Weird idle and low RPM acceleration problems, I owned myself. Options

[GriffGirl]

Two days ago when I left work for the day my car ran like complete crap. It ran fine that morning, but going home it was rough and crappy, and has been since.

The car starts just fine, but at idle, it idles low and very rough. When driving, it accelerates very poorly, and the acceleration is rough. I can floor it in 2nd gear on a steep hill, and not be able to get above about 23 mph. Acceleration smooths out at around 40mph, or above at least 2600 RPMs. Cruising speeds (45-70 depending on the road of course) feel mostly normal, unless I try to accelerate to pass or something. Accelerating from cruising speed feels smooth, but is very slow going. Oh- and if I drive below 40 with the a/c on, it just sucks what little power is left out of it and the car just barely wants to go. A/C on at idle, and it almost stalls out.

This hasn't been a progressive thing at all, it literally feels like it just started out of nowhere. I've checked my vacuum lines, nothing came disconnected. I cleaned out the throttle body but that didn't matter. I *attempted* to use seafoam through the brake booster line, but there's no suction. Idle increases to 2000 RPMs when brake booster is disconnected, but I thought maybe I should rev the engine with the line in the seafoam - I couldn't remember. So I haven't gone back to do that yet. (will it make a difference?)

Any ideas that specifically jump out at you guys? This weekend I will check the IAC. Next weekend I'm doing an oil change, so I will also do a tune up and replace plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Air filter is Injen and was cleaned about 5000 miles ago, but I'll probably clean it again just for good measure. (it didn't look too bad when I removed the intake to clean the TB yesterday)

HELP!

oh yeah - and if someone wouldn't mind telling me exactly WHERE the IAC is on my car (7AFE) that would be faboo. I know it's somewhere @ the bottom of the TB...?

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jul 21, 2009 - 10:35 AM

[95CelicaST]

IAC is in the intake arm (IIRC). Have you tried resetting the ECU? I had this problem after I unhooked the battery and didn't let the ECU go through it's relearn process. There is a how-to on here somewhere...

[GriffGirl]

I seafoamed just now; had the wrong end of the brake booster hose disconnected. DUH. No wonder there was no suction! LOL

Other than a CRAP LOAD of smoke, it doesn't seem that the seafoam helped. I did however notice that an alarming amount of smoke was actually coming out from my exhaust manifold. Not nearly as much as my tail pipe, but more than I'd image should come out, and definitely more than the last time I seafoamed, about a year or so ago.

Tried to reset the ECU. Is the ECU the fuse that's labeled "MAIN 60A"? Even looking at the relay components diagram from the BGB, nothing actually says "ECU". And I can't seem to remove the EFI Main Relay. I'm afraid I'll break it. What is the correct way to remove it? Lastly is the HTR fuse, that's a small one and is easy to remove. Anyway I wound up just pulling the one that says "MAIN", thinking it's probably the ECU. We'll see how it goes when I drive home in a little bit.

Note: Coomer's write up says to remove the Hazard, EFI and ECU from the relay box under the hood. That's not where my Hazard fuse is located, I wonder if his write up was based off of his silvertop? The hazard (at least on a 7A) is located under the kick panel, behind the fuse box, up under the dash. I'm not messing with it.

I have a spare TB @ home, IIRC it has the IAC on it... maybe I'll take that one apart so I know what I'm doing before I go screwing anything (else?) up.

[95CelicaST]

I reset my ECU by simply unhooking the battery, getting in the car, and pressing the brake down for a minute or so, and then let it sit for 30 mins. Then came back and hooked the battery back up, started it, and let it sit at idle for 15 mins (for manual trans).

Then my rough idle, poor acceleration, and stalling went away.


I would say bring it up and we'll have a look at it, but if it isn't running well that won't work.

[razor7]

I seafoamed just now; had the wrong end of the brake booster hose disconnected. DUH. No wonder there was no suction! LOL

Other than a CRAP LOAD of smoke, it doesn't seem that the seafoam helped. I did however notice that an alarming amount of smoke was actually coming out from my exhaust manifold. Not nearly as much as my tail pipe, but more than I'd image should come out, and definitely more than the last time I seafoamed, about a year or so ago.

