Lights dimming to bass... Options

[lilguy]

Hey all with my current audio setup when there is a high bass beat on each beat (doof of tha sub ) all the interior and headlight will dim slightly...

Currently have it set up:

Headunit (50x4 RMS)
powers: 6.5" 3-way speaker 55 watts RMS (back speakers)

600 watt 4chan amp (75x4 RMS at 4ohm, 100x4 RMS at 2ohm, 195x2 RMS bridged at 4ohm) powers: 6.5" component speaker splits 70 watts RMS (front speakers)
and 10" subwoofer 150 watts RMS (boot, through LPF)

900 watt monoblock amp (240 Watts RMS at 4ohm, 350 watts RMS at 2ohm)
powers: 12" subwoofer 250 watts RMS (boot)

Now doing a little reading and what i have gathered that will fix the problem is a Capacitor?
and from what i have read about them for ever 1000 watts of amps i need 1 farad.
So for my current install id be looking at 2 farads to be safe, but im also looking at getting another of the 900 watt monoblocks and the 12" sub to replace the 10" so that would be 3-4 Farads to be future proofed...

I have looked at some capacitors and they seem to be big $$$ and then some that are only $90-120 is there a difference in them, will they cause problems or are they the same basic thing?

Thanks all and if a capacitor isn't the solution what is?

[stephen_lee]

i have a 2000 watt rms system, and a carPC.
i had major dimming with that setup.
i upgraded my grounds, got an optima yellowtop, with a stock 70a alt..no dimming

now my setup is still 2000watt RMS
carPC
4ga grounds
4ga from 160amp alt
4ga from battery to starter
redtop front/yellowtop rear
1/0 ga power to rear batttery/power block
4ga to amps

of course no dimming lol.


NO CAPACITORS. theyre BS IMO.
i've had the first setup for close to two years w/o issue.
i upgraded because, well.. i like upgrades

[CJOHNST3]

i have a 2000 watt rms system, and a carPC.
i had major dimming with that setup.
i upgraded my grounds, got an optima yellowtop, with a stock 70a alt..no dimming

now my setup is still 2000watt RMS
carPC
4ga grounds
4ga from 160amp alt
4ga from battery to starter
redtop front/yellowtop rear
1/0 ga power to rear batttery/power block
4ga to amps

of course no dimming lol.


NO CAPACITORS. theyre BS IMO.
i've had the first setup for close to two years w/o issue.
i upgraded because, well.. i like upgrades

I'd like to know what alternator you got, like send a link or specifics.

I have a good battery, but stock alternator, and get dimming when I use my car pc, when I turn on healights etc - and when I get to a stop sign or red light, the engine idles, and my lights dim - will the alt. fix that?

[mgnt232]

I know with my cousins civic, he just bought an ebay HO alternator. He only kept the car for a year, so I cant be sure on the life of them, but I can suggest them for at least a year lol.
The stopping thing is more complicated i guess. Since you have a manual, when your stopping or the clutch is depressed, the engine RPM drops to the idle, and with that the rpm to the alt is alot lower, and the alt puts out less. (more rmp, more amps out... to an extent) And our alts are 70 amp yes; But 70 amps is MAX more than likely never achieved under regular driving conditions.
To get NO! dimming at all, what so ever when just idling (and a large system, demanding more power) You would need to get alot of things done. Big3 (or more depending on how the system is setup) with at least 4 gauge (i used 1/0 throughout) better batteries, and make sure your connections are very solid! with bad connections, come voltage drop
And as said before my cousin had an ebay alt with his system (all RF and alpine, 2000 watt) (had a big 3 with 4 gauge, and a cap) The lights still dimmed at idle (even after i gave him my old kinetik battery as well) But at driving speeds they didnt dim at all.
Cheap alternators will not give you much power at idle, its just the way it is, but any alt company can give you more power, with higher rpms.
If i remember correctly my cousins was 60 at idle, and 140 max.
Mine is a Mechman alternator (wouldnt recommend buying one because the price is insane! i just got a good deal from a previous member) and is 135 at idle and 250 max. And my lights have never ever dimmed since. Just showing you get what you pay for.
But most any HO alt can handle a large demand at driving speeds. Just a matter of how reliable they are.

This post has been edited by mgnt232: Sep 9, 2010 - 4:19 PM