not building boost, am i missing something? |
not building boost, am i missing something? |
Apr 28, 2012 - 2:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 1, '05 From Charlotte NC Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
Hi all, was wondering if i can get some feedback on something i was missing. here's the story:
recently a friend and I fixed a leak due to stripped thread in the head causing a leak between the exhaust manifold and block. after rethreading and putting everything back togehter leak is gone BUT now im seeing much lower boost numbers after taking it for a drive. I own an AEM tru boost controler/gauge and the boost is currently set to stock wastegate pressure (8psi) and consistently held this pressure PRIOR to fixing the exhaust leak. as of today, my first drive out, my car would not pull past 5psi and touched 6psi BRIEFLY. I double checked my IC piping and adjusted and retightened. when i went back out the car would only boost up to 4-5 psi adn sometimes as low as 2-3 max. Im pretty sure its a leak somewhere but it can only be one place as the only IC piping that was removed was the piping coming from the turbo (charge side) i have checked and double checked it. is there something im missing? any helpful hints would be appreciated! thanks! -------------------- |
Dec 6, 2012 - 3:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
is it electric or mechanical? if its electric, it need to be hooked up to 12V that does not turn off when you turn the key to start.
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 1, '05 From Charlotte NC Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
is it electric or mechanical? if its electric, it need to be hooked up to 12V that does not turn off when you turn the key to start. its electric. you mean dosent turn off when the car is turned on? or when it the key is turned on to the ACC stage? -------------------- |
Dec 10, 2012 - 6:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
is it electric or mechanical? if its electric, it need to be hooked up to 12V that does not turn off when you turn the key to start. its electric. you mean dosent turn off when the car is turned on? or when it the key is turned on to the ACC stage? no when you turn the key to START 90% of your electronics shut off. you need to find a source that does NOT turn OFF when you turn the key to START -------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Dec 11, 2012 - 3:21 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 1, '05 From Charlotte NC Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
is it electric or mechanical? if its electric, it need to be hooked up to 12V that does not turn off when you turn the key to start. its electric. you mean dosent turn off when the car is turned on? or when it the key is turned on to the ACC stage? no when you turn the key to START 90% of your electronics shut off. you need to find a source that does NOT turn OFF when you turn the key to START ah ok it stays on BUT guess what? Leak found on hot side (right after turbo and a smaller one found on cold side (not too far before the BOV) Cant believe after testing, re testing taking off, readjusting etc. etc. it was here... where I started my search.... IDK why the previous tests didnt show the leak coming from here but Im hoping this is the cause of my trouble. I re adjusted the piping again, and noticed that my car drove at -2 in vac this time instead of -5 or -6 but eventually it went back to -6. I will be getting as much piping welded as I can when my pal gets another welding machine. I dont want to get my hopes up though.... This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Dec 11, 2012 - 3:21 AM -------------------- |
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