Clunking noise when driving over a pebble., (YES I used the search engine) Options

[GriffGirl]

I didn't wanna threadjack or anything since my clunking noise seems to be totally different than the "clunking while braking" thread... I know my rear struts are blown (there's evidence of leaking) and I'm getting ready to fix that very soon finally. But while I'm up in there I want to fix whatever it is that causes the awful clunking in the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm driving on the streets as opposed to highway. At higher speeds (over 45 or 50) it doesn't make the noise. I searched around and have found conflicting reasons that point to either the endlinks or the swaybar bushings (or strut mounts).

Anyone have any input on this, and how to I tell which one it is? I don't want to just arbitrarily replace stuff that doesn't need replacing. Yeah, I'm all for upgrading everything, but a girl's gotta pay the rent too.

[DEATH]

Griffy - there is nothing arbitrary about this. Replace all of that stuff at the same time or like we discussed - close to it. It's gonna be much better that way - trust me.
Do it right or do it twice as some wise soul once told me [Hmmm - wonder who that was? ]

[LewFX]

end links sound like rattling or popcorn popping in the rear
strut mounts clunk when turning
wheel bearings can clunk if seized and can make your rotors warp and brakes wear if uneven.
bushings will help with small clunks while driving over anything

[GriffGirl]

Definitely no rattling or popcorn
Clunks all the time, not just when turning
Drums weren't warped at all when I did the disc conversion; 5k miles later the rear rotors seem just fine so far
Bushings!!!


I can get new swaybar bushings, right? This isn't something where I have to replace the whole thing because of the bushings, is it?

Death - I'm gonna have a close look at the endlinks. If they're in one piece and not rusted, I'm gonna leave 'em for now. Gotta get those tires.

[azian_advanced]

it helps if you sit in the back and have someone else drive to find out where the sound is coming from...
you can easily tell if it's the strut mounts, spare tire or sway bar bushings, etc...

[gt_driFFter]

Sway bar bushings are:
cheap
easy to replace
a common cause to the problem you describe.

[tomazws]

Back then my rear is always clunking when I go over speed bumps, over pot holes, down a drive way, up a drive way, etc. My friend told me I just have to screw in the bolts to the end links tighter. So I lifted up the car, screwed in all the bolts I can see in the back as tight as possible. Clinking disappeared.

But that's just me. Hope it's a simple fix for your also.

[GriffGirl]

Sweet - I'll check those bolts too.


Okay but how badass would it be if it was just the spare tire! I would seriously laugh my butt off. (I'm really sure it's not... okay, pretty sure).

Wait - I know where to get endlinks (twosrus of course) but where do I get swaybar bushings?

OMG! I just looked at this and it totally makes sense! I bet that's what it is! YAY!

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Sep 11, 2008 - 7:02 PM

[Batman722]

read the stickies NOOB j/k

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=60744

part #s for the sway bar bushings are listed on the pics

[GriffGirl]

oh yeah, that.


LOL! Thanks...

[Galcobar]

And then there's the expensive possibility -- bad bushing/bearing in the suspension arms. Those are US$90 each, and there's four of them. Typically, it's the No. 2 suspension arms (the rear arms of the set), but can be the No. 1. Unfortunately, you have to replace the entire arm.

If you're replacing the struts, then you'll want to replace your strut mounts (the mounts take as much punishment as the struts). As noted, replacing the end links and sway bar bushings at the same time is a good idea.

Replacing the No. 2 suspension arms on the sixth-gen is relatively easy; the No. 1 arms are much more difficult, as you have to lower the gas tank to get the bolts out on that side.

Try this test -- get the car up on a lift with the wheels hanging loose. Stick a pry bar in at the point where the suspension arms connect to the suspension member (the brace bolted to the underside of the chassis) and pry at it. If the arm moves and produces a pop/clunk, you've located your problem.

[Rayme]

if its the rear control arms, you can easily do this test :

Jack the rear of the car, take each wheel at 9 and 3, and wiggle, if you can move the wheel around, it's the suspension arms(and their bushings)...that is if the wheel bearing isnt failing (which would be another type of noise).

The noise you describe really wheel worn suspension arms bushings and when it's really loud, you can easily move the wheels with your bare hands.

You have to change the arms as the bushings are non-servicable and made into the arms.

This post has been edited by Rayme: Sep 16, 2008 - 6:05 PM

[GriffGirl]

^ Actually, I had an '87 Pathfinder that did that, with the wheel moving back and forth, it was scary and alarming to say the least. So when I did my rear brake conversion, I did exactly that to all the wheels, I pushed on them to see if they'd move back and forth like that, and they didn't. Ow chika-wow.

I think I found somebody who knows what they're doing to help me. So hopefully I'll have answers (and a fixed up suspension!) real soon!

[Galcobar]

Unfortunately, the wheel wiggle test doesn't necessarily work to determine if suspension arm bearings are gone, as I discovered. Particularly if they've broken down in an asymmetrical fashion, so that in/out movement is still fine but up/down is compromised.

[CelicaST_CALI]

i have this exact noise....just turn up the music

[Athorn]

Me mechaninc took a look at my car and found out it just wasnt the bushing it was the whole left arm. I thought it was wosrse than just a bushing.

[GotToyota]

Did you ever replace your sway bar bushings, and did it fix the problem?

[samir0189]

Griffgirl- Was it almost rhythmic clunking? I recently started to hear some clunking like "clunk clunk clunkity clunk clunk, etc" LOL when i was doing less that 20mph and i checked and i fixxeedd ittt!

You do have the GT disc rear conversion right?

Well anyway, the source of my noise is a bit difficult to describe but ill give it a go. The bolt that holds the caliper, the 12mm (not the pivoting one that the caliper rotates on) but the one you actually unscrew, theres this rubber boot that is on the caliper, and mine was compressed! SO i just uncompressed it and it revealed a rubber cushion for inbetween where the metal surrounding the bolt on the caliper meet and the metal that the bolt screws into on the caliper bracket. Those two metal things were clunkity clunking.

I know that sounds confusing, if anyone has a picture of the rear disc brakes i can easily point it out.

[GriffGirl]

My thumping issue (no, not the two 10s in the back LOL) is probably the sway bar bushings. No, I haven't replaced them yet (still), my plate is full of transmission right now

That bolt you're talking about is the caliper pin if it's what I think you're talking about. If so, keep an eye on that because you don't want that piston to seize up on you. If I were you I'd get that caliper off my wheel, pull that pin out and clean up around it, getting rid of any rust or corrosion, and oil up the inside some to get things moving again.

Oh and yeah I did the rear disc conversion

[GotToyota]

Autozone sells a universal set of sway bar bushings by Energy Suspension that I might take a look at, as I would like to replace mine. Would anyone happen to know the diameter of the rear sway bar?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Energy-Susp...sspagenameZWDVW

Like those above, but for whatever diameter our sway bar is.

-Matt

This post has been edited by GotToyota: Oct 21, 2008 - 7:06 PM