Enders swap, Update 11/29/19 |
Enders swap, Update 11/29/19 |
Aug 10, 2011 - 11:03 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 12, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
I'm ready This post has been edited by enderswift: Nov 29, 2019 - 6:58 PM -------------------- |
Oct 14, 2011 - 9:47 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 12, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Hey 6gc,
long time no update. I've been busy with school and that means no time to work on the 3s, or make money for that matter. I expect things to pick up during winter break though. Till then I'm gonna have to be happy with slowly taking the motor apart and taking care of the tedious parts of this project. anyway, current plans for the head involve a complete disassembly and tolerancing. I plan to check all of the specs and determine exactly what kind machining is required, and what parts have to be replaced. I plan to get the following done regardless of the condition of the head: -ultrasonic cleaning http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWs_8RyBLyo (hopefully someplace local offers it) -3 angle valve job -head deck Then, depending on the condition of the head I may also pay for this stuff: -Valve guide replacement -Misc parts replacement If theres one place to be OCD in a rebuild its in the head. Here are some photos I spent a lot of time thinking about how I'm going to keep everything safe and organized while I gather the funds for the master rebuild set and machine shop. I eventually came up with what you see here, its not complete haha. I promise its more elaborate than this I had a hard time with the belt tensioner since the fsm wasn't too clear on how to position the #1 idler pulley. They tell you to torque the pulley bolt to 61ft/lbs and to position the pulley in order to slip a 3 mm allen into the head. Thereby removing slack from the belt... not too detailed imo. I would appreciate it if someone could explain the proper procedure. I eventually ended up bracing the pulley with rubber before cutting the timing belt. It prevented the tensioner from extending violently at least. I also had some trouble removing the camshafts. The caps near the timing belt pulleys wouldn't separate from the head as I was loosening their fasteners. This resulted in the camshafts going crooked during removal. A few strikes with a rubber mallet freed them up, but I wish I caught that sooner. I don't think I damaged the head but its just annoying when you're taking care to do everything the right way. I was planning on taking the valves out right away, but my valve spring compressor doesn't go deep enough into the head. I'm going to have to borrow one from one of my buddies in the sae. I was surprised to see that the cylinders and pistons are all in great shape. You can still see the factory crosshatch on the walls Well thats it for this week. Hopefully next week will see me removing and measuring the valvetrain. After that I'll be checking out some of the shops people have been recommending to me. Stay tuned. This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 9:52 AM -------------------- |
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