Advice/Progress Thread, update on pg4, 5/26/10 |
Advice/Progress Thread, update on pg4, 5/26/10 |
Oct 21, 2009 - 5:43 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 23, '08 From Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
Hey guys, if you have restoration experience i could really use your help.
The paint job and all the dents finally put me in the position to sell the 6g. problem was i couldnt find a car that can match the 6g's "feel" if you know what i mean. Since having a shop repair her is so expensive, i figured ill tackle restoring her on my own. After watching alot of youtube videos and reading how-to's on restoration, im confident enough to try it, but still have a few questions and would appreciate your opinions. (1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)? (2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem? (3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap? (4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely? (5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed. (6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless. This is alot of info and questions but i would appreciate any input on 1, 2, or all of my questions. Thanks, -Joel This post has been edited by captb: May 28, 2010 - 10:13 PM |
Jan 20, 2010 - 2:11 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 25, '03 From Springfield, MO Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
i just skimmed through your thread so bear with me...
-DO NO FIBERGLASS ANYTHING BUT FIBERGLASS! -if you get a toms lip then it will need to be plastic welded or bonded with a 2 part epoxy like said before. -http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DX%26um%3D1 you need the cold knife and the long knife to do it. 1. take out your interior trim 2.get inside and u will see the pinch weld that the glass is glued to 3.take the cold knife with a 90 degree bend blade shove it into the urethane and pull (careful NOT to put too much stress on the glass or you will have to buy ANOTHER) 4.you wont be able to get in super deep so you will use the long knife to cut deeper 5.push out the glass SLIGHTLY to see if and where it moves and keep cutting where it doesnt *the corners all are crap to do so just take your time and use a heat gun to help pull the glass away from the body and cut as you are pulling this is the best i can do without pictures....just take your time and don't cut the trim around the glass because you will reuse it -do not fill holes with anything but the material it is..IE weld steel don't use bondo-it WILL rust again and ruin the paint job/your hard work (1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)? save your money and have a local reputable shop do it. it will look better/ last longer than maaco..which in my opinion is the WORST option (2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem? use as little FILLER (bondo is one of many brands-its body filler) as possible...try not to use any because if you bump anything just right it will crack(give pictures for better answer) (3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap? cheap body kit= ****ty body kit. i had a cheap nvader kit and it was just over 1/16in thick. you could get lucky and it fits first try but more than likely you will have to heat it up and bend it into the correct shape...i say go OEM with lips/extensions OR get authentic stuff (4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely? unless there are clear holes do not cut and weld.--your doors can be salvaged pretty easy. you will need to take them off and remove the rubber, use that rust buster wheel in the picture to remove the seam sealer and rust from the door...re seam seal it (seam sealer is in a tube like caulk and is applied the same way) then after it dries you can re paint it--i suggest you strip the rust/seam sealer first...prep everything else then apply seam sealer. i had to do this with both of my doors, although they were much more mild (5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed. how good of a job do you want? is it going to be a color change? these are things to consider as well but for the most part take it all apart-i took my mirrors apart that way there would be no red visible ever. did i have to-no. but i wanted a nice finish. if you do not take them apart then u cant prep insice the mirror and overspray will get in there and eventually peel (6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless. basic restoration IS ageless but techniques evolve and materials do too I hope i am helping and not scaring you away from doing this, i am just trying to make sure you don't regret starting the project and doing it to the best of your ability---mediocrity sucks This post has been edited by b1gr3d: Jan 20, 2010 - 2:36 PM -------------------- Coming in 2010 full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage |
Jan 21, 2010 - 7:08 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 23, '08 From Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?
oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed. and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? |
Jan 21, 2010 - 8:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 13, '10 From Taiwan Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same? yallow lamp ugly.turn lamp clean more better thanks your anser so clear.but it sound diffcule.clear plastic between the part it possible.it seam difficul. thanks your advice i take few day conseder project resons to 98-99celica ..ok i clean right now
oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed. yes i check it passble and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? : |
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