Electrical Nightmare, Grounded out my alternator Options

[[Freemantle]]

I was having one of my friends figure out where in my drivetrain this loud ticking noise was coming from (cracked lifter on an intake valve in #1, this is another day's nightmare).

When he was pulling the main wiring harness from the top of the valve cover, he removed the primary lead from the alternator without taking off the negative battery cable. I was across the garage getting a tool when I heared *crack* as the guide touched the engine bay and the voltage spiked.

My alternator tested good, my battery tested good, here are the electrical systems that still work.

ECU
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil

That's it.

No Windows, no Lights, no Spedometer or Tach, no A/C, no Fuel Gauge. I pulled all my fuses in the passenger compartment and they were all fine. Anyone know of a relay that could have burnt out to cause every system but the vitals to fail? Thanks for any/all of your help.

I'm picking up a Toyota service manual now. I guess I was going to need one eventually, this is just going to push the turbo setup back a ways.

-nate

[playr158]

check all of them in the engine bay....and all of them under the steering wheel...........

if they are all good....

then i hope you have a big wallet...fixing electrical is really really expensive

[celicast3sgte]

Well if you have a stock motor setup then cant you pull your engine harness see if it fried and go from there? if it shorted itll show what parts are shorted out. If you need to get new computers contact coomer hes got a parts car as well as other members they will most likely help you out. hope this help.

[Coomer]

I have a PDF of the entire car's electrical diagrams...it's very helpful and I can send it to you if you want.

You did check the 100 amp alternator fuse and the 60 amp main fuse, right? They're not normal looking fuses, and shorting out the alternator's main power wire should blow the 100 amp alternator fuse so that no damage is done.

And post in the correct forum next time.

[madmods]

I have a PDF of the entire car's electrical diagrams...it's very helpful and I can send it to you if you want.

You did check the 100 amp alternator fuse and the 60 amp main fuse, right? They're not normal looking fuses, and shorting out the alternator's main power wire should blow the 100 amp alternator fuse so that no damage is done.
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I gotta agree with coomer, u probably got damm lucky and blew the fuse. theres alot of fuses in the engine compartment, forget about the ones in the car. You should be ok.

[Rjb23]

I was having one of my friends figure out where in my drivetrain this loud ticking noise was coming from (cracked lifter on an intake valve in #1, this is another day's nightmare).

When he was pulling the main wiring harness from the top of the valve cover, he removed the primary lead from the alternator without taking off the negative battery cable. I was across the garage getting a tool when I heared *crack* as the guide touched the engine bay and the voltage spiked.

My alternator tested good, my battery tested good, here are the electrical systems that still work.

ECU
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil

That's it.

No Windows, no Lights, no Spedometer or Tach, no A/C, no Fuel Gauge. I pulled all my fuses in the passenger compartment and they were all fine. Anyone know of a relay that could have burnt out to cause every system but the vitals to fail? Thanks for any/all of your help.

I'm picking up a Toyota service manual now. I guess I was going to need one eventually, this is just going to push the turbo setup back a ways.

-nate
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Do you have radio?

If not you probably blew the 40 amp fuse in the passenger compartment. Its a sqare fuse in the top right hand corner I believe. Replace that and you should be good. I don't remember what its called off the top of my head but there are 4 along the side that look the same. I kept blowing mine when ignition wire was shorting out and without it your alternator, speedo, tach, heater/ac, windows, radio will not work.

[[Freemantle]]

Thanks for all the replies! I'll check into all of that tomorrow, I have the day off. I would appreciate that PDF if you have it. Freemantle[at]gmail[dot]com please. I'll keep you guys updated and tell you what I find.

[lagos]

i dont think you ruined your wiring..... fuses are there to protect the car from this type of thing. you can get a little cheap fuse tester that will help you test all off them to know for sure, or just pull them out one by one and take a look

[Cutrara]

i dont think you ruined your wiring..... fuses are there to protect the car from this type of thing. you can get a little cheap fuse tester that will help you test all off them to know for sure, or just pull them out one by one and take a look
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Yeah, the only way you can fry your wiring is if you use bigger fuses then you're supposed to, and you have a short. Fuses are a smaller gauge than the wiring so if there is a short, the electricity will burn through the fuse because electricity will burn through the smallest gauge in the loop. If the fuse was bigger than recommended, the whole wire in the loop would be the smallest gauge, and fry the wiring, and possibly set your car on fire.

Rjb mentioned the 40 Amp fuse in the dash. That's probably your best bet.