replacing thermostat.. |
replacing thermostat.. |
Apr 4, 2009 - 9:52 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
i've been reading ALOT of post about it and it seems to me that its a easy fix.. everyone's saying its a easy job!!.. but the problem is there's no picts to illustrate it or like step by step!!.. everyone saying that its a easy fix but no1 mention how to do it!!.. i'm trying to replace mine and was wondering if i'm sure where its located.. its circled in RED in the picture!!.. is that it?? i own a GT so.. its underneath the alternator.. above the ac compressor.. on the end of the lower rad hose(passenger side).. next to the oil filter!!.. am i right??
n i read that the thermostat has to be placed like correctly if not it'll not work!!.. so i'll be grateful if some1 can post a pict of how its supposed to be placed!!.. i've the thermostat n how do you tell whats up n whats down?? i know the this little nipple like thingy.. most mods on my car are done by me.. i know what i'm doing.. (well.. most of the time..) i replaced my rotors.. install my springs n struts.. install gen5 mirrors.. etc etc etc.. so yup.. |
Apr 4, 2009 - 10:12 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 7, '07 From Corpus Christi, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
Yes your correct in the pic. The thermostat is located there. But one thing to be sure of is to make sure during installation u silicone or buy a gasset to place btween ur bottleneck and block otherwise ur gonna leak everywhere.
-------------------- From Japan to Texas my st202 follows me.
Being different from every angle of the word, leading the Revolution (TOYOTA NATION) The RHD st202 that made it from Japan check it out. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78103 |
Apr 4, 2009 - 10:19 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
Like joe said, thats it right there. Your t-stat is located up in that water inlet. When you install it, use a new gasket, or something. You want to align the "jiggle" valve on your thermostat with the protrusion on the water inlet.
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Apr 4, 2009 - 10:20 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 17, '04 From California Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
i've been reading ALOT of post about it and it seems to me that its a easy fix.. everyone's saying its a easy job!!.. but the problem is there's no picts to illustrate it or like step by step!!.. everyone saying that its a easy fix but no1 mention how to do it!!.. i'm trying to replace mine and was wondering if i'm sure where its located.. its circled in RED in the picture!!.. is that it?? i own a GT so.. its underneath the alternator.. above the ac compressor.. on the end of the lower rad hose(passenger side).. next to the oil filter!!.. am i right?? n i read that the thermostat has to be placed like correctly if not it'll not work!!.. so i'll be grateful if some1 can post a pict of how its supposed to be placed!!.. i've the thermostat n how do you tell whats up n whats down?? i know the this little nipple like thingy.. most mods on my car are done by me.. i know what i'm doing.. (well.. most of the time..) i replaced my rotors.. install my springs n struts.. install gen5 mirrors.. etc etc etc.. so yup.. I was gonna make a write up when my car is up and running... but just take those two bolts out that you have circled in your picture, ( you dont have to take the hose off) then, just replace the thermostat exactly in the position the stock one is in. you may want to buy some thermostat housing sealant... i saw some at autozone. its about 3-4 bux for a tube. just put a little on the housing as there is no gasket. then just put everything back. Here is a link on how to do it on a MR2. Its not mounted directly to the block like the celica but the idea is the same. I hope this helps. MR2 Mod project |
Apr 4, 2009 - 2:02 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
thanks for the response guys.. i got the gasket.. the parts guy from the dealership told me to get the gasket too.. i'll take some picts and maybe do a "how to".. the weather decided to go bad.. started snowing.. looks like i've to wait for another day.. meanwhile i'll take some picts of the parts needed n etc etc.. thanks again.. i'll get a new radiator cap while i'm at it..
my car has been undercooling alot!!.. my temp needle has been fluctuating since i got the car which was more than 6months now.. when i brought my car to the shop when my water pump exploded.. they told me there's a hairline crack on my coolant reservoir.. it was causing the fluctuation!!.. so went to get 1 n replaced it but the temp needle's still fluctuating.. i checked my "cracked" coolant reservoir but there was no crack.. i've been doing alot of reading on this forum bout cooling/temperature/thermostat n so now i'm thinking of replacing my thermostat n the radiator cap.. unless there's a bigger problem.. very rarely i see the needle on the half way mark.. when my water pump exploded.. the temp was showing below half.. so yup.. the repair cost me an arm n a leg.. new water pump.. new belts.. new coolant.. all new now.. just waiting on the thermostat n the rad cap now.. anyhu.. i better stop yappin.. peace out.. This post has been edited by shegarhuney: Apr 4, 2009 - 2:06 PM |
Apr 4, 2009 - 6:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
i would advise you do a coolant flush while you're at it. a bottle of off-the-shelf coolant flush is only $5. don't overtorque the 2 10mm nuts on the waterneck to the waterpump (circled in red), the studs are relatively soft (aluminum studs ftl) so just tighten them snug but don't force it too much.. i broke one of mine in the process. bleed it well.
