Question about 7AFE idle. Options

[rapid36]

So First off I did some research and I have the exact same problem as this thread http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;hl=idle+drops Minus the starting issue, my car starts up very quickly each and every time. However I am trying to check my idle, I got the car to operating temp and I did not have the A/C running nor was the radiator fans running, and my idle was at 1,100 rpm. So I did some research on YouTube and I ended up loosening the distributor and twisting it to adjust the timing (I marked its original location just in case I need to go back to the setting I was previous running on) till I got to about 800 rpm (book calls for 700rpm with 5-15 degrees of timing). I tried getting it to 700 but I got it as close as I could and like I said I think its currently running at 800 rpm. Now I hooked up my timing light and the timing isnt consistent so I cant get an accurate reading, I think its cause my idle bounces by like 50-100 rpm constantly fluctuating. Now this car was recently resurrected from a 5 year stand. the motor came from a junkyard online and they said it was tested (not sure how legit that is), The car got a huge over haul, new rear main seal, new torque converter, net spark plugs, new fuel filter, new radiator, new vacuum hoses, new radiator hoses, new spark plug wires, new front and rear 02 sensor, ebay headers and down pipe, magnaflow high flow cat, all motor mounts have been replaced with some junk yard ones that appear to be good, 2 of the mounts were bought brand new.

So I guess my question is the idle suppose to be jumpy by like 5-10 degrees and consistently fluctuating? Is this normal?

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jul 6, 2015 - 2:05 PM

[Box]

Sounds like the IACV is hunting and pecking, probably just needs cleaned with some intake cleaner and Seafoam. Also the 700-750 rpm or so is for a manually equipped car, automatics will be around 850. Make sure the timing is proper beyond all else and give the IACV a cleaning.

[rapid36]

Sounds like the IACV is hunting and pecking, probably just needs cleaned with some intake cleaner and Seafoam. Also the 700-750 rpm or so is for a manually equipped car, automatics will be around 850. Make sure the timing is proper beyond all else and give the IACV a cleaning.

per the other guys post it seemed like he had a hard time with the IACV, is there anything i need to watch out for when it comes to taking it out and cleaning it? Also thanks for specifying that, i didnt know it was different per transmission. And timing is one thing im not entirely sure how to check, it seems like my idle is hunting and the timing isnt consistent. hopefully after I clean the IACV it will stop hunting so I can get an accurate reading on the timing.

[Box]

The thing with the IACV is don't take it apart to thoroughly clean unless you know what you're doing. Just blast the valve as you have a friend give it power on and off once you get it off the throttle body and that should suffice.

The timing you need a timing light, should be able to find a decent one off Amazon or eBay for not too much.

[rapid36]

The thing with the IACV is don't take it apart to thoroughly clean unless you know what you're doing. Just blast the valve as you have a friend give it power on and off once you get it off the throttle body and that should suffice.

The timing you need a timing light, should be able to find a decent one off Amazon or eBay for not too much.

I have a timing light just doesnt give seems like the timing isnt consistent. And for the IACV I dont understand what you are trying to tell me (could you put it in a way a dumb person would understand it? lol) but I plan on taking it off the throttle body and then also taking off the sensor part and then blasting the valve with carb cleaner. Is this the correct process?

[Smaay]

did you jumper the Te and E1 pins in the diagnostic box? if you dont do that then the timing light will make it bounce all over. if you jumper those pins then it will hold steady.

[rapid36]

did you jumper the Te and E1 pins in the diagnostic box? if you dont do that then the timing light will make it bounce all over. if you jumper those pins then it will hold steady.

Really?! huh thats strange, ok thank you! i'll give that a try! I will still try to clean the IACV first, im sure it needs it anyway.

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jul 7, 2015 - 10:23 AM

[Box]

did you jumper the Te and E1 pins in the diagnostic box? if you dont do that then the timing light will make it bounce all over. if you jumper those pins then it will hold steady.

