Oil burning fast without oil leak |
Oil burning fast without oil leak |
Jul 21, 2011 - 12:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 30, '11 From Albany, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Well I've been using Valvoline 10W-30 Full synthetic and Mobil1 oil filter for about 2 changes now and I've noticed much better filtration from the filter but I'm not convinced that the oil is doing its job.
While getting oil for a change I decided to go with Mobil1 oil and filter, I'm hoping things run smoother and my oil doesn't burn as quickly (mind you it's been very very hot here the past few weeks). Is anyone else using both Mobil1 filter and oil? how has it been working out for you? -------------------- Power in Balance 90 ST coupe- Sold 95 ST hatch- Dead :’( 02 Impreza RS- DD |
Nov 15, 2011 - 5:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
my original motor in my 95 celi (7afe) had 130k on it when i had a lean oil condition cause a jernal on the crank to spin.. i had been auto crossing with the car and had some oil burnning but not much (but still getting worse as time went on), at my last auto cross i had done a full check (you would have to be crazy to race w/o doing so) so i know i was at my required 5 qt lvl. i dont remember but i think that last change was even with royal purple, (10w-30) and a few ounces of seafoam. this combo had alway given me great results. 3 weeks later is when the event occured. when i got home and checked my oil, i had only about 1qt in the pan. so in 3 weeks i had 4 qts burn off!!! i check all over there was no leak. i did not have any significant amout of blueish/black smoke comming out the tail pipe... all of the researched that pulled up suggested blow by the rings, bad valves seats or bad valve seals.. or any combination or all of these conditions. i do remember that after the car would be warm, that if i opened the fill cap fot the oil, that there would be a small amount of smoke to come from inside the head.
the motor that i am in the proccess of re-building right now (a 96 7afe) shows signs of ALOT of oil being burned off, the seals were in pretty bad shape and am going to have the valve seats recut and the valves cut to match. every single valve leaks. at 218k on it, it was definatly on its way out. the sheer amount of carbon/oil build up on the face of the pistons and valves .. WOW nasty.. it seems that the 7a has a bad issue w/ all of the sealing elements failing after a given period of time. and i find it odd that there are a few examples out there that do not suffer from said conditions. for this motor i will be doing a carful break-in period. once i see that the oil system is well presurised, and that all checks out, i plan to do the "drive it like you stole it" method for the first 10-15 min of actual opertation. (supposed to help quick seal the new piston rings) and then do a controlled alternating engine RPM for the remaining 15-20 min.. then change oil.. i am hopeing that carfule attention to the break in, and a few choice mods will help with the life of the motor, and reliability under low boost. (target of 8-10 lbs on a ct26) i will be logging all conditions that i can at intervals.. interested in what i will find. -------------------- |
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