Tigawoods' 1995 Celica, Racing n Stuff Options

[mkernz22]

nope. super thin and holey FW

That's a flywheel for an auto... as you can see there's no spots for the pressure plate to bolt to...

Isn't there a way to convert the 2GR to have a cable?

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Apr 24, 2014 - 1:36 PM

[Box]

What you really want is the 2GR-FZE out of this:


345hp and 295ft lb, and it had the option of a manual. Still pesky DWB, but where's there's a will there's a way. Besides you just stripped a Lotus Evora for it's powertain, are you going to let such trite things get in your way now?

[mkernz22]

What you really want is the 2GR-FZE out of this:


345hp and 295ft lb, and it had the option of a manual. Still pesky DWB, but where's there's a will there's a way. Besides you just stripped a Lotus Evora for it's powertain, are you going to let such trite things get in your way now?

Just go stand-alone for the ECU and get a Cable TB on that b!tch (probably has to be made, but it's not like anyone can't haha).

[JoshuaM]

the fly by wire part kills me


that flywheel....much lightness

TRD Aurion.... those things were just crazy

That would be a cool swap... but honestly I think that engine would completely destroy the balance of the car.... the Aurion couldn't really handle it and it was a good few hundred pounds heavier and wasn't being raced

EDIT: Unless AWD swap.... That would be EPIC!!!!!

This post has been edited by JoshuaM: Apr 24, 2014 - 3:25 PM

[Tigawoods]

weight is the biggest concern with the whole swapness monsta.

The lightest power option would probably be to turbo/supercharge a 5s or 7a hahaha

[JoshuaM]

weight is the biggest concern with the whole swapness monsta.

The lightest power option would probably be to turbo/supercharge a 5s or 7a hahaha

No torque... but supercharged 2ZZ-GE swap would probably be a very light way of upping the power. But that is certainly something you would need a garage and a lot of down-time to attempt

[Box]

The 1MZ and 2GR weigh less than the cast iron anchor that's currently there. Cast iron is a heavy bitch.

[Tigawoods]

2GR-FE 369 Lbs
2GR-FSE 399 Lbs
3VZ-FE 469 Lbs
1MZ-FE 401 Lbs
3S-GTE 463 Lbs
5S-FE 385 Lbs

thats the service weight list thats been floating around MR2OC for a while.

1MZ is a bit heavier. But the 2GR...Id be up to the 5SFE weight after adding that S/C haha



I am being talked out of the 272 Cams from a few knowledgeable members on MR2OC

[Box]

Ah, so 16 pounds heavier on the 1MZ. AGM battery will balance that out.

Yeah, once you get to a certain point you have to replace the valve-springs and everything and then cost exceeds gains and all the jazz. That and eventually it just isn't street-able anymore. Shave the head to raise compression along with using the group buy cams. Every point increase in compression ratio is 2-3% gain in power. Should get you into ITR territory but with torque.

[Tigawoods]

I had no problem with replacing the valve springs and other odds and ends but I wouldnt see much return from it until I actually, like you said started shaving, porting, blah blah blah. It was suggested to me that I COULD forego the SAFC and go all out with Megasquirt and get the full benefit from the 294's, Id love to learn with a DIY ecu.

[Box]

Hmm, go for it. I'm interested in seeing what all can be pushed out of the 5S, within reason. If you can get it into BEAMS territory power-wise, but with torque and at the fraction of the cost of swapping it might be something for people to consider more often. Main thing is keep it to where it drives like a car and not a bronco on the street.

[Tigawoods]

I like the idea of being able to control the inner workings of the ECU. I could probably get more out of both the bottom and top end of the power band, more so than the SAFC has been able to give me.

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 25, 2014 - 2:18 PM

[Box]

Plus let's be honest, tinkering with data is just fun.

[cjpost]

Ive been thinking about doing some ecu tuning for when I get these 294 cams as well.

Does anyone have any clue where I should look to get started with that? If I can do it myself I would like to but I would also like to know what sort of shops would do ecu work.

[Tigawoods]

The easiest way would be to get an SAFC2. Youd be able to tune it yourself no problem. I could give you some tips if need be

[playr158]

Megasquirt!

[lagos]

Mike, hand Manny, Dustin and Steph some cash and have them do a beams swap for you. I think you would really like it.
Doing a bunch of head mods, swapping in bigger injectors, and using an safc to tune all of that is not going to give you great results. I think in the end you would be much happier with a factory performance engine.

They could bang a beams swap out for you in one weekend.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 25, 2014 - 10:43 PM

[Syaoran]

Some insight from a Megasquirt-III user: you'll need some more complicated stuff to make it work perfectly. However, it CAN work flawlessly.

lagos is the only other member using a Megasquirt unit, but his is the DIYPNP and his engine is a 3S-GTE, making his situation a tad bit different than installing one in a 5S-FE.