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Apr 5, 2009 - 1:21 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 26, '09 From Longmont, CO. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
i would advise you do a coolant flush while you're at it. a bottle of off-the-shelf coolant flush is only $5. don't overtorque the 2 10mm nuts on the waterneck to the waterpump (circled in red), the studs are relatively soft (aluminum studs ftl) so just tighten them snug but don't force it too much.. i broke one of mine in the process. bleed it well. X2. if it still fluctuates try testing your temp sensor for the guage, and if it tests out, test the temp guage itself, if all is well just make sure the system is bled well and u have a good headgasket. air in the system will cuase this fluctuation. -------------------- Lift Addict!! ^_^
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Apr 8, 2009 - 5:10 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 21, '05 From Wpg, MB. Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
What tool do you use to get at those 2 bolts? Do you remove the oil filter first? There's no space to get a wrench in there... at least, from what I've tried.
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Apr 8, 2009 - 8:34 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
Swivel socket adapter.
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Apr 8, 2009 - 10:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 26, '09 From Longmont, CO. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Swivel socket adapter. yup, and either a 10mm or 12mm 6-point short socket -------------------- Lift Addict!! ^_^
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Apr 8, 2009 - 11:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
actually the lower right of the two 10mm bolts is hard to remove since the a/c compressor is in the way.. the gap is less than an inch i think. but if you don't have a socket small or the proper tools to get that out, you'll need to unbolt the a/c compressor from the block. It's being held by 3 long 14mm bolts iirc (but don't remove the a/c hoses!). after you remove it everything else is pretty straight forward. i had to do this because i couldn't stand having to rotate the bolt little by little, it would take forever!
This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 8, 2009 - 11:21 PM -------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
Apr 10, 2009 - 6:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
parts needed..
and since replacing this doesnt cost much.. so i though of changing it too since its been more than 12yrs now.. i tried removing the two bolts.. i only managed to remove the upper bolt!!.. i need the swivel socket thingy!!.. need to get the tools from somebody or somewhere 1st!!.. will try again tomorrow.. |
Apr 10, 2009 - 6:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
as i said, just unbolt the 3 bolts holding the a/c compressor to the block.
This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 10, 2009 - 6:46 PM -------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
Apr 12, 2009 - 8:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '08 From AZ, US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
tools needed!!.. the tool 2nd from the left is the swivel socket adapter!!..
the reason i didnt remove the ac compressor is bcoz i dont want to mess up anything.. there's a belt connected to it anyway.. so i think i duwan to mess that.. besides.. a swivel socket adapter only cost like $5.. i bought it from checkers.. anyhu.. moving along.. coz i was working it alone.. i didnt really took many picts.. but once you get the bolts off.. it should looks something like that!!.. i didnt see any markings whatsoever which indicate the placement of the jiggle valve.. so i just place the new thermostat like how the old 1 was!!.. then just screw back the bolts & make sure you dont screw it too tight!!.. as mentioned by azian.. i would advise you do a coolant flush while you're at it. a bottle of off-the-shelf coolant flush is only $5. don't overtorque the 2 10mm nuts on the waterneck to the waterpump (circled in red), the studs are relatively soft (aluminum studs ftl) so just tighten them snug but don't force it too much.. i broke one of mine in the process. bleed it well. after that.. - remove radiator & overflow reservoir cap.. - refill your coolant.. (till the top of the radiator & 3/4 on the reservoir) - turn on engine.. (with radiator & overflow reservoir cap off) - wait for like 5-10mins.. - give it a few revs.. - turn on your heater.. - top off coolant.. - a few more revs.. - check coolant see you need to top off more.. - after 15-20mins with the engine on.. - close rad & overflow cap.. - make sure there are not coolant leaking for the bolts.. if there is.. just tighten it abit more.. - turn off engine.. - wait for like half and hour.. (go take a shower or drink some water) - go check coolant level.. make sure the reservoir doesnt go dry.. if not you're all set!!.. so that concluded my installation of my new thermostat n radiator cap.. opps.. as for the radiator cap.. replace with new n throw the old 1 away.. i think u're capable of that w/o pictures.. RIGHT?? thank you for reading n i hope this helps.. if there's anything not right here.. do correct me!!.. thanks again.. p/s i didnt have time to check whether my temp needle's still fluctuates.. will test drive it when my car's fixed!!.. coz now i've a new problem.. will not go into that.. peace out!!.. |
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