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> Stock Stereo Won't Power On, (CD/Tape Combo Player with Amp)
post Sep 5, 2015 - 8:17 PM
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MegaMac



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Alright, guys. I have a problem.

I have an original Toyota stereo as seen here: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/987/270/614/614270987_491.jpg

Since that particular system requires an amplifier, I purchased a stock one from a member on here, identical to the one seen here: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/y...Q/$_57.JPG

All cables are present and all connections fit and are tight. No missing prongs or severed wires. Once everything was ready to go I turned the car on and I heard the laser cycle, but the player did not turn on. I pressed the power button, and nothing. I also did the button combination to unlock Toyota radios, but it was still unresponsive. What am I doing wrong? Did I miss something? All fuses that relate to the radio and dash are fine as well. It seems to be getting power, but man, I am at a loss.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
post Sep 6, 2015 - 2:37 AM
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njccmd2002



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how are you certain that you had the code to unlock the radio. best thing is to check there is power to those leads, before the amp, and after the amp. Need a multimeter.

radio may be toast, amp may be toast.

radio can be tested with aftermarket amp.

amp can be tested with aftermarket radio.


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post Sep 6, 2015 - 11:33 AM
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MegaMac



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QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 6, 2015 - 3:37 AM) *
how are you certain that you had the code to unlock the radio. best thing is to check there is power to those leads, before the amp, and after the amp. Need a multimeter.

radio may be toast, amp may be toast.

radio can be tested with aftermarket amp.

amp can be tested with aftermarket radio.


I don't have the code, I just wanted to see if the button combination would activate it to enter the code, but it was still unresponsive. I do have a multimeter so I guess I'll see what's what.

I really hope one of them isn't a bust. I did read though that aftermarket radios cant be used with stock amps. Then again, I wouldn't know for sure either way, but I suppose some trial and error is in order.

If anyone else has any information, please feel free to post!
post Sep 6, 2015 - 1:06 PM
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MegaMac



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Alright, I tested the leads directly from the car. The blue pair. I received no reading on any setting on the multimeter lol. The car was on and everything was as it should be. Curious, I hooked up my previous, crappy aftermarket radio and it worked just like before (has a built-in amp). At any rate, I kept testing all the connections as I connected them. Plugged in the amp, and tested the outgoing plug and received some minor readings. Plugged in the stereo again and it made its cycle sounds, but still nothing. There does seem to be power getting to everything.

If the amp was bad, would the stereo still react like it does when plugged in? Is there anything I need to change electrically to accommodate the amp?

This post has been edited by MegaMac: Sep 7, 2015 - 2:59 PM
post Sep 9, 2015 - 3:24 PM
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njccmd2002



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you need this to connect a aftermaket radio to your oem amp...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120708112/Met...ss.html?tp=2977



at any rate, power should flow through the aftermarket amp. to the radio. unless busted.

here is your pin out.



test for power on p500 pins 4 and 3 of course on the coresponding spots on the harness.

if you get power there, and stereo dont turn on. radio is bad.. if no power, amp may be fried...



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Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL

If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in

2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...

A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.


@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
post Sep 11, 2015 - 4:02 PM
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MegaMac



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This is the strangest damn thing. I am getting no readings on my multimeter. Tested all suggested above. I am pretty positive the multimeter isn't bad since I used used it to replace a part on my dryer. I tested it on the "sound" setting on pins 4 and 3 to see if it was even making any sort of conductive path, and yes, it rang very steady. Just to be absolutely certain, is there a specific setting I should be testing with? I've tried most, if not all, just to remove doubt, even though I'm still at a loss.

What I don't understand is that when I plug the stereo in, the stereo reacts. So it must be getting power. Could this have anything to do with the Anti-Theft system it has?
post Sep 12, 2015 - 8:08 AM
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njccmd2002



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get a radio from a Toyota with no theft system and try


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Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL

If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in

2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...

A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.


@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
post Sep 12, 2015 - 10:28 PM
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azian_advanced



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The anti-theft system would show "HELP" on the display and the key indication on the stereo would glow red.
Since it's not doing that, and the stereo reacts or has power when plugged, then my guess is the radio is bad.


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post Sep 13, 2015 - 12:34 PM
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MegaMac



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QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Sep 12, 2015 - 10:28 PM) *
The anti-theft system would show "HELP" on the display and the key indication on the stereo would glow red.
Since it's not doing that, and the stereo reacts or has power when plugged, then my guess is the radio is bad.



Would it do that despite being from an entirely different vehicle? I'm pretty sure that form of anti-theft was implemented later, where the stereo communicates with the BCM and matches the VIN, but the unresponsiveness does sound like it.
post Sep 16, 2015 - 11:05 PM
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Yeah, the moment you unplug the stereo, the stereo locks itself as part of the anti-theft system. Although if you indeed have the same stereo as in the OP, it doesn't check with any BCM or VIN, you would just have to input a sequence of button presses on the stereo to unlock it, which only the dealer will provide. The sequence varies based on the stereo ID number located next to the Toyota logo on the front of the stereo.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Sep 16, 2015 - 11:07 PM


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post Sep 17, 2015 - 12:00 AM
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MegaMac



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QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Sep 17, 2015 - 12:05 AM) *
Yeah, the moment you unplug the stereo, the stereo locks itself as part of the anti-theft system. Although if you indeed have the same stereo as in the OP, it doesn't check with any BCM or VIN, you would just have to input a sequence of button presses on the stereo to unlock it, which only the dealer will provide. The sequence varies based on the stereo ID number located next to the Toyota logo on the front of the stereo.


Okay, gotcha. It's still not displaying anything, although it's reacting when plugged in. Maybe it's not getting enough power to function properly?

In the meantime, I've hooked up the crappy aftermarket stereo that was in it before. If I can find another stereo just like it for an affordable price, in great condition, I'll probably get it. Although those models are surprisingly rare. =/
post Sep 17, 2015 - 8:12 AM
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This may have been covered already but have you checked the stereo fuse? I know there is at least one under the hood in that fuse box, 20 or 30 amp I believe and there should be a spare provided. That doesn't explain you hearing the CD mechanism but judging by the connector shine above there may be multiple power supplies feeding the radio and a few different grounds. Worth checking anyway.
post Sep 20, 2015 - 5:24 PM
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MegaMac



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QUOTE (CosaChow @ Sep 17, 2015 - 8:12 AM) *
This may have been covered already but have you checked the stereo fuse? I know there is at least one under the hood in that fuse box, 20 or 30 amp I believe and there should be a spare provided. That doesn't explain you hearing the CD mechanism but judging by the connector shine above there may be multiple power supplies feeding the radio and a few different grounds. Worth checking anyway.


Yep, I did check the fuse under the hood labeled "Radio 1" and it was alright. Wasn't blown. The one under the panel inside is fine too. Under the hood is a 20, inside is a 15. That would appear to be all the related fuses.

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