Basic how to/walk through on Removing the Transmisson, reference thread for people |
Basic how to/walk through on Removing the Transmisson, reference thread for people |
Jun 29, 2009 - 4:20 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
gonna set up this thread before i foget. I'll be pulling the trans and everything else with it so people car use this, or not, as reference to removing axles, starter, and transmission.
not gonna be a perfect thread but it should do. -unhook battery -remove cruise control when applicable -remove starter -unhook shifter cables -remove slave from trans -drain tranny -remove axles remove speed sensor -----its behind the shifter cables just unhook it like the back up light -remove backup light sensor -remove center cross member -remove front mount -remove rear mount -support engine, unbolt trans mount -support trans -lowering trans -remove Pressure plate, disk, bearing -remove fork (cuz im replacing mines) it just pulls right out Installation is reverse sorry i didnt get pics i was doing this part by myself This post has been edited by 808celica: Jun 17, 2010 - 9:48 PM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jun 30, 2009 - 9:24 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
pics are up of some stuff. those who are removing axles you dont need to unhook your swaybar links
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jun 30, 2009 - 10:32 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 5:25 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
VERY COOL! btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way. yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 6:49 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 14, '09 From Portishead Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions:
1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny? 2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts? 3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount? 4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny? |
Jul 1, 2009 - 6:59 AM |
|
Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions: 1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny? 2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts? 3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount? 4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny? the front and rear mount are attched to the crossmember, that has to come out to lower the engine to remove and install the tranny. so yes, the front mount has to come out. the engine and tranny are held in place by the drivers side tranny mount, and the passanger side engine mount. the front and rear mount are there basicly just to stop the motor from turning on itself. you need to support the engine when you undo the tranny mount. you have to remove the 3 mounts i talked about earlier, then lower the engine/tranny combo to be able to get the tranny off and on. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Sep 19, '08 From Michigan Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (75%) |
Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 11:25 AM |
|
Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out? you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jul 1, 2009 - 12:02 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
VERY COOL! btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way. yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber it wont make a difference on the camber. camber is controlled by the two 19mm bolts that are connected to the strut. our cars have very little room for adjustment from those bolts, and you can simply push or pull the hub to/away from you to kick the camber out a little when you bolt everything back up. no negative impact to swinging that hub out, just less work. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 3:22 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out? you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch. Plus once you get to that point, unbolting the tranny from the engine is just easy so you almost might as well anyway, even if you didn't have to (but you totally DO) -------------------- |
Jul 1, 2009 - 4:17 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions: 1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny? 2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts? 3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount? 4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny? yups like what everyone said 1.Yes front and rear 2.No like Presure2(Manny) said both right and left side engine mounts hold the engine and tranny while the front and rear mounts are out. 3. Yes put a wooden block between the oil pan and jack and support the engine. Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission. Then remove the driver's side trans mount. 4. No you need to remove the front and rear engine mounts to get to the trans bolts and to lower the engine enough so you can slide out the trans. MAKE SURE YOU LOWER THE ENGINE ACCORDINGLY BECAUSE OF ALL THE WIRING AND YOUR EXHAUST. Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out? you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch. He has spoken VERY COOL! btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way. yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber it wont make a difference on the camber. camber is controlled by the two 19mm bolts that are connected to the strut. our cars have very little room for adjustment from those bolts, and you can simply push or pull the hub to/away from you to kick the camber out a little when you bolt everything back up. no negative impact to swinging that hub out, just less work. Ahhh okay thanks Art. I've been doing my way for soo long its like second nature already. Well i might as well remove my struts to put on my ebay coils cuz the 18's will go on for advertisement -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 4:45 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Apr 27, '09 From West Coast Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
folowed this guide for my auto to man swap.
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 5:24 PM |
|
Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
QUOTE Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission. lol..when i do it, i use the picker to hold the engine, placed in from the passanger side, attached to the drivers side engine hook. then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jul 1, 2009 - 5:38 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) |
then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done. no thanks sir. that is heavy. I used a jack and ropes to balance it... tried to bench press it but i almost end up hurting myself -------------------- Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL
If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in 2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here... A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within. @llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore. |
Jul 1, 2009 - 5:41 PM |
|
Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done. no thanks sir. that is heavy. I used a jack and ropes to balance it... tried to bench press it but i almost end up hurting myself yea, i use a jack with autos and the E153. now THATS a heavy transmission. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jul 1, 2009 - 8:08 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
QUOTE Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission. lol..when i do it, i use the picker to hold the engine, placed in from the passanger side, attached to the drivers side engine hook. then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done. Cuz your a monsta!! if i was a badass mofo like you manny i would bench press the tranny too just lazy hahaha i guess that's the new generation always looking for the easy way -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jul 1, 2009 - 10:03 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Sep 19, '08 From Michigan Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (75%) |
Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out? you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. Once the trans is SEPARATED from the engine (like a few inches), is there enough room to replace the clutch with the trans still under the car, or do you have to roll it outside? What I'm getting at is this: If you need to roll it outside, the car needs to be sitting up higher on stands to clear, right? |
Jul 2, 2009 - 4:56 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
Oh i read your question right I doubt the pressure plate bolts are easy to get to with the trans oh say about 4in. from the engine. There is just no room to get at it safely IMO. My car is sitting about 4ft. in the air in my garage on jack just to let you know
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Jul 2, 2009 - 6:26 AM |
|
Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out? you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. Once the trans is SEPARATED from the engine (like a few inches), is there enough room to replace the clutch with the trans still under the car, or do you have to roll it outside? What I'm getting at is this: If you need to roll it outside, the car needs to be sitting up higher on stands to clear, right? the tranny slides right out the wheelwell with the car on jackstands -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jul 2, 2009 - 12:29 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
if i dont get caught up ripping everything apart i'll take pics.
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: November 30th, 2024 - 4:08 AM |