Major Car problems, help needed :(, Car engine died... Options

[rentaspace]

Well, started last night, had just finished a National Park Run (Windy roads), I didn't push her too hard since I had GF and her sister in the car. Drove approximately 110km. Got back to my mates house, turned the car off, went inside for about 10minutes and then got back into the car to go off to his GFs house (approx 20km away).
As I was driving around a small roundabout, the engine died... Turned straight off, and I coasted her to the side of the road, where she wouldn't start again... CEL was also brightly illuminated. The starter motor clicked but the engine would not turn over...
I called my roadside assistance and got them dispatched. Using a hammer on the starter motor, I got the car to turn over, run for 10seconds and then die again...
Roadside assistance arrived twenty minutes later, and the car started, but had a really strange noise coming from under the black covers at the front of the engine. (kinda like a clicking/grinding noise).
I decided that I did not want to drive it on the highway with the possibility that the engine could just cutout, so I decided to get it towed to the destination we were heading (I get 8km free towing per job/problem):



The driver complemented my car and said it's the nicest celica he has ever seen, which was nice
Anyway, slowly backed her off the truck at the destination and once back on the ground, started the car and moved it to the parking area... We went inside and I went to bed cause I was pissed off haha.

Next morning, woke up and my dad had arrived to inspect the car. Everything looked fine, the car started first go and sounded normal... Alright, so we drove her from Engadine to Barden Ridge where I live, she drove fine, no weird noises or sounds and held power as usual. Drive into my driveway and pop the hood, I can hear the weird noise again from the same place...
Turn the key off, and back on and she won't start again... I also noticed that now today when it died, every Warning light illuminated (exactly the same as the test when starting the car)
So it seems, when the car is up to normal temperature it won't work, but when cold it's fine...
So far, the roadside assistance checked the battery and plugs and leads. He couldn't run a diagnostics as the CEL had gone off before he arrived...
Any Ideas what could cause an intermittent issue like this? (I have been told to check the fuel pump, but I do not think this is the cause)
Any help would be greatly appreciated...

[eMrock32]

As far as the noise, that's a Tuffy. If the car runs and drives fine when cold then I wouldn't suspect timing. However the belt could be out of place and grinding on the covers if it is old.

You need to run through eliminations. If the car starts and runs fine when cold, I'd look at a crank sensor. When they go bad in some cases, they heat up and expand and are unable to read when they need to send spark to the cylinder.

It sounds like a sensor is controlling this so it will be extremely tricky to Diag without seeing it, but I'll try to help. Best thing you can do is try to find someone with an advanced scanner that will tell you more than codes. Unfortunately you have a obd1 car (if its the 94) and it won't store any codes. If you can read a code when it does die (Dont turn the key off), then that will help.

Other than that, I Dont think it would be electrical if everything in the car continued to run.

You can do a few small tests yourself to hopefully pinpoint where tje problem is coming from. Get a cheap spark tester to see if you have spark after it dies. You can also have a friend lay down next to the car and see if you have a fuel pump prime when you turn the key (also after it dies). Should sound strong and healthy, not like a rc car bound in carpet. (Best way to explain it lol).

[rentaspace]

As far as the noise, that's a Tuffy. If the car runs and drives fine when cold then I wouldn't suspect timing. However the belt could be out of place and grinding on the covers if it is old.

You need to run through eliminations. If the car starts and runs fine when cold, I'd look at a crank sensor. When they go bad in some cases, they heat up and expand and are unable to read when they need to send spark to the cylinder.

It sounds like a sensor is controlling this so it will be extremely tricky to Diag without seeing it, but I'll try to help. Best thing you can do is try to find someone with an advanced scanner that will tell you more than codes. Unfortunately you have a obd1 car (if its the 94) and it won't store any codes. If you can read a code when it does die (Dont turn the key off), then that will help.

Other than that, I Dont think it would be electrical if everything in the car continued to run.

You can do a few small tests yourself to hopefully pinpoint where tje problem is coming from. Get a cheap spark tester to see if you have spark after it dies. You can also have a friend lay down next to the car and see if you have a fuel pump prime when you turn the key (also after it dies). Should sound strong and healthy, not like a rc car bound in carpet. (Best way to explain it lol).

We are going to take the car up to an auto-electrician tomorrow and see if he can pinpoint a sensor, We also have a spark tester laying around somewhere so I will go and try and find that and report back if it has spark or not...
I can hear the fuel pump prime from inside the car, so that is pretty much ruled out...

[eMrock32]

Well things to check for if fuel pump sounds good: pretty sure they Dont have a maf, dizzy coil, crank sensor, sometimes can sensor, ignitor, map sensor, and pretty sure that's its for not being able to start at all. The rest should start the car even when failing.

[Special_Edy]

The most important bit of information to me is that you said the engine wont turn over. Is this every time it dies, or does it crank without firing?

