Clutch Master Cylinder, Which one is it? |
Clutch Master Cylinder, Which one is it? |
Feb 14, 2012 - 5:47 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 2, '05 From Guam Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
Are there two types of clutch master cylinders for my 94 2.2L Celica GT? I converted my car to manual back in 2009 and my generic clutch master brand is about to give out. I'm running 3sgte light flywheel and clutch from Competition Clutch. sometimes it gets stuck and i have to pick it up by hand and pump it, fluid is slightly lower than full, and fluid is hella dirty, looks like an internal seal leak to me. Plan to buy an OEM one. I've seen online on toyota sites - two kinds of masters though, 1 that goes up with a long neck reservoir (i have this type) and the other one looks like a typical one with a long cylinder and stubby reservoir. I cannot just put my VIN in because my VIN is for automatic. so when I use toyodiy for the part number i get the stubby one on the toyota site, I want to be sure what I'm getting because I do not know for sure if thats just an illustration because i have the longer neck type. BTW, I've also seen the stubby ones as well for sale so thats why i think there are two.
Are there any performance clutch master cylinder and slave for our cars? This post has been edited by trdproven: Feb 14, 2012 - 5:49 PM -------------------- 94 Celica GT
|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi| |Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto| |Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr8 04 Celica GT |Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy| |
Sep 1, 2012 - 1:08 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
which way is better to bleed the slave cylinder. I currently have no leaks on the master or slave cylinder. Also when you adjust the push rod on the master cylinder so that you have more play, are you supposed to unbolt the master from the firewall, or can you leave it mounted to the firewall and push the rod on the master about 45 degree's in order to adjust it as far back as possible??
here are the two options i know to do with the help of a friend : pump 3 times and then on the 3rd pump hold the clutch pedal down, open the bleeder valve (look for any air bubbles), close the bleeder and lift the clutch pedal slowly. Repeat until stiffer pedal i've also seen where you fill a resevoir with a bit of brake fluid, until you can submerge a clear line going to the bottom of the resevoir. i'm not sure what else you do after this -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
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Sep 1, 2012 - 8:05 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 2, '05 From Guam Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
which way is better to bleed the slave cylinder. I currently have no leaks on the master or slave cylinder. Also when you adjust the push rod on the master cylinder so that you have more play, are you supposed to unbolt the master from the firewall, or can you leave it mounted to the firewall and push the rod on the master about 45 degree's in order to adjust it as far back as possible?? here are the two options i know to do with the help of a friend : pump 3 times and then on the 3rd pump hold the clutch pedal down, open the bleeder valve (look for any air bubbles), close the bleeder and lift the clutch pedal slowly. Repeat until stiffer pedal i've also seen where you fill a resevoir with a bit of brake fluid, until you can submerge a clear line going to the bottom of the resevoir. i'm not sure what else you do after this well there is the manual type which is pump and release the bleeder screw, there is a hand pump, or the 1 person bleed method which is sometimes hard to do where you get a clear hose and submerge it in a good amount of fluid in a bottle, then when you pump you can see it bubble in the fluid, thats air, dont like that method too much some people use it because when you use the 1 person method it tends to suck back the fluid, the submerged part is so it does not suck back air, sometimes you also gotta run to the bleeder as fast as you can but necessarily, depends. you are supposed to be able to adjust the rod while its already mounted but if you cant you may have to take it out but in my experience never had to unmount the master, you should be able to do it under the dash. youre actually supposed to match the rod reach as with the old one as much as you can before you install it like meaning side by side. you are supposed to have it at a proper length, i think there is a true way to do it like in a manual but you can basically wing it, and youre not supposed to extend it all the way. the 1st one you mentioned, that is the most basic backyard method, which i use normally, but its not bleed until a stiffer pedal, its until the bleeding of fluid has no more bubbles, like a solid flow, like not spitting. Good Luck! -------------------- 94 Celica GT
|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi| |Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto| |Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr8 04 Celica GT |Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy| |
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