FS: 1995 Toyota Celica GT (GT4 Front end conversion and ST205 motor sw, $1500 Options

[SlvrCelica09]

Hey guys.. It would seem that sad time has come. I no longer can afford 2 cars, I need to focus my attention on school.. so sarcrifices have to be made. I have up for sale a silver 1995 toyota celica with a gt4 front end(black) with a st205 motor swap. has 18 inch rims, drilled/slotted rotors... the engine starts up and runs.. but needs a new sensor as it has a rough idle.. also needs a new alternator.. and the intercooler and intercooler pump wiring needs to be completed.

The driver side door is pretty beat up.. got hit by a car a couple years back and never was able to fix it.. the interior panels were spray painted silver and are chipping out.. the GT4 hood suffered that notorious hood to windshield fate so its not in the best shape.. the handbrake needs to be adjusted.. i belive the transmission is no longer working.. dont know for sure.. but I would advise anyone planning to buy this to buy a either a new 5sfe transmission or a e153 transimission. engine needs a new power steering assembly.. and I believe thats about it.. heres some pictures startng from the most recent.. (about a month ago)

asking $1500 plus shipping






This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Apr 5, 2010 - 10:25 AM

[lagos]

What sensor?

[SlvrCelica09]

What sensor?

its the Valve assy Air control part # 25740‑88480

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1996_TOYO...MVZ_1708.9.html

it was broken on my engine and needs to be replaced, there was vacuum leaks coming out of the hoses for that sensor also when I did the test

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Jan 4, 2010 - 3:02 PM

[presure2]

What sensor?

its the Valve assy Air control part # 25740‑88480

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1996_TOYO...MVZ_1708.9.html


it was broken on my engine and needs to be replaced, there was vacuum leaks coming out of the hoses for that sensor also when I did the test

thread cleaned.
if your not interested in buying this car, please do not post.

just as an FYI for you and for potential buyers, that sensor and hoses are not needed for the engine to run 100% perfect.

all that sensor does, is basicly create a controled vac leak when you turn the wheel to full lock, so that it idles up ~100rpm to compensate for the load placed on the PS pump, and therefore the crank. you can plug those hoses, or better yet pull them off the air pipes and cap the outlets.
the car will idle down a bit when you turn the wheels to full lock, no harm, no foul.

[dustin15brown]

What sensor?

its the Valve assy Air control part # 25740‑88480

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1996_TOYO...MVZ_1708.9.html


it was broken on my engine and needs to be replaced, there was vacuum leaks coming out of the hoses for that sensor also when I did the test

thread cleaned.
if your not interested in buying this car, please do not post.

just as an FYI for you and for potential buyers, that sensor and hoses are not needed for the engine to run 100% perfect.

all that sensor does, is basicly create a controled vac leak when you turn the wheel to full lock, so that it idles up ~100rpm to compensate for the load placed on the PS pump, and therefore the crank. you can plug those hoses, or better yet pull them off the air pipes and cap the outlets.
the car will idle down a bit when you turn the wheels to full lock, no harm, no foul.

So are you saying that's all it would take to fix the problem Manny? Or what. I have a friend interested

[SlvrCelica09]

What sensor?

its the Valve assy Air control part # 25740‑88480

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1996_TOYO...MVZ_1708.9.html


it was broken on my engine and needs to be replaced, there was vacuum leaks coming out of the hoses for that sensor also when I did the test

thread cleaned.
if your not interested in buying this car, please do not post.

just as an FYI for you and for potential buyers, that sensor and hoses are not needed for the engine to run 100% perfect.

all that sensor does, is basicly create a controled vac leak when you turn the wheel to full lock, so that it idles up ~100rpm to compensate for the load placed on the PS pump, and therefore the crank. you can plug those hoses, or better yet pull them off the air pipes and cap the outlets.
the car will idle down a bit when you turn the wheels to full lock, no harm, no foul.

So are you saying that's all it would take to fix the problem Manny? Or what. I have a friend interested

A to do list for the engine:

alternator needs to be replaced
Replace that sensor
wire in intercooler and intercooler pump

Also needs a new axles.. pm me if you have anymore questions

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Mar 22, 2010 - 1:24 PM