Engine Heat with AC On Options

[HardHead93]

A lot of people remove A/C as well, so they wouldn't have a problem in that regard. As far as the radiator goes after looking the generic eBay specials and the Mishimoto do look strikingly similar. Not saying it's the case but odds are they're both made by the same factory and the best ones get the Mishimoto branding while the others get sent to whatever seller on eBay or Amazon. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it does seem like the Mishimoto ones have cleaner welds. If it were me I'd look into the Koyo Racing radiator part# R1958.

I didn't even think about that brand. It looks like the stock radiator fans mount directly to this radiator. The following thread says so:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=61443

Can you confirm if that is true because if that is the case, I will definitely go with that radiator?

[Box]

From all the listings they say the Koyo despite being a racing radiator is meant to be 100% direct fit and uses the stock fans, the only thing not direct fit is the radiator cap and you need one of their caps but that's not a big deal if everything else is 100% o.e. fit. Personally I'd trust Koyo over Mishimoto or a generic eBay just due to the fact Koyo is an o.e. part supplier, that and the Koyo looks nicer made for the same price as the Mishimoto. Here according to their quality page they state every radiator is made to use all o.e. mounting locations and fans: http://koyoradracing.com/about/our_quality.asp

[HardHead93]

From all the listings they say the Koyo despite being a racing radiator is meant to be 100% direct fit and uses the stock fans, the only thing not direct fit is the radiator cap and you need one of their caps but that's not a big deal if everything else is 100% o.e. fit. Personally I'd trust Koyo over Mishimoto or a generic eBay just due to the fact Koyo is an o.e. part supplier, that and the Koyo looks nicer made for the same price as the Mishimoto. Here according to their quality page they state every radiator is made to use all o.e. mounting locations and fans: http://koyoradracing.com/about/our_quality.asp

SOLD!

[Box]

I found a few on eBay in the $270-280 range, but main thing is finding an authorized retailer so you get all of your warranty. At any rate if it were me I'd go with the Koyo over the others.

[HardHead93]

I found a few on eBay in the $270-280 range, but main thing is finding an authorized retailer so you get all of your warranty. At any rate if it were me I'd go with the Koyo over the others.

I found a retailer selling one with the radiator cap for $304.99. It also comes with the warranty. I just made the purchase along with the condenser. I hope to get all this swapped out when it comes in. Thanks for the info, I would have never thought of looking at the Koyo radiators had you not said something.

[Bitter]

It would be wise to have a shop evac the AC system for you, then also have the shop recharge it correctly as well. If the receiver/dryer is old it should be replaced in the system as well.

[Box]

I found a few on eBay in the $270-280 range, but main thing is finding an authorized retailer so you get all of your warranty. At any rate if it were me I'd go with the Koyo over the others.

I found a retailer selling one with the radiator cap for $304.99. It also comes with the warranty. I just made the purchase along with the condenser. I hope to get all this swapped out when it comes in. Thanks for the info, I would have never thought of looking at the Koyo radiators had you not said something.

Cool beans. No problem, I'm not sure why but I all of a sudden had remembered Koyo made racing radiators for the 6th gen GT among a few other Japanese cars.

Ditto on having a shop pull a vacuum and recharging it as well as replacing the drier/accumulator, personally with most cars the drier is cheap enough that it only makes sense to replace it every time you have the A/C recharged.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 13, 2017 - 6:42 AM

[slavie]

"While you're there" jobs can be a real time hog, but, while you're there, think about replacing the seals in the AC connection points, at least the ones you touch. If your current refrigerant levels are really low, it must have escaped somewhere, which could well be the seals. Not sure if the new condenser comes with seals, but they're a few bucks anyway.

And yes, replace the dryer - they act like filters in the AC systems, and really are relatively cheap.

You can DIY AC vacuum, but need some tools (which can be loaned out at auto stores) and knowledge, so up to you. To discharge it first before you start taking parts though, a shop has to evacuate the system, definitely not a DIY.

[HardHead93]

Just about all the parts are in and I am getting ready to start replacing the AC condenser and radiator. I am going to have to take off the intercooler to get to all the parts on the car. This brought up a question. Since I will have the intercooler off, is it a good idea to put a puller fan on it? If so should I wire it with the rest of the radiator fans or have it turn on by some other method?

[Bitter]

Wire it to an IAT with a fan controller kit so it comes on at your target IAT.

