Flush Fit Wheel Fitment, Offsets for Flush Fitment which is Proper Fitment Options

[Harold_Fastwaker]

So you want to be Dope Status now? Maybe your life goal is to make it on HellaFlush, well this is the offset numbers you need for that to happen.

First: You will need to run stretched tires for this to work and preferably a nicely lowered car.......... Or 4x4 your car and run it Donk status. I don't care, but you will have to choose one of those options.


FOR THE FRONT WHEELS ONLY **Your fronts should have been rolled from the factory. 9.0+ will probably need a bit of a roll to crush the plastic liner in a bit.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-5mm
6.5" ---------- et 0mm
7.0" ---------- et+10mm
7.5" ---------- et+15mm
8.0" ---------- et+22mm
8.5" ---------- et+27mm
9.0" ---------- et+33mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. May need to start running negative camber at this point)
9.5" ---------- et+40mm (you will be cutting it close with the strut. Probably need to start running negative camber at this point)
10.0" ---------- et+45mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)
10.5" ---------- et+50mm (At this point, you will need negative camber, a good fender pull and probably better off with a +35ish offset and going with wide fenders.)



FOR THE REAR WHEELS ONLY **You need to roll your fenders for all of these.
Width ---------- Offset (et)
6.0" ---------- et-20mm
6.5" ---------- et-15mm
7.0" ---------- et-8mm
7.5" ---------- et-2mm
8.0" ---------- et+5mm
8.5" ---------- et+10mm
9.0" ---------- et+18mm
9.5" ---------- et+23mm
10.0" ---------- et+30mm (Will start to cut it close with the strut. Negative camber may be needed. My best guess is you will be alright)
10.5" ---------- et+36mm (At this point, you will probably hit strut. Negative camber is needed. Probably would want to run a lower offset and just pull the crap out of your rear fender to make it tuck.)


As for tires, I highly suggest you run 45 series tires and I HIGHLY recommend Falken 512s. They handle stretching very well.


These numbers will make your wheel flush with the body. If you want to wheel to poke then run a lower offset then I have listed. This in turn means you need to run a smaller diameter tire and some negative camber.




Spacers:
For those of you who need a 25mm spacer or larger for your look. I suggest A-Dapt-It USA (http://adaptitusa.com/) or Motorsport Technologies (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/)
The A-Dapt-It's will be cheaper and will be lug centric to the wheel. Motorsport Tech can make you hubcentric to hubcentric adapters which are double the cost of A-Dapt-It's. Either choice is fine, I run lug centric and so do plenty of other people. Toyota still ships cars off the assembly line with lug centric wheels. Don't let the scare tactics of hubcentric or die mess with your head. With lug centric you just need to tighten your lugnuts in the standard star pattern starting from the top.






This thread was made separate due to not wanting to have an e-thug battle.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Oct 6, 2009 - 11:30 PM

[Driveby]

I dont know the exact reading mate, I set it up with a spirit level (to get both sides equal) and how it looked. I have coilover rear suspension set for track use so is very firm, I am planning on rolling my rear arches as Im on a quest for moar low although I dont need to with my current set up. Maybe the 202 and 205 rear suspension setups are quite different, Im not sure. The tops of my rims are flush with the outer arch and I can get 1 finger between the top of the tyre and the arch. The bottom of the strut is only 3mm from the rear cv boot so I darent go any lower on this setup
Im at a 2litre turbo shoot-out tomorrow so will hopefully get some good pics and will post them up for approval.
Hope this helps mate.