Fixing a 2nd gen 3sgte harness / preping for my swap, no, its not going in Jenns car, its going in MINE! ;) Options

[lagos]

^ will do!

[presure2]

goddamnit i hate the way this harness was put together.

it made SO much more work for me, i basicly have to cut and rewire every wire in this harness because of how long it was.

that said, once its done, its gonna be CLEAN.

no unused plugs, no unneeded wires, nothing behind the intake manifold, (other than the manifold ground and knock sensor)

when this swap gets done it will be one of the cleanest 2nd gen swaps on 6gc.


a couple pics of the progress.

first the extra wire i needed to cut out because of the way dave lengthed the harness.



most of those taken care of, the wires that are to the right of the pic are wires that need to go back thru the harness to the ignitor plug, AFM, waterneck ect.
you can also see the plug that i also relocated for the map sensor to the passanger side of the car, the way it is on a 6th gen harness.



art/tweak can you tell me what this power wire plug is for? its located at the starter plugs.

[95celgt]

i remember that one, it didn't really go any where, but yea lets see what tweak has to say

[presure2]

i remember that one, it didn't really go any where, but yea lets see what tweak has to say

thats exactly what i needed to hear, i was 99% sure it was a dead plug, just wanted to make sure before i pull it off.

[lagos]

Im looking at my harness right now...
So on the JDM car the harness goes from the right of the injector plastic, to interior of the car.
So for the usdm car, do you have to bend the harness in half to make it come out of the left of the injectors and then extend the wires to things like the afm, coil, diag box, etc...?

Im a little confused with the routing because I unwrapped this harness a little too much.
I think Im going to have to take this out to the car and mock it up when I'm done with the wiring.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 27, 2008 - 9:35 PM

[devilsden97]

no to interupt the amazingly high level of electronics talk going on, but this really is amazing.

2 guys, 1 girl. (itchys the chick) working on there harnesses at once. and helping eachother out.

just amazing


good luck to u all

[Batman722]

post more pics !!!!!!!!!?!!!??!??!?!!!!!

[lagos]

I ran into something that I cant figure out. Plug EA1 has a blue wire on pin 16, yet I can't find any mention of what this wire is for in any of my books. Anyone have a clue what its does? It might be something year specific, and thats why its not in my book.

Sorry for jacking your thread with my own questions Manny. If its a problem, I can start a new one. Oh and thanks to this thread, you motivated me to start working on this thing. I was slacking...big time, but now that I started on it, Im actually having a lot of fun with it.

[presure2]

art, the blue wire is for the fan switch in the radiator in ST's.
for some reason it routes that way, the GT's dont.
ill post a pic in a few of what the harness looks like now.

my harness is routed just like a 5s harness now, art.

it starts at the diagnostics box, ignitor and coil (i moved the map sensor to the stock 5s location, then goes to the waterneck, then some wires go the the fuse box, the rest go up thru the manifold, and into the boot on the other side, just like a stock harness.

i had to cut and splice a few wires as i went, to get the rest of the wires to be able to "flip", then cut out all the extra wire out (which sucked because of how dave extended it, once i had it all going the right way.

[presure2]

as promised, a few pics.
the harness is 99% finished here, just need to finish wrap it, and get some convoluted tubing.

what a bitch. im not sure exactly what approach tweak takes when doing this conversion for people, but whatever it is, just pay the man.
its worth it. and pay him extra to loom your harness in the proper order, so that you dont end up with a harness that looked like RJB's.

this is what it looks like now:



the pile of extra wire....look dan, weight savings!!!!!!!!!



and finally the tools i used to do this:
pictured left to right are:
bluepoint butane soldering iron: man, this thing will solder anything. as you can see in the pic, it has interchangeable tips, a few diffrent soldering ones, and heat shrink one and a little blow torch tip.
it heats up FAST, and is temp adjustable, and gets hot enough to solder basicly any wire in a harness, i had to do a couple of the thicker battery ones (like the alternator ones) and this thing got it done in seconds. there is no way my old 40W plug in deal would have been able to handle that.
bluepoint wirestripper / crimper a good wirestripper is a must for a job like that
upper right is the craftsman mulitmeter it has a "continuity check" feature that i use to check each system as i wired it back in to make sure it worked.
lower right: cornwell import terminal tool kit this kit will remove any pin from any plug on imports. (the safety pin pictured on the case works as well..lol)
and a whole crap load of shrink wrap. lmao

[lagos]

I've been raving about those butane soldering pens for years. I love mind so much, I bought a second one.
Where did you get yours from? Yours looks a lot nicer then mine.

[95st-celica]

glad to see its getting done, Art.. im excited to put this thing together, and hopefully one day, i'll understand and learn enough to be able to do the harness myself.....great work so far the both of yous...i can just imagine the PITA it is

[Dr_Tweak]

Manny... to ditch the fuel pump relay, take the 3 blue wires and solder them together. Then you will have 1 wire left over (goes to the ecu), just wrap that up or remove it from the harness. The fuel pump relay should only be there if your going to use the resistor pack. If not, ditch it because it will end up sending full voltage through a really thin gauge wire and will end up burning out the realy.

