7A-FE lack of power, After putting cams in right position car has less power in low RPMs |
7A-FE lack of power, After putting cams in right position car has less power in low RPMs |
Dec 23, 2011 - 8:11 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined May 31, '11 From Ljubljana, Slovenia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (50%) |
Hi, I changed water pump and timing belts yesterday, and when I removed the head gasket I saw that the timing mark on exhaus cam was not lined up with the arrow that marks where dot must be
^ Here is the image, taken from Smaays topic about building the 7A-FE , I hope that's not wrong. That is how the engine must be lined up with all marks on timing belt. But when I lined up the engine with other timing marks, the arrow and the mark on gear weren't lined up, but the dot on cam was leaned one gear to the left. I don't know if I am speaking in correct language So I'm giving you a picture of how it was (not the actual one) After pulling my cam out and inserting it in in the right position, I ended up with putting my timing belts on and everything together and the I ran the engine. I took nearly 5 seconds from turning the key to starting the engine which seems very wierd to me, because my car normally starts right after i turned the key and has an iddling RPMs when it was cold around 1800 and around 1150 when warm. I rotated a rotor cap for about 2° and now car idles at about 850RPMs which is normal and the (I don't know the right word for this, but direct translation is pre-ignition - you know, thoose marks on the plastic cap on timing belt that are from 0 to 20) raised from 0-5 on 10-15 and car gained some power, but it's still not strong as it was before changing the cam gear for one gear. I hope you guys undertand what am I asking about, before doing anything of this my car runs very strong in low RPMs and still strong in high RPMs which is normal. After changing the exhaust cam gear car barelly start cold, has high RPMs , "pre-ignition" was between 0 and 5 and car had literally no power till it reached 3k RPM, after 4k RPM you could feel the BUM when engine got the power. After rotating the rotor cap car got normal idling RPMs, it gained a little power at lower RPMs but still not strong as it was and the "pre-ignition" changed to 10-15. What else to check, or just put the engine back on how it was and if it's possible that engine had more power before with changed cam gear for one gear? Thank you guys!! -------------------- |
Dec 23, 2011 - 6:50 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined May 31, '11 From Rochester, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Why did you take the cam out and adjust it that way? Just curious as to why you didn't just rotate the cams before putting the belt on. If there is no tooth damage, the likelyhood of it "hopping a tooth" is very low without damage. Are there marks on both intake and exhaust cams and one was on but the other off?
-------------------- 1994 Toyota Celica GT-S 5S-FE 190k Miles. Project car 1992 Toyota Celica GT 5S-FE 170k Miles. Daily driver/beater 1999 Toyota Camry LE 5S-FE 216K Miles. RIP You will be missed. *ASE Certified General Manager |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: November 26th, 2024 - 8:14 PM |