Installed RacingBeat Rear Links, ..goodbye TwosRUs Options

[azian_advanced]

So here's the story. As i was in the middle of upgrading my suspension from teins to even better teins, i had sheared one of the studs off of the TwosRUs links because it had fused with the sway bar. apparently links should always be greased up since they swivel and rub with the sway bar while going over bumps so i can imagine the heat or friction occurring and cause the bolts to seize. so instead of ordering another pair, i decided to try something else. after a quick search, i found out a couple of members are using racingbeat rear links off of a 90-97 miata without problems.

After a quick comparison between the two I have to say that not only are the RacingBeat links more affordable than the TwosRUs ones ($59 vs. $75 for the pair), but they're imo beefier and better designed. the studs don't have spherical joints unlike the TwosRUs links and instead have urethane bushings so it provides a stiffer connection with the sway bar and the struts. these can also be adjusted in length just like the TwosRUs links.

..so if you're going to upgrade springs and/or rear endlinks, go for these.. just make sure you grease all the bolts and between the washers and swaybar for easy removal in the future. Now I just need to find similar ones for the front...


Link: 90-97 Miata Sway Bar Rear End Links














RacingBeat Miata vs. TwosRUS ST185 Rear Links





The TwosRUs links in their prime






This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Sep 21, 2012 - 2:01 AM

[pittfirefighter]

NO BOTH OF THOSE ARE FALSE - if you lower your car, as long as both sides are lowered the same amount, there is no preload... it may limit the effectiveness of the endlinks because the bolts may no longer be parallel with the ground, but with the celica setup - the front has NOTHING to do with ride height... the endlinks are attached to the A-Frame, not the shocks, the back it is attached to the knuckle... some of the things said in the thread are ridiculous... i really need pictures to fully show what is going on with these...

the sway bar being parallel with the ground has nothing to do with the endlinks at all... the endlinks affect the degree between the mounting location on the knuckle/aframe and the pivot point... think of it like this... take a piece of wood like a 2x4 for instance that is say 6 feet long - now push on it against a nonmoving object like a wall with the 6ft section between you and the wall.... so one end of the wood is against the wall and the other is against your stomach or arms... you are pushing on it with the width of the board parallel to the ground... now rotate that wood so that is it perp to the groun or at a 45 degree angle... push on in the same way... does the rotation make any difference on how strong it is? the mounts (pivots) of the sway bar to the frame MAKE IT PARALLEL to the ground in the orientation that matters


the racingbeat endlinks will give a stiffer feel - but limit the POSITIVE movement of the suspension... putting terrible stress on other parts... the twosrus endlinks are made to create a stiffer feel while REMOVING stress on other parts of the suspension... if you drive your vehicle once a month at a track event and want the best feel - skip the racingbeat endlinks (the only time these would even be considered) and weld a bar between the mount and sway bar- thus eliminating independent suspension, otherwise for daily driving that is improved while not sacrificing reliability - twosrus are the way to go

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 5:59 PM