1MZ FE v6 swap starting issues (Fixed & Running), Fixed issue, engine now starts video posted!! Options

[Lamont]

As some of you know I'm in the process of completing a 1MZ-FE V6 swap into my 94 GT and I am currently having starting issues. I started troubleshooting a few days back once I had the motor installed and all the wiring connected. My findings so far; There is no CEL, I have 0 spark on all 6 cylinders, there is fuel pressure at the rail, and my compression numbers are:

cyl1 - 200
cyl2 - 200
cyl3 - 200
cyl4 - 196
cyl5 - 198
cyl6 - 205

I also don't get the CEL with the key in the "on" position, and as richee3 indicated this means the ECU isn't getting power. I was hoping it was something simple like the igniter, but with no power to the ECU I will try and diagnose why there is no power before buying anymore parts. Today I will check all my fuses and relays with a multi-meter. I would also like to know the ECU power pin locations for the 1MZ-FE so that I can check those as well. This way if power is present at the ECU we can assume that the problem could be a bad ECU. Any help would be great guys!!

Thank you
Lamont

This post has been edited by Lamont: Nov 9, 2014 - 10:48 PM

[Smaay]

Lets start with the ECU. what is the part number on it?

the power pins for the ECU are as follows:

Pin A14 (BATT) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it constantly.

pin A23 (+B) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it with the key in the ON position.

[Lamont]

Lets start with the ECU. what is the part number on it?

the power pins for the ECU are as follows:

Pin A14 (BATT) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it constantly.

pin A23 (+B) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it with the key in the ON position.

The ECU is part#: 89661-06400

I will check those pins to chassis ground now and reply with results in a few.

[Lamont]

Lets start with the ECU. what is the part number on it?

the power pins for the ECU are as follows:

Pin A14 (BATT) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it constantly.

pin A23 (+B) should be a black wire with yellow trace and have 12 V on it with the key in the ON position.

Pin A14 was pink and had a constant 11.96 volts

Pin A23 was Black and yellow and had 0 volts key off and key in on position

This post has been edited by Lamont: Nov 5, 2014 - 5:55 PM

[Smaay]

ok yes its pink because this is going in an ST correct? I dont have my spreadsheet for your build in front of me but the ST celica its a pink wire. OK good it has constant voltage.

ok with A23 not getting any power you need to check the EFI relay. have someone listen at the relay anr turn the key to ON, you should hear it click.

another thing to check is the COR (circuit opening relay) its the relay right next to the ECU for the fuel pump. with the key in the ON position, make sure you have power at pin 2

also check the fuse IGN, its a 7.5 amp fuse.

when I get home ill get my spreadsheet out for you and see what color wires are supposed to be

This post has been edited by Smaay: Nov 5, 2014 - 6:09 PM

[Lamont]

ok yes its pink because this is going in an ST correct? I dont have my spreadsheet for your build in front of me but the ST celica its a pink wire. OK good it has constant voltage.

ok with A23 not getting any power you need to check the EFI relay. have someone listen at the relay anr turn the key to ON, you should hear it click.

another thing to check is the COR (circuit opening relay) its the relay right next to the ECU for the fuel pump. with the key in the ON position, make sure you have power at pin 2

also check the fuse IGN, its a 7.5 amp fuse.

when I get home ill get my spreadsheet out for you and see what color wires are supposed to be

This is going into a 94 GT. I will check the relays and fuses tomorrow. It is too dark to see anything now.

[Smaay]

ok i was losing my mind for a second. yes that wire is pink on the 94 also.

ill send you the 94 celica drawing.

[Lamont]

ok yes its pink because this is going in an ST correct? I dont have my spreadsheet for your build in front of me but the ST celica its a pink wire. OK good it has constant voltage.

ok with A23 not getting any power you need to check the EFI relay. have someone listen at the relay anr turn the key to ON, you should hear it click.

another thing to check is the COR (circuit opening relay) its the relay right next to the ECU for the fuel pump. with the key in the ON position, make sure you have power at pin 2

also check the fuse IGN, its a 7.5 amp fuse.

when I get home ill get my spreadsheet out for you and see what color wires are supposed to be

Update:
- EFI Main relay clicks with the key in the "on" position
- COR (circuit opening relay) 11.77 volts with the key in the "on" position
- IGN 7.5 amp fuse location 7 under dash fuse panel is good
- Starting/fuel injection 7.5 amp fuse location 14 under dash fuse panel is good
- EFI 15 amp fuse location 20 engine compartment fuse block is good