Forgot about having to do that, good point. In fact you're supposed to do the same jumper for TPS adjustment and then there was something else I'm forgetting.

[rapid36]

did you jumper the Te and E1 pins in the diagnostic box? if you dont do that then the timing light will make it bounce all over. if you jumper those pins then it will hold steady.

Forgot about having to do that, good point. In fact you're supposed to do the same jumper for TPS adjustment and then there was something else I'm forgetting.

Out of curiosity do you have to do this for OBDII cars? mine is OBDI so this makes sense but im just curious if this happens on OBDII cars. such as doing something weird with the OBDII ports to get a consistent idle.

[Box]

With OBDII you can't even adjust the timing without a programmer I want to say.

[rapid36]

With OBDII you can't even adjust the timing without a programmer I want to say.

oh shows you how much I know lol.

[Box]

It's part of why I hate OBDII so much, to do much of anything you need a programmer and there's so much emissions garbage that likes to go out and throw codes... If the EGR goes out on an OBDI car you can just jumper the clip for the EGR temp sensor and it'll get rid of the code. EGR is just stupid, I can't even think of a new car that has it as they use variable valve timing now to accomplish the same effect.

[rapid36]

It's part of why I hate OBDII so much, to do much of anything you need a programmer and there's so much emissions garbage that likes to go out and throw codes... If the EGR goes out on an OBDI car you can just jumper the clip for the EGR temp sensor and it'll get rid of the code. EGR is just stupid, I can't even think of a new car that has it as they use variable valve timing now to accomplish the same effect.

Thanks now I hate my car :-( lol

[Box]

Why, it's OBDI. EGR was used on OBDII cars for the longest time until here recently, so then it's really annoying.

The difference in emissions crap between my brother's '95 and '98 Maxima was insane. Same generation and motor, but the '98 had all kinds of EGR garbage that never could be fixed right without spending a fortune just to turn a bulb off.

[rapid36]

Why, it's OBDI. EGR was used on OBDII cars for the longest time until here recently, so then it's really annoying.

The difference in emissions crap between my brother's '95 and '98 Maxima was insane. Same generation and motor, but the '98 had all kinds of EGR garbage that never could be fixed right without spending a fortune just to turn a bulb off.

JK :-), but yeah EGR was a pain for me to fix I had a code for hte longest time but I finally got it all tooken care of and now it works properly. Heres a off topic thing, my car is only getting 22MPG based on how much gas I used vs how many miles I have driven ( I dont know if this is an accurate test) but thats really horrible for having the EGR working properly lol. I have no idea why it would get such crappy mileage, I was getting in the 30's (eg 30-32, however dont quote me on this as it was a long time ago) before i did a retarded thing and let it sit for 5 years. Whats everyone else averaging for the ST models? I am thinking its running too rich but I have no smoke out the tail pipe whatsoever. Im hoping once I figure out this performance thing that I will get much better MPG.

[Box]

EGR really has nothing to do with mpg. If you let it sit for 5 years it's likely the injectors are sticking and leaking fuel.

[rapid36]

EGR really has nothing to do with mpg. If you let it sit for 5 years it's likely the injectors are sticking and leaking fuel.

When I ordered a motor from the junkyard I got the motor, intake manifold, fuel rail and all of the injectors. I installed a new fuel filter so I know thats not an issue.

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/toyota/celi...trim=1559491995

This site shows some of the MPG I should be seeing, or close to that range since its a used motor and such with 135k miles on it.

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jul 7, 2015 - 5:22 PM

[Box]

No telling how long the junkyard motor was sitting either. I got 36-40 out of mine but it was the 5-speed and saw constant 45-55 mph use.

[rapid36]

No telling how long the junkyard motor was sitting either. I got 36-40 out of mine but it was the 5-speed and saw constant 45-55 mph use.

Wow, thats amazing mileage. I hope to get somewhat close to that one day lol.

[Box]

I also drive like an old man. If you're always flooring it and bouncing off redline between gears that's not doing you any favours.