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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 16, '06 From Bowling Green KY Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
One of my friends offered to help me tackle this perpetual problem of my worn valve seals. I would never think about attempting this on my own, but he has a good deal of knowledge about this engine ( I bought the car off of him to begin with, he rebuilt the motor... but didn't change the seals... fail.) I did some searching and came up with a few things but not enough to really answer everything. Anyways, has anyone done this themselves? I would like to know what exactly I need to prepare for this, including the part number for the seals if anyone would be so kind as to source them. I'm 95% sure this is why i'm burning so much oil, not to mention my plugs get fouled within a few months.
I burn about 2 quarts a month and it is due time something is done about it. Thanks guys. PS: If someone is willing to help, I would drive to you in a heart beat ![]() -------------------- **If you play My Brute, joing the 6gc.net clan!**
--A section of a kid's actual test that had been scanned-- ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Nov 29, '06 From Newnan, Ga. Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
Answered your PM. My son's 7AFE was burning two qts every tank, I installed new valve stem seals using an on engine type spring compressor that I bought off ebay ($75) I sure was hoping that it was going to stop burning oil, but it didn't slow it at all. I installed a JDM engine that I picked up for cheap. Be sure an get one of those magnet probe to help install the stem locks back in. and cover up the oil return ports on the head to keep the small locks from falling into the pan. If I was going to do it again, I'd pull the head and do them on the bench.
This post has been edited by 56willysnut: Jun 2, 2009 - 5:38 PM |
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