7A-FTE made in Germany Options

[Hafkai]

Hi, after over a year of gathering parts my Celica finally is in the garage and gets her custom header, exhaust and some other stuff.
Yesterday we fitted the big Evo9 intercooler, i had to get the ST205 crash bar because the stock one is to tight, intercooler piping was done too and i'm very happy with it. I will use the stock ST205 air filter box, since there is not much space between the filter box and the engine, the IC piping is a little bit tricky but it looks like we found a good route.









The header will be done in the next days.



Short list of parts i'm using:
- Garrett T25 Turbo from a CA18DET
- Mitsubishi EVO 9 Intercooler
- E-manage Ultimate
- Innovate LC-1 Wideband
- ST202 3S-GE Injectors (372ccm)
- ST205 Fuel Pump
- Bosch Blow-Off from a Audi S3
- Custom Header and 3" Exhaust
- dozens of other small parts

[SwissFerdi]

Interesting. OOBE said that 8 PSI was the max on stock internals. No issues whatsoever though?

[OOBE]

Interesting. OOBE said that 8 PSI was the max on stock internals. No issues whatsoever though?

WTF? I NEVER said that 8 PSI was the max on stock internals. I've had mine to 15 PSI.

The "mechanical engineer" guy was the one that said that. I was the one that broke that myth here years ago about the 7A-FE not being able to handle more than 7 PSI.

[SwissFerdi]

No issues at all, it depends on the injection and especially the ignition tuning how much a 7A will handle without braking something. I tuned my 7A to run with an afr of 11,5:1 at full boost and retarded the timing a lot. It's absolutely important to watch engine knock while tuning.
8 psi is pretty safe on a good tuned 7A, 10 psi is the max i would give a stock engine over a longer period of time, maybe 12-13 psi with an water injection.
If you want to go higher you have to lower the compression and get some stronger internals...

I do know stronger internals are eventually necessary, I just thought that point was past 8 PSI.

WTF? I NEVER said that 8 PSI was the max on stock internals. I've had mine to 15 PSI.

The "mechanical engineer" guy was the one that said that. I was the one that broke that myth here years ago about the 7A-FE not being able to handle more than 7 PSI.

OOBE, you lied to me! Okay, good then. What I'm really looking for is not necessarily a max, but a good point for a DD. What do you run daily?

So both of you guys, push the hell out of your engines so Ferdi has plenty of study material!

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 9, 2009 - 5:11 PM

[OOBE]

Ferdi,

With good tuning, 10 PSI on a good size turbo is nothing for this engine. You can run it daily. Even with the piston I hurt in the dyno, I was still boosting 15 PSI daily until the car overheated because of a failing radiator fan last week. The broken piston never got more hurt than what it was when I overboosted 18 PSI at the dyno, which is when it broke. The dyno read 222 WHP when the piston broke and I wasn't even on WOT. Who knows if the engine saw over 250 horses. The dyno read that, but the engine might've made way more. That's asking a lot. These are replacement pistons, so they might be weaker than Toyota pistons.

Remember that different turbos give you different power per pound of boost, and the weather conditions affect power A LOT, which is a very important fact that most people forget or fail to realize. In my case, just one PSI in the lower boost range on my turbo counts for ten wheel horsepower according to the dyno, and that's on 85 degree weather at night with a lot of humidity. I might get more on a cool day, which never happens in this island. I also have a bigger turbo, custom intake manifold and bigger throttle body...and also a more efficient intercooler with a horrible two PSI pressure drop. These items were not installed last time I dynoed, so I cannot compare the numbers. Everything changed. Who knows how much these items helped the engine or took away. I couldn't baseline unfortunately.

At 15 PSI, I'm probably getting a bit more than ten wheel horsepower per pound of boost, since the turbo is in its sweet spot on higher boost. Taking this into consideration and given the acceleration rate and how the car feels, if I follow that 10 WHP/PSI ratio, who knows if I'm probably at 250 WHP as of now...ignoring that the head is warped and that the piston is hurt. It's very possible, since the AFR stayed religiously the same from 7 PSI to 18 PSI and the power was being made consistently.

If it wouldn't have overboosted, it wouldn't have broke a piston and I ASSUME I would be around that power level, give or take. A smaller turbo will give you less obviously. So after my experience, I can say that with a good tune, you can boost a bitty more than 200 WHP daily with no problems.

This post has been edited by OOBE: Nov 9, 2009 - 6:15 PM

[SwissFerdi]

With good tuning, 10 PSI on a good size turbo is nothing for this engine. You can run it daily. Even with the piston I hurt in the dyno, I was still boosting 15 PSI daily until the car overheated because of a failing radiator fan last week. The broken piston never got more hurt than what it was when I overboosted 18 PSI at the dyno, which is when it broke...about 230 WHP...which yields about 250 or more to the engine sicne this is an auto tranny. That's asking a lot. These are replacement pistons, so they might be weaker than Toyota pistons.

Remember that different turbos give you different power per pound of boost, and the weather condiions affect power A LOT...something that most people forget or fail to realize. In my case, just one PSI on my turbo counts for ten wheel horsepower, and that's on 85 degree weather at night with a lot of humidity. I might get more on a cool day. A smaller turbo will give you less power per pound of boost. So after my experience, I can say that with a good tune, you can boost a bitty more than 200 WHP daily with no problems.

That's great to hear. 200 WHP would be PLENTY for me, especially coming from...80ish WHP? Realistically, I'd like to say I'll be able to work on the engine once I start this turbo install...but more than likely, I'll still need to learn. Simplistically, I'd like to bolt the stuff on and get it tuned to a reliable standpoint for DD where I won't have any problems. I do want my money's worth in power right away, obviously.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 9, 2009 - 6:01 PM