88 Alltrac Options

[mkernz22]

Oh and this too. I think it makes the a$$ look wider

Euro plate holder vs USDM.

[Malek]

Does make it look wider!

Looking good man!

[Batman722]

I'm a fan of the euro plate holder.

[njccmd2002]

looks great

[cheela]

it's coming together real nice.

[njccmd2002]

i envy you, in a good way, love the car

[mkernz22]

i envy you, in a good way, love the car

Thank you, I do appreciate it!


Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered. It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them, for the peace of mind cause I'm getting sick of this whole coolant BS and I want it all out of the way in one shot. That's my main issue. The coolant bubbling from air getting in and it slightly overheating. It's the main thing that's holding me back from being able to drive it. Otherwise, it's fairly fine besides the massive amounts of internal and external body work I want to do to her.

...and tires. Need tires too. and new aero catch locks.

Just too much and too little money right now

[GMan]

Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered.
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now

Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards

[mkernz22]

Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered.
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now

Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards

Becauseracecar. That's why.

I don't even use A/C in my daily driver during the summer. I never had it after I had gotten into an accident with my old 6th gen so I got used to not having it for 5ish years. Now, I barely use it on my new one.
Regardless, it's a decent weight savings.

I only have one radiator fan on the front side, which doesn't turn on. The slim fan on the engine side that the PO installed was warped so it drew a ton of power and I tossed it. I'm going to hard wire the fans in there so they're hooked up to a relay with a toggle switch, that way I have control over them. One per switch/relay.

As for the coolant leak, I think it's just a hose that either needs to be replaced or a clamp that needs tightening. It's just under the intake and W2A coolant lines so it'll take a bit of time to get the stuff out to access it.

[Bitter]

Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.

[mkernz22]

Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.

There's a two wire sensor that's in the radiator. Other than that, there's nothing by the thermostat housing.

The OEM fan doesn't turn on at all though. That's one of my other issues and why I want to wire my own relays with a switch.
This was 3 other people's project and I'm the one that's going through and figuring this stuff out now.



Little update.
There also has been oil soaking through one of the rubber lines after the catch can, or at least I think, because nothing else is coated with it.
Got the radiator out today, there's oil on the block under the weird oil cooler the gen1 has so I have to pull the turbo and get all new crush washers for the cooler bolts and new gaskets for the turbo lines.
There's just so much stupid little stuff to do to try and get no leaks. I may just tear down most of the bay and put everything back together. It's the only way that I can see myself doing it right and making sure everything is 100% good to go.
ugh..
Least I have time. That I'm thankful for. Money, not so much.

[Bitter]

Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.

[mkernz22]

Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.

That's actually not a bad idea, and I'll probably get a few with the wires already on since it saves me time with having to put the whole thing together.
I'm most likely going to make a switch panel below the radio, if I keep the radio. I already have the IC pump on it's own relay and switch so I might as well make a master panel.

[Bitter]

Heck, you could put a bung with a sensor in the intake tract post core and have that run the IC pump through a relay or PWM. If you can't tell, I like automation. Just need to know how many amps the pump pulls then you can pick a controller with settings to vary the pump flow based on air intake temp or a simple off/on controller to turn the pump on at XX temp and off at XX temp. And of course, you can still have full manual control too with a simple toggle.

[mkernz22]

Yeahh...that's too much work for now lol
Toggle switch is fine for the time being.

Found the coolant leak, it was actually a line from the W2A system, which I'm reworking anyway because I have a ST205 heat exchanger to put on it.
Just a mock for now, but it fits with the stock fogs. Just have to move the power steering cooler, also have to mount up the transmission cooler I have, and eventually get an oil cooler.
The lines will be a little funky for it, but I can make it work. Luckily I have one of the OEM lines for this HE and it has a nice 90 degree bend in it
As you can see in the pictures, I need to make some custom brackets for it, but it does line up perfect with the two holes the A/C condenser bolted it. The bottom mounts on it need a custom bent bracket, which shouldn't be too hard to create.






This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 3, 2016 - 12:07 AM

[mkernz22]

Woo, I just got some more parts thanks to Dustin and Manny!

-ST205 W2A Pump
-ST205 Power steering cooler
-Another ST205 transmission cooler, bit better condition than the other one I have
-Last, but not least, a bunch of fittings and an oil filter relocation kit.

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.

Just need to swap my radiator support, figure out the brackets, and get a few more fittings before I can start putting it all back together.
The hardest part is really just going to be figuring out the brackets and the expensive part is all those damn fittings..

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 10, 2016 - 12:21 AM

[mkernz22]

Well I f*cked up the 205 power steering cooler while trying to bend it with a hand held bender. It slipped and kinked one of the lines so I might be tossing that out now, unless I cut it down to after the kinks. Does it matter if the pipe has that lip on it? I'm just not sure if it'll leak or not without it.

Sort of came up with a way to mount the 205 HE. Cut the bottom brackets off, flipped it, and the two top brackets line up perfectly with the outer fog light mounts. Going to upgrade to aftermarket fogs cause both of my oem sets are pretty rough.. I'll just make a bracket off the old bracket to mount whatever fog lights I get.

Now comes the challenge of plumbing it all together.



Mock mount for the transmission cooler, still not exactly sure where I'm going to put it.


Also thinking about getting an oil cooler in there too, but that's the last of my worries.
W2A first, then PS cooler, trans cooler, and finally oil cooler.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 26, 2016 - 2:33 PM

[Box]

Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?

[mkernz22]

Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?

Yeaaahhh, but its the most expensive part of it so I'm saving it till last. **Notice how I said last of my worries instead of least
It might end up being very last cause I have to pull the turbo, replace the external gaskets on it, run a new braided feed and return line, and get new crush washers on the engine oil cooler. There's oil leaking somewhere near there on the block :angry:

Close to being done with the W2A setup though

[Box]

Only a letter off.