precautions in replacing 5sfe manual trans., manual transmission swap Options

[reliqhunter]

Hey guys I'm a new member on here but not new to the site, I bought a crappy 95 GT to
Learn how to drive a standard in everyday traffic. I wound up falling in love with it and now
I'm trying to fix it up, hopefully into a GT4 swap later on when I get more experience and money...
My transmission went out on it after almost 20,000 miles after I bought it, and I bought another transmission that only had 110k on it and I'm going to start the swap after I buy a new clutch and seals for it. Is there any tricky parts I need to watch out for before I jump into it? Any feedback or tips would be greatly appriciated!

[travisxcore]

I'm almost done with my swap. All I gotta do is put in the passenger axel, the plastic skid covers, and put the interior back together and I'm good to go.

Getting the hub and all that off and out of the way was easy...well actually that's a lie. The bolt holding the hub onto the axel on the passenger side was torqued at like 300lbs. 2 people and a 3ft pole and we barely got it.

Back to the drive axel though, its a tough one. You need a long enough pry bar and you have to take off the dust flap (not the dust boot on the axel). Then stick the pry bar down into the bay and put it in the convenient slot on the drive axel. Then take another smaller pry bar and put it on slot on the bottom and go to town with both of them.

Pro tip: When you have the motor floating, DO NOT move it no matter how much more convenient it makes it to get the trans out. It will get in a bind. Mine was in so bad of a bind it broke the EGR vacuum valve and my serpentine belt got shredded when I was trying to get the motor to line back up.

[Special_Edy]

I'm almost done with my swap. All I gotta do is put in the passenger axel, the plastic skid covers, and put the interior back together and I'm good to go.

Getting the hub and all that off and out of the way was easy...well actually that's a lie. The bolt holding the hub onto the axel on the passenger side was torqued at like 300lbs. 2 people and a 3ft pole and we barely got it.

Back to the drive axel though, its a tough one. You need a long enough pry bar and you have to take off the dust flap (not the dust boot on the axel). Then stick the pry bar down into the bay and put it in the convenient slot on the drive axel. Then take another smaller pry bar and put it on slot on the bottom and go to town with both of them.

Pro tip: When you have the motor floating, DO NOT move it no matter how much more convenient it makes it to get the trans out. It will get in a bind. Mine was in so bad of a bind it broke the EGR vacuum valve and my serpentine belt got shredded when I was trying to get the motor to line back up.

Next time, jack the motor/trans upwards, then place a 2x4 or suitable object over the engine. Now tie a rope or use a ratcheting strap around the engine and the 2x4. Lower the engine slowly and the 2x4 and strap/rope will support the weight of the engine.
Be sure the 2x4 is on the strut towers or some other structurally sound place.