Randomly stopping (engine dies), gettin' mad Options

[kavo]

Well its been a long time since ive been on these forums (since I was a young dumb teenager looking to do sick mods )

anyway so my 6gc has been cutting out randomly with no warning. I will be driving along then the engine light comes on simultaneously as the engine cuts (all the other lights come on too) and I have to very quickly clutch to maintain as much momentum as possible and pull off the road. This has happened numerous places, on the way to gym, peak hour traffic and not even at the end of my driveway. THen I cannot start the car.

Sometimes I have just left it and came back several hours later and it starts fine, other times wriggle wires and itll run for 30 sec then wont for a few hours. Very frustrating as it has been a couple of weeks since it happened last, and when the car is running me and my dad (motor mech and diesel fitter by trade) cannot diagnose the problem.


Today when i was wriggling wires I pulled this plug, which has now disintegrated except for the actual connection. I will try and start it later but is this plug needed for the car to actually run?



anybody had similar problems with their car stopping like this? or knows what it is?

[Special_Edy]

He is having intermitten(spelling?) no combustion conditions, but the engine is running smooth most of the time. The spark plug wires, cap and rotor can almost be ruled out. They would cause a misfire condition, not a nofire condition.Also the compression can be totally ruled out. There is absolutely no way he is getting intermitten compression unless I'm a total idiot about engines.

The fuse to the fuel pump doesnt need to be checked, unless it is somehow growing back through some form of magic every time it blows itself(this is an intermitten problem)

The module and coil WILL cause intermitten failures, one is a giant Heatsink the other is usually oil filled. This is because they both get extremely hot and will often stop working id there is a fault until they cool down.

The fuel system is not its own independent system on toyotas, the blue and yellow wire from the distributor are actually what control the injectors. A failed ignition system on a toyota can potentially kill the fuel injection system.


If the voltage regulator was damaged, most likely it would give TOO much electricity which would cook the battery(it would vent all the electolyte) and cause the electronics on the car to go ape****(things will turn on by themselves, ie stereo and headlights). But a voltage regulator isnt as common as a failed diode(which introduces alternating current and once again cooks the battery and makes the electronics go ape****) and most commonly just failed windings on the alternator(in which case its as active as a brick). Anyway you look at it the 9 times out of ten the battery is bad or both not the alternator by itself.

[hatchy_gt-s]

He is having intermitten(spelling?) no combustion conditions, but the engine is running smooth most of the time. The spark plug wires, cap and rotor can almost be ruled out. They would cause a misfire condition, not a nofire condition.Also the compression can be totally ruled out. There is absolutely no way he is getting intermitten compression unless I'm a total idiot about engines.

The fuse to the fuel pump doesnt need to be checked, unless it is somehow growing back through some form of magic every time it blows itself(this is an intermitten problem)

The module and coil WILL cause intermitten failures, one is a giant Heatsink the other is usually oil filled. This is because they both get extremely hot and will often stop working id there is a fault until they cool down.

The fuel system is not its own independent system on toyotas, the blue and yellow wire from the distributor are actually what control the injectors. A failed ignition system on a toyota can potentially kill the fuel injection system.


If the voltage regulator was damaged, most likely it would give TOO much electricity which would cook the battery(it would vent all the electolyte) and cause the electronics on the car to go ape****(things will turn on by themselves, ie stereo and headlights). But a voltage regulator isnt as common as a failed diode(which introduces alternating current and once again cooks the battery and makes the electronics go ape****) and most commonly just failed windings on the alternator(in which case its as active as a brick). Anyway you look at it the 9 times out of ten the battery is bad or both not the alternator by itself.

Sorry Intermittent(You spells wrong 2) mine was auto txt.

I was just stating the steps on how to check a crank no start. I was giving him the tools to be able to diagnose this himself so that he could learn and not just do.

No, a bad voltage regulator would not cause an over voltage as ANY manufacture would have safety features to do the exact opposite.

The blue and yellow wire do NOT control the injectors but are an additional signal that tells the computer what cylinder its on as injectors fire before spark not during or after, same can be said about the crank/cam position they only inform the computer on where the engine is.

If it was an over heating issue he would see it happen after X amount of time but he isnt its happening at totally random times from long drives to not even out of the drive way, which reduces it to a short to ground issue.

God I feel like I'm in a ASE Tech A/Tech B senario