Yours is a 1995 so it's pretty close to what I started with. My recommendations would be the following:

1. Get a 1998+ Camry 5S-FE head. They have a provision for a cam sensor, which is VERY VERY convenient to have instead of having to use the distributor as a cam sensor. You'll need the cam sprocket that has the tooth on it, and either modify your upper timing metal cover or get the one for that head.

2. Get a 1998+ Camry 5S-FE oil pump (it's higher volume than stock) that has the provision for the crank sensor, shim it using your stock valve relief spring seat or a washer of similar thickness (1mm or so), and get the 1998+ crank timing gear as well.

With all that, you'll have a functional 36-2 tooth crank trigger and a single tooth cam trigger setup that the Megasquirt will love. You'll also have an extra set of cams to send in for weld and re-grind.

If all the crank trigger stuff sounds like Chinese to you (it did to me at first) you better start asking and start searching so you'll learn before diving into a Megasquirt project. These things are very complex and it's really easy to make a mistake with them. It's a more bare-bones ECU when compared to pricier units, but it can achieve the same of not better level of performance of those more pricey units with proper installation/setting up.

EDIT: I would listen to lagos, I think an engine swap is due for you, especially since the nature of the BEAMS engine suits your use very well. A set of cams will get you 30whp with a tune at the most, and you'd still be under BEAMS whp.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Apr 25, 2014 - 10:54 PM

[cjpost]

The easiest way would be to get an SAFC2. Youd be able to tune it yourself no problem. I could give you some tips if need be

How expensive would that be? Is it worth it in terms of added horsepower and engine health?

[Tigawoods]

Mike, hand Manny, Dustin and Steph some cash and have them do a beams swap for you. I think you would really like it.
Doing a bunch of head mods, swapping in bigger injectors, and using an safc to tune all of that is not going to give you great results. I think in the end you would be much happier with a factory performance engine.

They could bang a beams swap out for you in one weekend.

Some insight from a Megasquirt-III user: you'll need some more complicated stuff to make it work perfectly. However, it CAN work flawlessly.

lagos is the only other member using a Megasquirt unit, but his is the DIYPNP and his engine is a 3S-GTE, making his situation a tad bit different than installing one in a 5S-FE.

Yours is a 1995 so it's pretty close to what I started with. My recommendations would be the following:

1. Get a 1998+ Camry 5S-FE head. They have a provision for a cam sensor, which is VERY VERY convenient to have instead of having to use the distributor as a cam sensor. You'll need the cam sprocket that has the tooth on it, and either modify your upper timing metal cover or get the one for that head.

2. Get a 1998+ Camry 5S-FE oil pump (it's higher volume than stock) that has the provision for the crank sensor, shim it using your stock valve relief spring seat or a washer of similar thickness (1mm or so), and get the 1998+ crank timing gear as well.

With all that, you'll have a functional 36-2 tooth crank trigger and a single tooth cam trigger setup that the Megasquirt will love. You'll also have an extra set of cams to send in for weld and re-grind.

If all the crank trigger stuff sounds like Chinese to you (it did to me at first) you better start asking and start searching so you'll learn before diving into a Megasquirt project. These things are very complex and it's really easy to make a mistake with them. It's a more bare-bones ECU when compared to pricier units, but it can achieve the same of not better level of performance of those more pricey units with proper installation/setting up.

EDIT: I would listen to lagos, I think an engine swap is due for you, especially since the nature of the BEAMS engine suits your use very well. A set of cams will get you 30whp with a tune at the most, and you'd still be under BEAMS whp.

Despite how obvious of a swap the BEAMS would be for me, the lack of availability of spare parts steers me away from it (although I know Dustin would disagree seeing as he is a Black Card holder for the BEAMS owners group and can find any part in a millisecond heh heh ) , along with the low aftermarket support for it. The lure of a factory performance engine doesnt really grab me. Part of me wants to be able to put my own touch on it however small it may be.

Heck, Id really like to take a motor and build it from the ground up. Thats something that has always interested me. My 5S is still running somehow so there is no hurry to swap. Id enjoy just having a motor on the side that can be worked on now and then. When the time comes where I have a garage, BOOM swap and pray it works haha.


ALL N ALL I cant say that I have totally crossed the BEAMS off the list for a potential future swap, a part of me says to just let go of the intense engine modding/building and focus on RACING. Which is a one of the main things this car is around for, and it hasnt been doing it at all in the past 3 years.


maybe Ill just buy a beams and sit on it for a few years....

The easiest way would be to get an SAFC2. Youd be able to tune it yourself no problem. I could give you some tips if need be

How expensive would that be? Is it worth it in terms of added horsepower and engine health?

IDK how much they go for nowadays, maybe $140 or so. Ive been running with mine for the past 4 years without issue. Youll be able to get more of the potential out of the 294's

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 25, 2014 - 11:56 PM