The AM2 fuse and adjoining circuit would be the only culprit I can think of that would-
A) cause the motor to die
B) not allow the starter to crank over
C) everything else electronic works

**Other than mechanical failure which seems unlikely since the issue is intermittent

I would also highly suggest a thorough inspection of the battery connections and ground wires.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Mar 8, 2014 - 9:37 PM

[Bitter]

So when it won't start it's a no crank no start, correct? And it will click/clunk once with each time you turn the ignition to 'start', correct?

[rentaspace]

When it doesn't start the starter motor cranks but the engine does not fire.

[njccmd2002]

it could be so simple as a fuse, wires, to more complicated as sensors, or maybe disdributor to even a short in the ECU. intermittent is a good thing. but if you have an auto tech looking at, just be patient, and wait to see his opinion.

[Batman722]

check the codes.
My quick guess is the distributor is going.

[rentaspace]

check the codes.
My quick guess is the distributor is going.

This is my thought too...
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
So far we have tried:
- checking air intake for debris
- hearing fuel pump prime
- looking at plugs and leads
- checking all fuses and relays

We are going to get everything rechecked with the auto electrician (tomorrow now, he was busy today).
Going to get the igniter and dizzy checked (might even swap the igniter with the 5gc and see what happen)



Today the car has been running fine and hasn't stalled or died... About to drive again so we shall see...

This post has been edited by rentaspace: Mar 9, 2014 - 8:28 PM

[njccmd2002]

dirty fuel? check that too. sometimes there could be water..

[rentaspace]

Just tried to start again after 5km trip:
Not starting again ...

dirty fuel? check that too. sometimes there could be water..

How do I check this?
I am at my GFs ATM with limited tools

[Special_Edy]

Just tried to start again after 5km trip:
Not starting again ...

dirty fuel? check that too. sometimes there could be water..

How do I check this?
I am at my GFs ATM with limited tools

Check the primary and secondary resistance on the coil, that would be the first check I would make. All you need is a multimeter and to remove the distributor cap. If you tell me whether you have the 5SFE or 7AFE I can tell you the proper specs for resistance and more detailed instructions on how to check this.

You could also try carrying a can of Starting Fluid; next time the car wont start spray a small amount in the intake. If the car will start and run on starting fluid then you arent getting any fuel, if it still doesnt want to start then you arent getting ignition. This test eliminates 50% of the potential causes.

[rentaspace]

Just tried to start again after 5km trip:
Not starting again ...

dirty fuel? check that too. sometimes there could be water..

How do I check this?
I am at my GFs ATM with limited tools

Check the primary and secondary resistance on the coil, that would be the first check I would make. All you need is a multimeter and to remove the distributor cap. If you tell me whether you have the 5SFE or 7AFE I can tell you the proper specs for resistance and more detailed instructions on how to check this.

You could also try carrying a can of Starting Fluid; next time the car wont start spray a small amount in the intake. If the car will start and run on starting fluid then you arent getting any fuel, if it still doesnt want to start then you arent getting ignition. This test eliminates 50% of the potential causes.

At the moment I don't even have the tools to do this test...
I am running a 5sfe, the 7a wasn't sold here.
Just waiting ATM for the engine to cool so I can drove home >.<

[rentaspace]

Will an ST184 Distributor fit an ST204?

[jordisonjr]

When it does run, is it really jerky/hoppy, almost as if someone is learning to drive standard and cant shift properly?
Whne my distributor went out this was a common problem. and it also had a CEL

First thing you should do is check that, whether you have to run a scanner (OBD II) or do the paper clip trick and search for the code meaning (OBD I) that'll probably be your best bet for starters

[rentaspace]

When it does run, is it really jerky/hoppy, almost as if someone is learning to drive standard and cant shift properly?
Whne my distributor went out this was a common problem. and it also had a CEL

First thing you should do is check that, whether you have to run a scanner (OBD II) or do the paper clip trick and search for the code meaning (OBD I) that'll probably be your best bet for starters

When it works, it's perfect...
But I just went back up the street two hours later to where it's broken down, and it won't start again...

[rentaspace]

Well, just got her home (finally), took the dizzy cap off and liquid came pouring out...






so tomorrow, I am getting new dizzy parts...


The plastic that holds the rotor securely is also broken...

This post has been edited by rentaspace: Mar 10, 2014 - 2:42 AM

[englishdas]

Is that similar to hairline cracks or air getting into the Distro, but on a much grander scale? At least it's an obvious problem. Nice though that these things are so simple there's only so many things it can be. New Distro comes with cap seal/gasket, right?

Hope it fixes it, that's one mega looking car, mate.

[rentaspace]

Thanks man,
the car is currently at the auto electrician since I have limited electrical experience...
Hopefully it won't be too much and will be fixed soon...