How To – Mounting Bonnet Struts, Done on a GT4 but same principle for ST and GT |
How To – Mounting Bonnet Struts, Done on a GT4 but same principle for ST and GT |
Jan 16, 2009 - 10:31 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
How To – Mounting Bonnet Struts
Tools:
10mm socket 10mm spanner Screwdriver Time:@20-30 minutes Here is the package I received. Lift bonnet and use the bonnet stay to keep it up. Start at the right side of the engine bay (as you face the engine from in front of the car). Although instructions were provided, I found it easier by doing the following: Procedure:
2. Attach the replacement bolt/pivot to the bonnet strut 3. Replace the retaining clip Note: It’s a lot easier doing it this way because, once mounted, you will not be able to get that clip in. 4. Undo the bolt in the wing that holds the rubber bonnet stop (10mm socket) 5. Place the 2 washers (supplied) into position and then screw the bolt/pivot into position (10mm spanner) Note: Be careful not to strip the thread, it’s a little fiddly so just take your time and be patient 6. Remove the retaining clip from the other end of the bonnet strut 7. Attach the replacement plate/pivot to the bonnet strut 8. Replace the retaining clip Note: It’s a lot easier doing it this way because, once mounted, you will not be able to get that clip in. 9. Remove the upper bolt of the bonnet hinge (12mm socket) 10. Place the plate/pivot (not marked – see note below) into position and using the original bolt secure in place (12mm socket). You may need to lift and support the bonnet in order for the original bolt to locate properly. Note: Make sure that you have the right plate/pivot for that side. One plate/pivot had a sticker on it marked ‘R’, the other had no sticker or marking. The ‘R’ refers to the right BUT is as you sit in the car looking forward. The following picture shows one reason why I attached the plate/pivot to the strut first. 11.That’s one side done. 11. Repeat steps 1 – 10 for the other side. Note: The only difference I found was that I had to remove the washer jet tube located by the bonnet hinge. 13. Once you have done both sides, you can remove the bonnet stay. It’s retained in the slam panel by a round plastic clip. • Manoeuvre the stay towards you • Wiggle it around a bit and it should easily pop out, leaving the round plastic clip in the slam panel • Remove the plastic clip by easing it out with a screwdriver. 14. Job done. This post has been edited by 3TST: Jan 17, 2009 - 2:05 PM |
Sep 28, 2009 - 4:54 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 2, '05 From Guam Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
ok, imagine the bracket curves like an L and curves with the side of the hood like the pic, mine doesn't either way you mount the bracket the l shape cuts into the paint no matter what position. Bascially instead of the bracket going around the side of the hood, it cuts straight into the hood like scraping it as I tighten it, the bracket dont even sit flat. so I angle the bracket so it doesn't chip my paint. From here everything mounts but as I close the hood, it hits the inner part of the fender.
if I widen the holes will I be able to position it better? I'm thinking as I widen the holes also, it allows the bracket to turn as it goes up and down like it won't stay in place. Unless I use those gripper washers. do you have pics of yours? I can try to widen the holes and life the bracket up higher to see if it gives me room between the bracket and the hood spacing. Did you guys mod yours? Also why does the bracket in the first post have two holes and mine has a gigantic one that looks like it has been already widened? This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 28, 2009 - 4:59 AM -------------------- 94 Celica GT
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