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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) ![]() |
I was going to do a how-to but was too caught up with just getting this done, I only snapped a couple of pics at the end.
Me, Manny, and Stef knocked this out pretty easy. I ordered some front suspension bushings from Paul in Poland here's a pic of the control arm ![]() (taken from this post) I went from this bushing ![]() to this bushing ![]() and the other ![]() I know the pics I took kinda suck (they're a little messy from the grease too) but I was more concerned about feeling the difference driving with them and then eating. I have to say after launching a few times on the ride home I can really feel the difference with keeping the wheels on the ground. They really help to reduce wheel hop and it feels great. The other thing I wicked noticed was how much tighter the front end feels during turns. They keep the front end of the car much more level to the ground and cornering is so much more controled, it's amazing. also, ride quality was not compromised at all, which I was a bit concrened about. The entire process took a few hours and air tools made it much easier ![]() This post has been edited by Batman722: Jun 30, 2009 - 8:22 AM -------------------- |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) ![]() |
yup, the fronts are ~ 140$. gotta pay to play when there is no market for the car.
you'll need an alignment, yes. the new bushings will throw your alignment off. seperating the balljoint from the a-arm is easy, 2 nuts and a bolt and it seperates pretty easy. the arm dont just drop straight out, it takes some work, im sure dustin will go into a little better detail as to why. the basics of it is the rear a-arm bolt has a sleeve that helps hold it in place, (they are a replace when you do it part) that you may need to mess with some to get out. dustins were pretty rusted and whatnot, so we were able to work the arm out with the sleeve still in place. with a set of torches, you could burn them out pretty easy, but since i dont have a torch set here at the garage, we used a propane torch, and heated up the metal around the bushing to loosen it from the metal, then pounded them out with a 2lb sledge. we pressed the new ones in pretty easily in my bench vice. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
![]() 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) ![]() |
the basics of it is the rear a-arm bolt has a sleeve that helps hold it in place, (they are a replace when you do it part) that you may need to mess with some to get out. dustins were pretty rusted and whatnot, so we were able to work the arm out with the sleeve still in place. I'm getting ready to replace my front bushings and I'm just trying to make sure I have everything I need before I get started. ![]() In this diagram, is the sleeve part #90389‑21003? -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
![]() 2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
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