Changing the rear brake pads on a GT, A simple how to tutorial for changing your rear brake pads. Options

[r3ck0n1ng]

Changing the rear brakes pads on our cars (those that came with rear rotor disc brakes) is very easy to do. I did it this weekend and decided to document it for the benefit of those who never tried it.
It would be wise to check your brake pads if you notice any of the following symptoms - a loud pitched squeal emanating from the discs when moving without pressing the brakes, abnormal grinding noises or any other odd friction noises when pressing the brakes. If you have alloy wheels, you can gauge the pad thickness without removing the wheel, check that pads have at least a mm of compound left, else if you don't change them soon, you run the risk of scoring and ruining your discs.

1) Jack up the rear of the car, secure with jack stands and take off the wheels

2) Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservior cap - this will remove any pressure in the system when compressing the caliper pistons later on.
3) Grab a 12mm socket/spanner, loosen the bottom nut and remove completely.


4) using the same size socket/spanner, remove the brake line mounting nut from the strut - to make sure not to kink the brake line later on

5) Wiggle the caliper and swivel upwards. You do not need to take off the caliper completely from the sleeve. Make sure that the small rubber boots are in good shape as these prevent corrosion on the sleeves and bolts

6) Using a piece of string, secure the caliper upwards. MAKE SURE NOT TO HANG THE CALIPER BY THE BRAKE LINE
7) Slide out the old pads and remove the anti squeal shim if the new pad set comes without these. Its also a good idea to clean the clips holding the pads if you plan to re-use these as well.



8) Using the 4" g clamp and an old pad, compress the piston inwards to make space for the new pads. Check the fluid level in the reservior and you should notice a rise in the level. Remove fluid with syringe as neccessary if level exceeding MAX mark

9) With the anti squeal shims secured on the new pads, slide the new pads back into the clips. The pads with the wear indicator should be placed towards the inner side (the rear surface of the disc)

10) Swivel back the caliper and redo the caliper bolt and the brake line mounting bolt. A dab of grease on these bolts and you will thank yourself the next time you do this job. make sure not to touch the disk or pads with greasy fingers!
11) The caliper will feel loose at this point. Make sure to put the cap back on the reservior tank, start your car and pump the brake pedal until firm so that the piston and the new pads will seat tightly and adjust.

12) Go for a spin and bed in your new brake pads. Keep in mind that the brake bias is shifted to the front so your rear pads might not bed in such a small distance, normally, if the disc is slightly scored, the pads might take up to 500km in order to work to their full capacity, so always keep this in mind.

Repeat steps for the other side. It is mandatory and very important that brake pads are replaced in pairs (or all at once) at the same axle at the very least!!! All is done!



Hope you found this helpful!

[jordisonjr]

I vote for Sticky!
Good job

[BonzaiCelica]

i just recently had problems with the front sliding pins and one got seized on front brake caliper bracket. you mentioned something about grease but seems as though you are referring to the caliper bracket and not the sliding pin.

this is one step you are missing and that should be greased every time you put in rear pads or front pads. i just don't know how to remove the rear bracket sliding pins...

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 15, 2015 - 2:26 AM