It's easier than that actually. There should be one (factory) wire, blue/black, coming from the circuit opening relay going to one of the interior plug. FP (diagnostic block) is spliced into that. Just leave it all factory and don't touch it.

goddamnit i hate the way this harness was put together.

it made SO much more work for me, i basicly have to cut and rewire every wire in this harness because of how long it was.

art/tweak can you tell me what this power wire plug is for? its located at the starter plugs.

Yeah I noticed with a lot of the harnesses that were sent to me for repair (that DG originally did) that it seemed like he was matching up wire colors and didn't actually know what any of the wires did. For example, I saw a few times he had the ignition/injectors power wire connected to the starter, because on some 6GC harnesses the power wire is solid black. The effect, obviously, was that the car would crank as soon as the key was turned to the on position and keep cranking, but never start

You are correct about the JDM harness being long enough once you turn it back around, basically you end up needing to extend just a few plugs, like the igniter and AFM connectors.

That plug above is for the starter sub-harness on ST harnesses, it plugs into the wire that then goes to the starter (remember on the ST it's down below the intake manifold). Normally you would eliminate that plug.

I ran into something that I cant figure out. Plug EA1 has a blue wire on pin 16, yet I can't find any mention of what this wire is for in any of my books. Anyone have a clue what its does? It might be something year specific, and thats why its not in my book.

Sorry for jacking your thread with my own questions Manny. If its a problem, I can start a new one. Oh and thanks to this thread, you motivated me to start working on this thing. I was slacking...big time, but now that I started on it, Im actually having a lot of fun with it.

art, the blue wire is for the fan switch in the radiator in ST's.
for some reason it routes that way, the GT's dont.
ill post a pic in a few of what the harness looks like now.

my harness is routed just like a 5s harness now, art.

it starts at the diagnostics box, ignitor and coil (i moved the map sensor to the stock 5s location, then goes to the waterneck, then some wires go the the fuse box, the rest go up thru the manifold, and into the boot on the other side, just like a stock harness.

i had to cut and splice a few wires as i went, to get the rest of the wires to be able to "flip", then cut out all the extra wire out (which sucked because of how dave extended it, once i had it all going the right way.

That's correct on the blue wire, should be blue/black actually. Normally when I do a 3SGTE into an ST, I go to a GT radiator, get the GT fan switch, and then extend that wire down to connect to the stock GT fan switch in the bottom of the radiator. Then everything works just like factory

Thanks for the plug manny

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Dec 28, 2008 - 3:14 PM

[presure2]

That plug above is for the starter sub-harness on ST harnesses, it plugs into the wire that then goes to the starter (remember on the ST it's down below the intake manifold). Normally you would eliminate that plug.

thanks man.

yea, that blue wire is blue with black stripe.

NP on the plug, its 100% true too, and i think you would agree, that doing it from a factory harness is much easier than doing it with one thats been hacked to death like this one.

I've been raving about those butane soldering pens for years. I love mind so much, I bought a second one.
Where did you get yours from? Yours looks a lot nicer then mine.

yea, i got mine from the snap-on guy.

you really cant beat it.

[njccmd2002]

Sticky, so that everyone knows what wiring entails!!!!

[presure2]

Sticky, so that everyone knows what wiring entails!!!!

yea, i suposse we are gathering some good info in the process of this thread.

to clarify what i did with the fuel pump relay:

I took the blue wire with orange stripe (pin #1), and attached it to the blue wire with black stripe (pin#3) the blue with white stripe is the wire that normally goes to the fuel pump resistor, it was just jumpered back into the blue wire with black stripe a few inches back, so i removed it.
the green with red stripe (pin#4) is the wire that sends the signal to the ecu and can be totally removed.
like that i totally removed the FPR from the system, and the wires now run like it was never there.

[lagos]

^ Yep, thats perfect.

[lagos]

Sticky, so that everyone knows what wiring entails!!!!

Im making notes of what needs to be wired for a DIY your own swap harness post. This is something I wanted to do for 4yrs now, after my initial frustration with the lack of info when I started a swap wiring thread years ago (search for it). However Manny is 100% right, just mail your harness out and be done with it. Its well worth the money not to have to deal with this in the middle of trying to finish everything else about the swap that needs to be done.

Manny and I tried to do my harness years ago when I was swapping. We basically started, and got to a point where it was like, F this... trying to learn how to read a wiring diagram correctly, while trying to finish a swap on a deadline and a budget is just too much do deal with.

[lagos]

Yeah I noticed with a lot of the harnesses that were sent to me for repair (that DG originally did) that it seemed like he was matching up wire colors and didn't actually know what any of the wires did. For example, I saw a few times he had the ignition/injectors power wire connected to the starter, because on some 6GC harnesses the power wire is solid black. The effect, obviously, was that the car would crank as soon as the key was turned to the on position and keep cranking, but never start smile.gif

He wasnt just matching up colors, he was following someone elses work that had a few mistakes in it. There was actually a whole lot of drama regarding swap wiring that went on behind the scenes at that time. Its a long story. lol.

[presure2]

yup, mikes original diagrams back in the day had a few mistakes in them..hehe