7afe Turbo Options

[Cevax]

Well I didn't want to start this thread yet since I am still sourcing parts but I really need help getting parts since I am not sure what to buy. I have a 7afe now but i believe it has a rod knock and was told by a mechanic that to change the piston and rods the whole block has to be machined and will cost too much money, even though its only 350 dollars on parts or so for OEM pistons rods and rings he recommended me finding a new engine which I cannot find for less than 750 including shipping.

but if I buy piston and rods why wont they just drop right in?

I also have a 4age blue top head in my house that I got for the build before I found out my engine might be blown but if I have to buy a new engine its going to cost way to much to even begin the 7age conversion. My engine has a constant "knocking sound" coming from the cylinder head at around 1500 rpm it goes away at high rpm, It has 155k, abused but still runs strong. But during all this time looking for a motor (and saw a 7age with 115hp) personally started thinking that going with just the 7afte idea might more cost effective and since the 7a gets to peak torque so quick it should be more fun to drive( thoughts please), but anyway anybody with any experience on building a motor does it really have to be completely machined.

thanks

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jan 6, 2009 - 3:38 PM

[Cevax]

So I took the car to the shop today to have the mechanic take a thorough look at it instead of trying to figure out mysterious sounds. He found a few problems one of which was previously two types of coolant where mixed creating some brown sludged and its all over my cooling system along with rust. He believes there must have been water added and left there for a long time. The other is that the engines has a leak ( I knew about this) But this leak is right on the back of the gasket and could have cause damage to the head of the car(causing noise on the top end) and last but not least there actually is coolant in the block so the engine is screwed. Surprising really since it runs so smooth.

A new short block is going to cost about $600, I tried buying a 20valver before and it didn't work out so well, might have been for the better since the high power band is worthless where i live. So on Friday I want to place an order on a 4agze thats on ebay, issue is that it does not have a transmission, ecu, harness, or anything else for that matter for 1100. There is another that has everything for 1549 but I don't need the transmission(nor can i use it) and the inter cooler. I don't really care if its a ae101 or the other I just want the supercharger noise and a stronger block.

But what do you all think the 1549 (+300 shipping+ border fee) one seems really expensive I have seen st185 3sgte for cheaper but I cant afford the cost of the swap for a 3s. The 1100 for the ecu and harness alone cost $500 but shipping is only 120 bucks since it weighs nothing since it has no transmission and its in new jersey.

Also anybody here done this swap before, I have heard a lot of people having issues with the supercharger not engaging
(edit- also the mechanic said that he never done this type of work before (everybody owns a Honda) I know Dr tweak does wiring harness so it should be plug and play right?.... the mounts are the same and I am going to use a c52 so I can keep parts to a minimal.
kinda wish I could just drop it off somewhere and just have it done....sign kinda miss the Honda

This post has been edited by Cevax: Dec 2, 2008 - 9:35 PM