[Bitter]

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?...-Fan&A=2478

[HardHead93]

I got my Koyo radiator and the stock fans fit on it perfectly. I also got my new condenser and filter can in. Hopefully these items will fix my heat issue.



It was definitely a pain in the butt to get everything off. I had to remove the bumper and intercooler to get to everything.


The old condenser was clogged with a bunch on bugs and crap. I bet that was affecting some of the air flow to the radiator.


This is a shot of the old condenser next to the new one.


This is my brand new Koyo radiator. The bolt holes for the radiator fans line up perfectly!

I also decided to go with different shaped intercooler to help airflow get to the radiator. Below is a shot of the old and the new intercooler and the new intercooler installed.



As you can see I went with a taller but narrower intercooler. It actually has more surface area than than to old one too, so score! All these changes should fix my cooling issues.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: May 14, 2017 - 8:56 AM

[Bitter]

I sure hope so! You should get some heat shield on that pipe too!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122464347337?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And secure with some SS ties.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181830612891?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

how to use the ties and what the product looks like. Not the prettiest but it blocks a ton of heat from radiating toward the radiator area and fans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecS2ZwjWo-g
They have product installation videos on their website that show how to measure and cut and do stuff to make it look like a pro race car job.

[Box]

Nothing like cutting/removing the crash bar to fit a bigger intercooler.

[HardHead93]

Here is a shot of the front of the car with the new intercooler. It definitely opens some space on the sides for some airflow compared to the old intercooler.

[brandon702bmx]

Anything under 240º is within operating spec on most any modern engine, so if it only gets up to 215º you're over worrying. Ideally you're in the 185-210º range on most engines. Thing is though the best place to read water temperature is in the head since it's most accurate, so odds are you're higher than what you're currently reading.

When i was running a standalone on my 5s and could pull temp readings right off it, I had this sensor/gauge in place and it was pretty close to the same as what was coming off the stock temp sensor on the coolant neck (my gauge was reading 1-2 degrees higher). On the 3s the stock sensor is in the same place on the coolant neck that comes off the cylinder head so I am probably in the same boat. What ever my gauge is reading is pretty close to what the ECU is seeing. It is good to know that the temps (around 215 degrees F) I am seeing could have me worried for nothing.

You could go to a GT-Four bumper and hood as well as the TMIC if you could find one, it worked for every factory GT-Four so you know it'll work for you. Though many do fine with a FMIC and the GT-Four bumper and hood.

I already have a custom vented hood.


I like the GT-Four bumper but it seems like everyone is doing that conversion who has a 6th gen Celica. I would like to use a bumper that gives a different look than everyone else but still provides the venting I want. Is there any reputable company that makes a quality aftermarket bumper of the style I am looking for? I am planning to repaint the car later this year and I would do the bumper then.

Taking the old stock bumper that originally comes from the car and adding a lip to the bottom would suit your needs. I have a buddy that did it on his car He was tired of the aftermarket front bumper so he just stole the lip off of it and put it on the stock one. Doesn't look too bad.

[VavAlephVav]

http://www.andysautosport.com/images/extre...licac5front.jpg

they call that the C5, it similar to the stock gt4,
or the Invader is cool looking too
https://www.carid.com/duraflex/blits-style-...amp;url=1666518

[HardHead93]

I got everything installed and was excited that my temps were acting normal until yesterday. It was a hot 100 degree day. I was driving about 75-80 mph on the freeway with the AC on and the water temps would slowly rise to 222 degrees. It looks like it would continue to rise (that's not good) so I turned the AC off. The temps would then drop back down to about 208-209 while still on the freeway. I would turn the air back on and again it would rise to about 222 again. Then I would turn it off and it would drop again. When I don't use the AC at all the water temp never goes above 204 even with highway driving. Also, in stop and go traffic with the AC on, the temps are fine. More and more it is looking like the FMIC is blocking just enough air cause the problem.

If you read this full thread, you can see that I have replaced everything in the cooling and AC system. I also had a shop properly charge the AC system so the condenser would work correctly and they checked out the compressor and said it was operating fine. I am thinking of putting a 7 inch slim fan on the back of the intercooler to get some air to flow through. This sucks that the problem is only happening with the AC on!

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Jun 10, 2017 - 9:42 AM

[Bitter]

yep, too much heat load with the AC on, for sure try an aux slim fan, you already have one from previous so all you need is a relay harness to piggy back on the fan control circuit so it runs with the AC.

[Box]

That or time for a SMIC setup, but can always try a fan that comes on with the A/C first.