update time, plenum is getting fully welded monday or tuesday, im really happy with the design, i think it will be the balls.

Ok I suspect some of you out there would be thinking, yeah 2zz throttle body would be a cool mod. Well before you go having a crack at it i thought ide do a little write up on whats needed to modify a 2zz tb for a gtfour.





ill go by numbers:

1. Cut off and weld a plate over what was the pcv (positive crank ventilation) nipple.

2. Spacer for the plate that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable.

3. Plate to hold the tps (because 2zz uses a 3 pin tps and 3sg uses 4)

4. New closed throttle stop, (reasons explained next)\

5. New open throttle stop

6. Plate that converts the outer sheath holding bracket to the pcd (pitch circle diameter, meaning the distance straight across from the centre of one hole to the other) of the 2zz tb.

7. Bracket that the cable runs around (dont know the proper name)

8. Close throttle stop again

9. Bracket for holding the springs (for spring return closed obviously)


Ok so here we go.

First task was to make a plate to hold the 205 tps (could of used the 2zz one, and added a limit switch for the closed earth loop, but would have encountered the same problems later).
Problem being that the actuation of the 2zz and 3sg tps is heaps different, 2zz uses a blade type about 12mm long and 3sg uses pins about 25mm appart. So i had to come up with a way of converting the blade to the spaced pins.

So having that sorted i needed to mount the 3sg tps somehow. The pcd of the 2zz throttle body is about 5mm smaller then the 3sg one, coupled with the fact i needed to space the 3sg tps at least 6mm from the tb to allow enough space for the actuation adapter i decided to make a piece out of 3mm ally.
So simply used a hole saw and a file to get the ID (internal diameter) i needed, drill 2 holes to mount the plate to the tb. Then drill and tap new holes in it for the holding screws for the 3sg sensor (keeping in mind the 3sg tps needs some adjustment so the sensor reads closed when it should (2zz tb isnt adjustable).

Then i needed to space it another 3mm, so made some banana shaped ally bits to space it out further and to hold it central to the tb shaft. With all this done i thought brilliant done. Not so, problem being the 2zz tb rotates (when opening) anti clockwise and 3sg goes clockwise. So naturall it wouldnt turn.
Bummer i thought, ill have to make it rotate the right way, meaning i needed to pull the butterfly out of the tb and spin it around so it will allow clockwise rotation. Naturally the screws that hold the butterfly in are tight as all hell, meaning i stripped the heads. So then i had to drill the heads off. And when i did that i went a bit offline and stuffed some of the thread in the shaft. So then i had tp pull the shaft out and weld the threads up so i could drill and tap new holes.

Naturally when you weld something like this it bends, so then i had to straighten the shaft and drill and tap the new holes. With that done and me gettin over this whole tb fiasco i put it all back togther, then because it now rotates the other way i couldnt use the 2zz thottle cable holder and spring assembly.

So i got the one off the 3sg tb, But then the open and closed stops didnt work, So i had to drill and tap a hole into one of the cast brackets on the tb for the adjustable closed stop, and weld a small piece of flat plate to the 3sg spring assembly.

With that done it was down to the open stop and the bracket for holding the springs. That wasnt too bad, bent peice of stainless with a "V" cut in it for the springs to hook into.

The open stop is a piece of 3mm m/s welded to the spring assembly bracket, and the actual stop rests up against the s/s capscrew that holds the spring bracket. I simply filed it down till it stopped when the throttle is completly open.

Then it was left to make the bracket to hold the bracket that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable. After much thinking i came up with what you see, with a couple of ally spacers turned up it uses the bolts that hold the tb to the plate (which will be welded to the plenum) to hold the plate that holds the plate that holds the outer sheath....still following :lolhit:

After this was done it now became apparent that there wasnt enough adjustment on the outer sheath, i needed it further from the tb. As this would involde turning up another couple of spacers and me being lazy i dedided insted to rotate the cable holding half round brackety thing a bit anti clockwise. Doing this effectivally legnthned the distance from the sheath holder and where the end of the cable is.

I slotted the half hole that grips to the shaft out a bit so i could rotate it, then when i was happy i drilled and tapped a hole into the spring plate to as an additional way of holding the cable half moon plate thingy. (if i didnt do this the plate MAY have rotated a bit sometime when i was driving, if that happened the throttle would have only rotated to about 3/4.)

I did a bit of port matching on the plate that bolts to the tb (which will be welded to the plenum like i mention earlier), ill do some more later on when its welded to the plenum to give the air a smoother path into the plenum.

luckily the 2zz and 3sg use the same iscv (idle speed control valve), so i dont have to touch that.

so there you go, if your keen on putting in the hard yards then go for it. As for me..... never fncking doing it again.



EDIT.
todays efforts, new foggies (look awsome compared to the stock units, suit the headlights)

almost all of the cold pipe intercooler pipework is complete, just waiting for the plenum to be finished to finish it off.






This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Oct 30, 2008 - 11:28 PM