FS: MI, 1994 Celica GT Coupe, 5 SPD, Needs Motor Work, Asking $900, Entertaining Offers. MI 48335 Options

[cwatson]

Hey all,

Always been a lurker and guess this not the best first post. I have posts at celicatech and rx8club under the same username if you'd like to check.

Craigslist link: http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/3067234166.html

Location: MI 48335

Summary:
For sale is a Red 1994 Toyota Celica GT 5 SPD (Manual). 2.2L I4 5SFE Motor (Same as Camry). 17X,XXX miles. Last measured at 28 MPG with a leaking head gasket. Clean title. Located in Michigan, but currently titled and registered in Maryland. The car starts and runs, but is not driveable. You will need to bring a tow truck, trailer, or dolly. I am happy to help load the car. Fix her up and drive it or just use it as a parts car.

Parts are plentiful and dirt cheap - would be a good summer project for a high school or college student. A mechanic would have it working in a weekend.

Asking $900, Entertaining Offers.

The Problem:
I suspect the motor problem is a bad head gasket. I do not have the patience to replace it again. I replaced the head gasket earlier this year, after which the car ran great for a short time. It then skipped timing (I, stupidly, did not put in a new belt or tensioner spring), overheated, and spun a bearing. I checked the bearing clearances and round and have replaced the rod bearings. The motor oil has been flushed and replaced with a new filter. The timing belt and tensioner spring have been replaced. There is no rod knock and it does not overheat at idle, but the car is showing symptoms of a bad head gasket. Having been in both ends of the motor, I would think it could be rebuilt but, frankly, these motors are plentiful, cheap, and not too hard to replace -- I would just go down that route.

Parts that could stand to be replaced:
Rear motor mount is pretty bad; moderately easy to replace with the car on jack stands.
Passenger side mirror glass is cracked; $40 on ebay for a new mirror.
Head unit face-plate was stolen when I left the car unlocked.
Small exhaust leak in flex-pipe

Recently replaced and new parts:
Duralast Battery
Radiator
Water Pump
All top end seals
Rod bearings
Head Gasket (suspected bad)
Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor (~5,000 Miles)
Front CV Axle (~20,000 Miles)
Clutch (~25,000 Miles)

Parts tested and verified good:
Igniter and ignition coil
Starter
Alternator

Chassis
Chassis, steering, and suspension are in good working order
I estimate ~30% life left on tires and brake pads

Body/Exterior
Body and paint are in decent shape
Front and rear fenders are slightly off from when roommate bumped the car into the garage
Some rust in the rear fender/wheel well area. No rust anywhere else.
Small dents and dings as expected on any 20 year old car, one larger dent on the left rear fender
Nickel-sized chip in front windshield, got quoted $75 on it once.
All lights are in good, functioning order
Trunk doesn't 'pop' up anymore but easy to open with the key

Interior
All electronics, dash, windows, sunroof, and HVAC are in good working order
Rip in cloth on left side of driver's seat. All others are good/clean.
Shifter boot could stand to be replaced

Contact:
I have described the vehicle accurately and completely but am happy to provide more detail or pictures. Send an PM or email with your questions and contact information and I will reply/call promptly. I check email multiple times a day.

I am considering all reasonable offers. I may choose to continue working on the car so get it now before its worth twice as much. That said, if you're interested in the car with a working motor send me an offer and I may consider fixing it.

Cash or certified check at major bank.

Cheers!






This post has been edited by cwatson: Jun 19, 2012 - 6:55 PM

[cwatson]

Duke,
See PMs.

Rust is through in spots on rear inner fender lip. Rusted there before I bought the car. The rest of the body and chassis superstructure is fine last I checked.