Car sputtering Options

[ian0490]

Well heres the low down.... I have a 94 Celica GT. About 2 months ago it starting giving me trouble with starting up. Usually it would be after work on a hot day and when I was low on gas. In the morning it would crank up fine. So I replaced the Fuel Filter. Seemed to work fine for a while then the trouble would start up again. So I went to the Fuel Pump and changed that out. Now it starts up fine but its jerking like a misfire (changed the spark plugs about 4 months ago so I know its not that) when I drive it and actually made the check engine light come on. Questions: Could it be the strainer on the fuel pump as I put the old one back on the new Pump? Or is this a new problem??

[rapidfire]

have same problem right now, change sparks, wires, fuel pump, rotor, distributor cap, even head gasket changed.. and same issue.. now i will take out and clean the egr valve, if i have that solved, i will post it.

[Galcobar]

First step would be to see what code the engine is trying to get you to read -- the CEL illuminates when it has something to tell you.

[Box]

And here's how: http://www.6gc.net/howto/determine_check_engine_light_codes

[rapidfire]

And here's how: http://www.6gc.net/howto/determine_check_engine_light_codes

Same problem, now i changed the ECU, injectors cleaned, timing check, and the car still running like if there were a spark faulty, iam thinking if i change the distributor will fix it? or how can i check if the distributor is working or not??

thank you!!

[Box]

Usually if something is off with the distributor it'll throw code 12? pretty sure that's the one, regardless it should throw a code. That or if you take off the cap and it looks like copper spaghetti, you have a problem. A sure fire way(pun not intended) of knowing is to check for spark with a plug touching the manifold at night. Spark is really easy to see, and do it for each point.

This post has been edited by Box: Nov 24, 2013 - 10:41 PM

[rapidfire]

Usually if something is off with the distributor it'll throw code 12? pretty sure that's the one, regardless it should throw a code. That or if you take off the cap and it looks like copper spaghetti, you have a problem. A sure fire way(pun not intended) of knowing is to check for spark with a plug touching the manifold at night. Spark is really easy to see, and do it for each point.

The cap was changed aroun 1 month ago, the code was fot the EGR valve, i already chaged it, and a lot of more stuff.

now, what i saw today was that the mechanic just damage the inlet to the engine spark plug now, i think that should be a problem because that spark plug didnt get enough deep like the others, can be that the cause of the problem?? before that damage, the car had the same problem.

sorry for my english

This post has been edited by rapidfire: Nov 25, 2013 - 8:47 PM

[Box]

That could cause a problem, having the spark too far away. Being the problem was there before though... Hmm, perhaps the ignition coil. If you have a voltmeter or multimeter you can get a read out and see exactly what's going on.

[blackliftback]

Check efi relay.

[rapidfire]

Check efi relay.

UPDATE: finally fixed... the probem was 2 bad injectors, first and fourth ... now the car its better, but the only problem is... the car runs too slow and when it goes on 20, 30 40, 50, 60 miles ... it shakes, and it take too long time to reach 60 miles. after 60 miles, the car runs fine, and on idle, the rmp are near 2000

[Box]

Could be a vacuum leak causing the high idle and leaning out the mixture too much causing it to run so weak.