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> CV boot, need some help
post Jun 27, 2009 - 2:45 PM
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jordisonjr



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So i just picked up my car from gettin the front wheel bearings replaced, and the mechanic said i need a front CV boot on the passenger side. I've done some searching on 6GC and haven't reall found much about it. Does anyone know if there is a how to on here that i could use to do it myself Im kinda short on cash and can't afford to pay someone to do it for me.
Also, Would it be best to use the OEM boot or should any CV boot be alright to use? Thanks -Colin


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1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

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post Jun 27, 2009 - 3:30 PM
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808celica



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OEM boot. just get a whole new axle.

its easy as pie:
-lift car
-take off wheel
-loosen you balljoint
-im sure you have to drain your tranny not sure though
-there's a bracket that's holding the axle with 2 bolts IIRC
-remove those bolts
-then go back to the wheel hub and remove the pin and shield, then loosen the big axle nut i think its 30mm?? (i forget, but im gonna take off mines soon also)
-remove nut and push the axle out of the hub, you will have to lift the wheel hub towards you while pushing on the axle to remove it from the hub
-after all of that the axle should just pull right off

to install reverse the steps


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Jun 27, 2009 - 3:36 PM
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56willysnut



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I just replaced all four on the kids' S/T. Bought them from Oriellys Auto (under 10 apiece). He should have replaced the boots when he did the bearings. Now you get to undo what he just put back together.

Raise car onto sturdy jackstands, remove wheel, axle nut (may need to use crowbar wedged between stud and hub other end against the ground. to keep it from turning), Unbolt lower ball joint from control arm. Unbolt swaybar link. drain trans, pull axle out of spindle/ brake caliper. Then pry inner CV joint out of trans, removing entire axle assembly from vehicle. Using a very small screwdriver un bend keepers on the boots bands, and carefully unbend the clamps. Make a mental note of assembly so you can put ti back properly. The inner joint comes first, using a paint pen mark the parts for reassembly (match mark) remove clamp and boot. pull boot back to allow access to the snap ring to be able to disassemble the inner joint. mark these parts too. Remove outer boot clamps and slide boot off axle shaft. Note; outer CV joint does not come apart, all clamps, boots slide onto shaft and are reassembled using new grease included in the kit.

Use care and make sure all parts go back together in proer alignment so you don't have any vibrations.

This post has been edited by 56willysnut: Jun 27, 2009 - 3:39 PM
post Jun 27, 2009 - 3:45 PM
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808celica



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you dont have to unbolt the swaybar link, but if it makes it easier i guess you can. and if you're gonna rebuild (which i dont approve) DONT reuse clamps, have lots of rags, an extra pair of hands, and go crazy with the grease.


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Jun 27, 2009 - 11:06 PM
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jordisonjr



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808celica, So your saying i should just go buy a whole new axle instead of just replacing teh cv boot? Would this still be cheaper then paying someone to change my cv boot? If I do replace the axle on one side, should i do both or would it be fine to just do one side at a time?


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-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jun 28, 2009 - 4:35 AM
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808celica



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well let's put it this way, i rebuilt my driver's side and now something's funny about it. so i have a new Cardone axle from one of my contacts and im replacing it when i drop my trans.


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Jun 28, 2009 - 4:29 PM
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azian_advanced



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i'm selling a brand new oem cv boot which i never used because i ended up getting a whole new axle. if you know someone who knows how to properly disassemble/reassemble the cv joint, i can sell it to you.

there is a how to somewhere on this site, i'm just too lazy to find it.


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post Jun 28, 2009 - 6:27 PM
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Salica

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I bought my axle for like 30 dollars it was rebuilt but it has been great so far i replaced it myslef also. It fit right in and i havent had any problems with it. Goodluck.
post Jun 28, 2009 - 7:30 PM
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jordisonjr



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Azian, Do you know approximately what it would cost for someone to switch the CV boot for me? Im kinda on a tight budget.


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-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jun 28, 2009 - 7:51 PM
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samir0189



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As far as ive seen man, costs to replace the boots will probably be equal to or exceed the cost of you replacing the axle yourself, and if the boot is busted chances are the CV joint itself will soon fail, meaning more $ anyway.


you can replace one side axle at a time

entire axles sell for as little as $50.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jun 28, 2009 - 7:54 PM


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My F/S Thread!

QUOTE
(14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out.

QUOTE
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No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings.
post Jun 28, 2009 - 9:17 PM
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azian_advanced



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sorry i don't know anyone who knows how to do it. i think there may be some special tools required to do this but i'm not entirely sure. try asking the dealer how much they charge if you were to just bring in the axle and swap the cv boot only. but yeah if it's been torn for a while you should just save up and get a whole new axle. i've had one axle boot that was torn and 6 months later the cv joint totally disconnected because of the dirt & sand it picked up during the winter.


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post Jun 29, 2009 - 12:19 AM
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jordisonjr



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Would it be a good idea to just temporarily seal up the CV boot if possible, and then replace the axle once the CV joint goes too? Im not exactly sure how long it has been ripped for. This would prevent it from wearing out any quicker, and then I would just replace the axle if the CV joint is going to be worn out eventually regardless if i replace the CV boot or not.


--------------------
-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jun 29, 2009 - 12:44 AM
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pittfirefighter



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no don't do that... it could go bad at any point and leave you stranded... now you have a tow bill and a fix bill... REPLACE the entire axle asap... its not too tough... no special tools needed... i can walk you through it if you need too... as you can see from my sig... i do these things pretty regular


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Breaking Axles...
post Jun 29, 2009 - 3:09 AM
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808celica



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i'll be taking both of my axles off and i'll ask my sis to take some walk through pics


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Jun 29, 2009 - 2:37 PM
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jordisonjr



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That would be awesome, thanks.


--------------------
-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jun 29, 2009 - 3:14 PM
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rave2n

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Its pretty easy, I've done it myself on a Prism. Which is basically a Corolla. The 2 hardest parts i had to deal with was taking off the giant nut, and removing the axle from the tranny. That took some prying. All in all, its fairly easy, if you can turn a wrench you can do it. Did all this to fix a horribly bad bearing that I ignored for a year until the car started jerking to the left from the metal bits it was ground into. Didn't care much about vehicles then =P

I think if you want to get into specific smaller parts is when you start to need interesting tools. I found it easier to just replace the entire axle, and connect to the existing wheel hub. With a new bearing of course.

Cost me 50 bucks for the axle at a local yard. Cuts, bruises, and pulled hair - Priceless - I know how to do it now atleast =P - Haynes manual ftw.

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