Etak28's 5sfte, UPDATE: Engine is Done... Start early on offers for upcoming part out Options

[RUNNIN-LOW]

no biggy man..you just do what you have to do. everyone is here to help and yeah mistake happens..i remember my first 5s turbo set up...it was pretty bad haha didnt have a car for a whole month..my dumb ass didnt read up on nothing and just decided to do it..didnt even know this web site existed haha..but at the end it all came together..but its good that you listed the stuff you are going to get and the stuff you have already.. just tell us what other stuff your planning on getting and well help..

[Etak28]

So I've got the turbo and such bolted on, however, I'm a little cloudy on oil issues.

I'm pretty sure I have everything I need for my oil lines but I'm a little unclear of how to run everything?

Is it different with the t3/t4?

Can i just get a quick lil writeup maybe with pictures of the step by step process? Manny ur writeups on supershannon's thread are very helpful however idk im a little nervous just going out there and trying.

so anyone wanna help?

[supershannon77]

do you have a oil pressure gauge?

[Etak28]

do you have a oil pressure gauge?

didnt buy that yet, but i need to hook everything else up first and leave a spot for me to hook that up when i have the money to buy it

[6strngs]

You have Tee'd off from the stock oil pressure sender right? that's where you connect the feed line, then you connect it to the turbo using an adaptor like the one I showed you from ATPturbo.com. Use a -3AN line, to connect it to the Tee you'll need a -3AN to 1/8" NPT adaptor. Also, most on here would suggest using a restrictor in the feed line so you don't overfeed oil to the turbo.

For the drain line, connect one end of your -10AN or -12AN line to the adaptor you got for the turbo, and the other end goes to the 3sgte oil pan using the adaptor like I showed you from KO racing. using the proper adapters so you match AN threads to AN threads and NPT to NPT of course...

Also, you need to use teflon tape (it's like $0.99 for a roll of it at an auto parts store) for one of the thread types. I can't remember if it's the AN or the NPT threads you need it for... I'm thinkng NPT but don't quote me on that. Anyway, just wrap 2-3 layers of teflon tape on those threads to ensure it doesn't leak from the connection.

Oh yeah, and that particular turbo is not water cooled, so no need to worry about running coolant lines. You might want to invest in a turbo timer though.

[RUNNIN-LOW]

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

[Etak28]

You have Tee'd off from the stock oil pressure sender right? that's where you connect the feed line, then you connect it to the turbo using an adaptor like the one I showed you from ATPturbo.com. Use a -3AN line, to connect it to the Tee you'll need a -3AN to 1/8" NPT adaptor. Also, most on here would suggest using a restrictor in the feed line so you don't overfeed oil to the turbo.

For the drain line, connect one end of your -10AN or -12AN line to the adaptor you got for the turbo, and the other end goes to the 3sgte oil pan using the adaptor like I showed you from KO racing. using the proper adapters so you match AN threads to AN threads and NPT to NPT of course...

Also, you need to use teflon tape (it's like $0.99 for a roll of it at an auto parts store) for one of the thread types. I can't remember if it's the AN or the NPT threads you need it for... I'm thinkng NPT but don't quote me on that. Anyway, just wrap 2-3 layers of teflon tape on those threads to ensure it doesn't leak from the connection.

Oh yeah, and that particular turbo is not water cooled, so no need to worry about running coolant lines. You might want to invest in a turbo timer though.

thanks man that's all i needed was it all put together like that

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

yea ill post the new set of pics real soon, i may still need some stuff ill have to let you kno



my next question deals with installing the 3sgte oil pan. how do you get the one bolt off that bolts into the tranny and is hidden behind the central frame. The bolt does not go into the oil pan but it goes into the cover over the oil pan that i have to take off to get to the last couple bolts for the oil pan.

how do you get that off????

[6strngs]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

[Etak28]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

[6strngs]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

oh, you mean the black cross member that runs beneath your engine? yeah, you'll nee to remove that too. four bolts on one end, and 3 at the other. pry the little plastic caps off with a screwdriver to see the bolts... it's not fun getting it out, and even less fun getting it back in, but it must be done.

[Etak28]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

oh, you mean the black cross member that runs beneath your engine? yeah, you'll nee to remove that too. four bolts on one end, and 3 at the other. pry the little plastic caps off with a screwdriver to see the bolts... it's not fun getting it out, and even less fun getting it back in, but it must be done.

haha oooooooooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkkkk, im very excited to finish this up now

ill keep ya guys posted

[1bwilson]

How are you addressing your tuning? Your installing all this stuff but I havent seen you mention anything about controling your fuel or timing.

[Etak28]

How are you addressing your tuning? Your installing all this stuff but I havent seen you mention anything about controling your fuel or timing.

Bought a Greddy e-manage... my friend is tuning it for me

[bccentaur3]

Did you get a wideband gauge yet?

[Etak28]

Did you get a wideband gauge yet?

na thats the thing ive really been looking for, i really need one thats not too pricey but still a necessity i kno

[bccentaur3]

he best bang for the buck and easy install would be the AEM eugo. I opted to go with the LC1 wideband unit with the DB gauge. Install is about the same, but a couple more wires.

[Etak28]

he best bang for the buck and easy install would be the AEM eugo. I opted to go with the LC1 wideband unit with the DB gauge. Install is about the same, but a couple more wires.

yea i was actually looking into gettin a used AEM, prosport is also coming out with one by next month so i was looking into that...

new oil pan is in and feed line run, now just need to get the -12an return setup

pictures will come soon... i promise lol

[Etak28]

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

hey runnin, where did you get your -12an return line from?

[RUNNIN-LOW]

got it from a local tunner shop up here..if no shops there have any best bet is to order it on line. but im sure some shops around there has to have some on hand.

[Etak28]

got it from a local tunner shop up here..if no shops there have any best bet is to order it on line. but im sure some shops around there has to have some on hand.

okay ill see what i can pick up