808's car problem thread lolz, done goose hunting for solutions |
808's car problem thread lolz, done goose hunting for solutions |
May 4, 2009 - 3:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
update: 01/02/2010
Code 12 Distributor recently changed Car died while coming to a spot at a friend's house. Took 3 cranks to get it running. Then died while coming to a stop sign 25ft from my friends house. Then in front of my house. This time tried cranking but no go. Got it kick started and let idle for 5mins. Then tried to rev the engine a bit in the engine bay, car didnt rev and died. Car was pushed into the garage and didnt start for 5mins. Tried 5 times cranking the ish and the 5th time it started with a low 400rpm idle for about 30secs and then went back to normal. I let the car run for about 3 mins while waiting for Herosblade to drive down and revved the car high, low, and medium rpm range. This time the car didnt shut off. thoughts?? **problem came back, but i have new experiences This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 17, 2010 - 5:24 PM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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May 4, 2009 - 6:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 16, '06 From Maui, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Oh boy not good. Yeah Luka that sounds about right. Jon you need to replace that as soon as you can so you can get the car up and running again. Try saving up some cash though as you will be roughly spending anywhere from $100 to $300 depending on what you are going to do during the fix. My suggestion is to find a MLS headgasket for the 5SFE so that you will have the assurance of a better headgasket in the long run then the junk oem composite headgasket. Also, you will need to buy new headbolts since you can't re-use the old ones (torque-to-yield bolts). And send the head to a machine shop to get it rebuilt/cleaned up. Doing this will probably set you around $160 for the rebuilt head with new valve seals. Maybe even cheaper since it all depends on what the machine shop charges. And during the time that the head is gone, you can replace the old t-belt, waterpump, and any other seals that you may want to replace. Also, clean up the block deck surface of all the old head gasket material, but make sure to cover up any holes and water jackets around the cylinders as you don't want debris going into them. Let me know if you need help with the problem. Shoots.
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May 4, 2009 - 8:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
As long as the head isn't warped you don't necessarily need to send it to a machine shop.
It all depends on the condition of the head. You do want to replace the head bolts though. My suggestion is to find a MLS headgasket for the 5SFE so that you will have the assurance of a better headgasket in the long run then the junk oem composite headgasket. IIRC the 98 has a metal HG stock.... And composite HG work very well for the most part. Metal HG are more prone to leakage [not blown, just not sealing correctly] if the surface isn't perfectly smooth. Composite HG are more forgiving, and tend to seal better on uneven surfaces. They last plenty long enough, as long as the engine is close to stock. -------------------- |
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