[Smaay]

ok with the key in the ON position, check the diagnostic box at +B and see if you have power.


also check pin 4 on the MAF sensor plug. it should also be a black wire with yellow trace.

check the VSV's for the ACIS and EVAP and EGR. they all should have the same block with yellow trace for the power. If none of those have power with the key on thats the problem.

all of those are fed via a "jumper connector" and then a cap goes on it that shorts them all together. Its possible that cap got missed. MY BAD!!!! the junction connector is located between the ECU plugs and the rubber grommet. it should be wrapped in tape. there are several of those junctions, some are grounds (brown), some are power for the injectors and coils (black-red) and then switched power (black-yellow)

This post has been edited by Smaay: Nov 6, 2014 - 9:46 AM

[Lamont]

ok with the key in the ON position, check the diagnostic box at +B and see if you have power.


also check pin 4 on the MAF sensor plug. it should also be a black wire with yellow trace.

check the VSV's for the ACIS and EVAP and EGR. they all should have the same block with yellow trace for the power. If none of those have power with the key on thats the problem.

all of those are fed via a "jumper connector" and then a cap goes on it that shorts them all together. Its possible that cap got missed. MY BAD!!!! the junction connector is located between the ECU plugs and the rubber grommet. it should be wrapped in tape. there are several of those junctions, some are grounds (brown), some are power for the injectors and coils (black-red) and then switched power (black-yellow)

Update:
All with key in "ON" position
- diagnostic box +B = 0 volts
- pin 4 MAF black wire with yellow trace 0 volts
- VSV'S black wires with yellow trace 0 volts
- Jumper connector cap in place black wires with yellow trace 0 volts all connections
- EFI Main position F main fuse block #5 black wires with yellow trace 11.75 volts

[Smaay]

you found the jumper connector and every one of them has 0V? and you have 12V coming out of pin 5 on the main EFI relay? thats the feed that should go to that jumper connector. There should be a black with yellow wire that comes out of the EFI relay and splits. one run goes to the COR at pin 2 and the other run goes to the jumper connector.

need to find that wire. Dang man i really feel bad that you are having this trouble. I checked everything before I sent it. Its going to be 1 wire.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Nov 6, 2014 - 4:30 PM

[Lamont]

thats the problem!!!! ok find that connector up by the grommet through the firewall. its going to be a plug that all those black with yellow wires go into. Its missing the cap. get a picture of it and Ill get it to you ASAP.

The cap appears to be in place. I also checked the voltage on every wire connected to the block and they all have o voltage. Here are a few pictures:

[Smaay]

yeah thats the one, the cap is there. so now we gotta figure out why its not getting power. there is going to be 1 wire coming off the EFI relay, same colors, that feeds that connector. Need to trace that wire from the EA1 plug. Follow the wire from pin 2 on the COR. that is the same feed line for the junction box. If you cant find the split from it. you can make your own jumper wire.

just T into the black-yellow wire coming off pin 2 in the COR and T it into the wire that going into +B. That will feed all the other B-Y wires too.

[Lamont]

yeah thats the one, the cap is there. so now we gotta figure out why its not getting power. there is going to be 1 wire coming off the EFI relay, same colors, that feeds that connector. Need to trace that wire from the EA1 plug. Follow the wire from pin 2 on the COR. that is the same feed line for the junction box. If you cant find the split from it. you can make your own jumper wire.

just T into the black-yellow wire coming off pin 2 in the COR and T it into the wire that going into +B. That will feed all the other B-Y wires too.

I made the jumper cable from pin 2 of the COR to pin A23. I now have power at all +B locations previously mentioned. I also have a CEL on with the key in the "on" position. I haven't attempted to start the car yet since I promised my wife I would let her video the first start . I will attempt to start the car sometime tomorrow.

Thanks again
Lamont

[njccmd2002]

Wow props to smay. He knows his ****.

[Lamont]

Wow props to smay. He knows his ****.

Agreed, he is very knowledgeable and walked me through the whole process. I can tackle most mechanical jobs, but wiring is something I'm not comfortable with.

[Lamont]

The repair jumper cable did the trick and I was able to start the car today:

1st startup 1MZ-FE v6 swap

Commentary compliments of the wife

[Box]

Woooo, now someone should build me one.

[Arturio55]

Looks like that first rev scared her lol.. glad youre done tho

[Lamont]

Looks like that first rev scared her lol.. glad youre done tho

Yeah she said she wasn't expecting it to be that loud. I still have to get the exhaust done and the passenger engine mount, so not quite done yet