7afe Turbo Options

[Cevax]

Well I didn't want to start this thread yet since I am still sourcing parts but I really need help getting parts since I am not sure what to buy. I have a 7afe now but i believe it has a rod knock and was told by a mechanic that to change the piston and rods the whole block has to be machined and will cost too much money, even though its only 350 dollars on parts or so for OEM pistons rods and rings he recommended me finding a new engine which I cannot find for less than 750 including shipping.

but if I buy piston and rods why wont they just drop right in?

I also have a 4age blue top head in my house that I got for the build before I found out my engine might be blown but if I have to buy a new engine its going to cost way to much to even begin the 7age conversion. My engine has a constant "knocking sound" coming from the cylinder head at around 1500 rpm it goes away at high rpm, It has 155k, abused but still runs strong. But during all this time looking for a motor (and saw a 7age with 115hp) personally started thinking that going with just the 7afte idea might more cost effective and since the 7a gets to peak torque so quick it should be more fun to drive( thoughts please), but anyway anybody with any experience on building a motor does it really have to be completely machined.

thanks

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jan 6, 2009 - 3:38 PM

[enderswift]

im confused, your mechanic says its rod knock but you say it comes from the head? two very different parts of the motor and its hard to confuse the two. something in the head would be more of a tick, the crankcase would be alot louder that gets worse with higher revs. someone correct me if im wrong. Either way, one is way more serious than the other so be absolutely sure. you should check this website out: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

if it is rod knock then a rod wont just drop in because its not just a matter of replacing worn/damaged components. any play in the moving parts within an engine can throw the whole reciprocating mass off balance, putting alot more stress on the block specifically the bearings. In the case of rod knock, the end cap can eventually blow off and the rod will go flying through your engine bay but thats the worst case scenerio. Usually, if rod knock, or anything else for that matter, goes on long enough, all of the load bearing surfaces are going to get worn down, not to mention unevenly. So even if you replaced the culprit parts, you will be working against yourself and the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. You need to get the the block checked and ground back to spec. This then involves oversize parts ect ect...

your last paragraph is hard to follow, you have a 4age which you wanted to use to make ur motor into a 7age? but then it started to knock? so now you want a 7afte?

no turbo till knock gets fixed?

This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 27, 2008 - 4:12 AM

[Cevax]

im confused, your mechanic says its rod knock but you say it comes from the head? two very different parts of the motor and its hard to confuse the two. something in the head would be more of a tick, the crankcase would be alot louder that gets worse with higher revs. someone correct me if im wrong. Either way, one is way more serious than the other so be absolutely sure. you should check this website out: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

if it is rod knock then a rod wont just drop in because its not just a matter of replacing worn/damaged components. any play in the moving parts within an engine can throw the whole reciprocating mass off balance, putting alot more stress on the block specifically the bearings. In the case of rod knock, the end cap can eventually blow off and the rod will go flying through your engine bay but thats the worst case scenerio. Usually, if rod knock, or anything else for that matter, goes on long enough, all of the load bearing surfaces are going to get worn down, not to mention unevenly. So even if you replaced the culprit parts, you will be working against yourself and the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. You need to get the the block checked and ground back to spec. This then involves oversize parts ect ect...

your last paragraph is hard to follow, you have a 4age which you wanted to use to make ur motor into a 7age? but then it started to knock? so now you want a 7afte?

no turbo till knock gets fixed?

Well my original idea was to build a 7age using a bluetop head I have from a 4age, but when I brought the car to the mechanics for compression testing we discovered that noise coming from the head. It starts at around 1500rpm but goes away at 2500k and up its not a ticking noise it a very fast "rustling noise" hard to explain and it is loud when outside the car. Then thing is that the car runs fine, its auto no vibrations and still tops out in third at 110 very quickly faster than my sis 7a with bolt ons. That is why I am asking if the car runs fine I just didn't think the motor had to be machined


(And sorry for the confusion but I meant I have a 4age head in my house that came from a 4age bluetop (i don't have the whole motor) yes I started a 7age project and my original thoughts was to use my block, then was told that the engine is probably no good and recommended to buy a new engine. Since a motor is going to cost me 750 after shipping it will be more cost effective to just build that motor into a 7afte since adding the GE head to the new 7a motor generally runs at about another 1k or so with cams, shaft and a port job, so thats 1750+ tuning for 115 hp (probably). Ok so with the cost of the new motor the 7age is not worth it. So I started buying 7afte parts and right now I have the inter cooler, t4/t3 turbo, pipes, and waiting for the stupid credit card authorization number so I can pay for the manifold and blow off valve, but If i can fix my engine and save my self the aggravation of buying a new one it would be great)

This post has been edited by Cevax: Nov 27, 2008 - 10:06 AM