I Swapped 3s-ge Redtop Into 97 Limited Edition Vert., Pictures are restored, many more added 5/24/11 Options

[njccmd2002]

5/24/11 this thread was edited, with updated pics and added extra information for those beams swappers!!!!

anything you see in red, its very important to pay notice to, it will save you money in the long run...


Also this is not the bible of the Beams swap, others have attempted this swap and have good experience with it. No this swap is not going to give you 600 hp


GOOD LUCK!!!


Ok, before anyone asks, it wont go in until December, how much i paid, plenty bucks...

I will keep my fingers crossed until then, cuz i wont have warranty, but its supposed to be low mileage engine between 20 - 35 k miles. Seller forgot to ship the ecu, but will ship it on monday..

i have a question for Turnip and 2bcelica batman or rusty. I have a couple of cables that need ID

With any swap make sure you are getting what you are buying, ask for pictures to the seller, you dont understand how important this is because, you will be misled into buying crap!!!!





that little thing you see there is the vvti sensor, this is the most common broken sensor and its expensive, about 300 usd...





See how clean the engine looks from inside, this attests to the low mileage claim, well most of the time



Another big issue, as this is missing the OEM box and the MAF, two items very important to keep the air flow regulated.



This next picture and the previous one, shows something important, the Bpipe, your swap must have one, or make it from scratch, good thing to also get the axles, you see, mine were cut, although you can use the 5sfe axles, the beams axles are beefier.











The OEM fuse box, very important because you want that EA1 plug intact!!!



And please, the most important, GET THE ECU, they forgot to send mine.




the first one, is this cable located at the exit of the TPS sensor i asume, its three cables black red and white.



on the harness this one is located here kind of goes to the back, dunno


the other one, is another cable that goes parallel to the AFM sensor, its cut so dont know what it is, it looks like another set of 3 cables... this one goes to the front...




of course cut under the fuse bay harness, but i assume this are for foglights and headlights.



Unknown sensor, but i have a plug that fits, and is not one of the any ones that have been cut. located on the intake, so must be some sort of vacuum sensor



an extra vvti solenoid, cuz the original is broken.... hope its not a pain to replace this bastard...



I got the B pipe, but the flex section, is very flexy, as i remember my 5sfe one was a little stiffy. so i dunno.

All you beams swappers are welcome to put your input...

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 2:22 AM

[njccmd2002]

well, no really updates but i have been looking around the previous posts from turnip and 2bcelica and help from Batman, it seems the swap is easier than most other swaps.

This will be the slowest swap ever, its being done by me. Since its a low miles engine, i will swap first and then change the pumps and belts and stuff couple of miles down the road. first i got to make sure it runs.

I am a learner with pictures, so i will post every pic that i get so that everyone benefits, this swap is a good alternative to a turbo and looks close like OEM, as well.

I will start backwards, start with the wiring first and im tempted to run the amp wire through the firewall, might as well since ill have it all naked. I will change all the wiring loom, so i will have chance to do this....

here is what i learned today..


so far if im not wrong here are few of the steps right?

again the credits go to my friends, this is nothing i invented

extend the maf wires

on EA1

bridge together pins 4 and 17
bridge together pins 2 and 12 (not confirmed)

move white plug (pin #18) to dark grey plug into (pin # 17)

For Cruise dark grey interior harness (pin #10) tap into blue/white stripe wire from the ECU

For SRS run a wire from EA1 through the engine harness (or body) to the light grey interior plug (pin #5)

this is basically, i have seen the wiring diagrams and seems ok. guess its almost plug and play...

the ignitor (now i know what it is) on this pic dissapear, so less weight



the fuel filter right?




the charcoal canister, LOL i finally found it



and the famous EA1 plug so that everybody knows.




another view, this is where i would tap in to run the srs wire.



i will post more things as i go understanding.

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 26, 2011 - 12:19 AM