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> Issues with my sisters car and I am stumped.
post Apr 2, 2009 - 2:05 PM
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Ryouxrs



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QUOTE (bccentaur3 @ Apr 2, 2009 - 12:25 PM) *
^ i know that... I made sure the cam was at TDC and the crank was at TDC when I did the belt job. I also figured that if I was off a tooth or 2 it should start...

I'm going to swap the ignitor one more time and see what happens.


lol, sry. most people forget that part. good luck with the dist. let us know if this works, if no there are a few more areas to check


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post Apr 2, 2009 - 2:31 PM
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bccentaur3



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Well I'm going to the breaker yard to pick up an ecu for the car.


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98 Celica gt red- totaled deer
94 Celica st black DD (bad weather beater)- totaled deer
95 Celica gt silver- chassis sold
88 Celica All-Trac (Burned to a crisp)
94 Celica gt white (sold)

In need of a rust free chassis!!!!
post Apr 5, 2009 - 2:46 AM
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DavezXTC

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you'd be surprised on the timing thing, it really needs to be dead on. it seems much more crucial on a quad rather than dohc, but ive found picky ones of each. anyhow i had this same problem after a oil pump replacement, and after throwing parts at it for days i finally figured it out. it was totally unrelated, but my coil was not up to par. I replaced the coil and it fired right up no problem. The only indicator was by looking at the color of the spark on the plug, just pull a plug out, put it back in the boot, then ground it the engine or frame and look at the color of the spark. with a charged up battery it better be blue, if its orange or yellowish then i'd think about throwing coil in it.

if that checks out fine, go back in and check the timing marks, you are at the point now where you just need to eliminate the possibilities.
post Apr 8, 2009 - 6:41 PM
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johnnypopper420

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as far as your transmission goes, if you have an automatic computer in it and it isn't getting a signal from the tranmissions computer(automatic) that it is in park or nuetral, regardless of the shifters position upon removal, then it won't even crank. this is assuming you didn't change any connections to MAKE it crank. do you have a dmm? if so check your coil again, and if it is indeed within specs and getting spark just follow your components between there and your plugs. that should narrow it down a little for you.

also, and i am not sure on the 5s what this would affect, but if you removed the crank position sensor when you did the timing belt, or it is just too far out of spec (resistance and clearence) it may not be understanding that the engine is even turning over. you may want to check to be sure that you have connected that.

This post has been edited by johnnypopper420: Apr 8, 2009 - 6:46 PM


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"on the first day, god created fuel injection. on the second day, he created DOHC. on the third day, he created the dual friction clutch. on the fourth day, he created the LSD. on the fifth day, he created the turbo. on the SIXTH day he made a car so amazing, it deserved nothing less than these. and on the seventh day, he drove the HELL outa his 6GC."
-Ryan
post Apr 12, 2009 - 6:22 PM
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kaboom16

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QUOTE (bccentaur3 @ Apr 2, 2009 - 1:25 PM) *
^ i know that... I made sure the cam was at TDC and the crank was at TDC when I did the belt job. I also figured that if I was off a tooth or 2 it should start...

I'm going to swap the ignitor one more time and see what happens.

i recently just rebuilt my 5sfe and when i went to start it i also had this problem it wouldnt start no matter what i did, so i took off my valve cover and checked my timing and realized that there are two marks on the exhaust cam i believe and i had lined up the wrong dots, so as soon as i relined them back up and putit back together it fired right up. and if they are out of time you should have a weak vacum on your intake so check that

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