6gc's resident detailer is in! post your questions here!, need some help detailing? ask here Options

[opie_7afe]

so ive been away from the forums focusing on my other passion at heart and that is detailing, not your run of the mill detailing most shops and car dealerships offer, im talking OCD perfectionist detailing, removing swirls/scratches,prepping cars for car shows ect. ect. ect. so basically if you need any help getting your celica to look its best ask me some questions!, if your local to me i will even teach you better methods to detail your car. if you need any suggestions on good products to use, ask me. if you want to know how to get rid of that oxidized finish on the single stage paints used on celicas post in this thread!. hope i can help you guys who really want their celica to look its best figure out the best methods of detailing, maybe i will start writing some detailing articles here.

This post has been edited by opie_7afe: Jan 24, 2012 - 5:15 PM

[opie_7afe]

to jasonTX, find out what methods they are using to buff the car, im betting almost 100% they are just goint to wetsand, buff with a wool pad and some rocks in a bottle 3m compound and then cover it with a glaze which will fill and hide the holograms/swirlmarks in the paint...which will be shown in a few weeks after a few washes, but thats besides the point and is expected with a new paint job in most cases. as far as protection best would be to find out what clear is being used, paint requires 30-120 days to cure(not as long for factory paint due to it being baked in an oven). so untill the paint is cured i would not use any wax, what most do is just use a glaze, key terms on the bottle to look for is "body shop safe" or "fresh paint safe" waxes/sealants can seal the pores in the paint up which is not good when it cures as it needs to breathe/finish outgassing the solvents used. so i would just leave it along untill the 30day minimum passes then you can wax with no problem, if you end up getting the typical bodyshop buff job im sure i can find you a competent detailer to remove the buffer trails/holograms after the paint is nice and cured. as most say prep of the paint is 95% of the look the other 5% is your wax/sealant. after your paint has cured a nice coat of some collinite 845 will be great, usually lasts 4-6 months, or you can break down and spend for 60$ get some opti-coat and never have to wax for atleast 5 years.

to culpable04, for smaller wheel sizes/bigger brake sizes best is to get a brush called a daytona brush, its black and red and is flexible, if the brake dust has never really been cleaned you might need to remove the wheels just this one time to get them fully cleaned, then protect the barrels with a sealant or even better opti-coat. this will prevent the brake dust from sticking, it really does take some time and is a pain to get done. good products to use is meguiars wheel bright(do not use on raw aluminum or andonized aluminum wheels), or carpro's iron-X. iron-x would probably be the best bet for the caked on brake dust as most of the dust is iron particles, the iron x uses ph balanced chemicals that react only with the iron and removing it from the wheels/paint. as i said if they are horrible you wont be able to really get them clean without removal of the wheels, if they are not that bad then you can use the daytona wheel brush and some wheel cleaner. wheel bright worked great for my steelies a nice soak and a stiffer brush got it right off with ease.yes i know back to black sucks bigtime, used it once and it ran. dont know why i even took a picture of it LOL. but yes not a good product.

This post has been edited by opie_7afe: Jan 26, 2012 - 3:43 PM