Tried to reset the ECU. Is the ECU the fuse that's labeled "MAIN 60A"? Even looking at the relay components diagram from the BGB, nothing actually says "ECU". And I can't seem to remove the EFI Main Relay. I'm afraid I'll break it. What is the correct way to remove it? Lastly is the HTR fuse, that's a small one and is easy to remove. Anyway I wound up just pulling the one that says "MAIN", thinking it's probably the ECU. We'll see how it goes when I drive home in a little bit.

Note: Coomer's write up says to remove the Hazard, EFI and ECU from the relay box under the hood. That's not where my Hazard fuse is located, I wonder if his write up was based off of his silvertop? The hazard (at least on a 7A) is located under the kick panel, behind the fuse box, up under the dash. I'm not messing with it.

I have a spare TB @ home, IIRC it has the IAC on it... maybe I'll take that one apart so I know what I'm doing before I go screwing anything (else?) up.

You're talking about relays, he's talking about fuses. You should have the EFI fuse (10a?) hazard fuze (15a?) and ECU fuse (15a?). I thought it was one of the relays too, but taking out the fuses works. They will pull out easily with a needle nose plier.

-TC

[GriffGirl]

Oh, so then they're not in the fuse panel under the hood, they're in the junction by the kickpanel inside the car?

[Spider77]

Not sure bout ST's, but I know on mine those fuses can be found under the hood, as well as the relays. I just disconnect my battery whenever I want to reset it. Let it sit for a bit then hook it up and have fun. As far as seafoam, I stopped using the regular stuff (save for the fuel), and instead use the deep creep. I can spray it in anywhere, usually by the brake booster and the T/B.

[trdproven]

TPS or if automatic transmission. or poorly adjusted distributor ass.

[Bitter]

timing belt could have jumped a tooth or two

[gt_driFFter]

fuel filter, rotor, plugs, wires, distributor.

In order of least $ --> most $

[Spider77]

ewwwww....fuel filter. Still havent changed mine out (really seized on there)

[fastercelica]

i had the same problem with mine. on my way to the gas station it just felt like i wasnt getting any power. then when i came back out it just wouldnt start. went back the next day and it started and i drove it home. for a while it ran great but now it still has bad days.

[GriffGirl]

TPS or if automatic transmission. or poorly adjusted distributor ass.

Manual. Thought about TPS - what/how would I check this?

timing belt could have jumped a tooth or two

How would I be able to tell? I don't know jack about the timing belt, except for where it is.

fuel filter, rotor, plugs, wires, distributor.

In order of least $ --> most $

Fuel filter was done less than a year ago.

Plugs wires cap & rotor will come next weekend actually.... although I'm due for them, I'm doubtuful this is the culprit. Loss of power, decreased mileage, sure. But this? IDK...

i had the same problem with mine. on my way to the gas station it just felt like i wasnt getting any power. then when i came back out it just wouldnt start. went back the next day and it started and i drove it home. for a while it ran great but now it still has bad days.

And?....?

btw: Beavercreek what? OR?

[GriffGirl]

One time, at band camp, my battery slid off the tray while I was driving, but I didn't know it right away, and when it slid off, it knocked a spark plug wire off the dizzy cap. And then another time, at band camp, like 3 days later, I was looking under the hood of my car thinking something HAS to be disconnected, this HAS to be electrical, and I was following the plug wires to the dizzy cap, and before I could process the thought, I stuck my finger against this little black hole thingie on the distributor cap, and it was all like BZZZZZZZT and was all like OWWWWWWW and then I was like oh hey, there's supposed to be a spark plug wire there! SO I like shut off the car, and was like BAM and what not.

[95CelicaST]

Problem solved?

[DEATH]

Not fail if you fixed it Griffy.

[Bitter]

now get a battery tie down and be happy that you didn't have your battery slide somewhere else and short itself...then explode!

[GriffGirl]

now get a battery tie down and be happy that you didn't have your battery slide somewhere else and short itself...then explode!

Boy howdy! I have the regular battery bracket thingie, I just never could figure out exactly where the hell it goes in beneath the battery.

Still gonna do that tune up/fluids change this weekend. I'm just SO happy to "have" my car back. Man that was stressing me out!

I reset my ECU by simply unhooking the battery, getting in the car, and pressing the brake down for a minute or so, and then let it sit for 30 mins. Then came back and hooked the battery back up, started it, and let it sit at idle for 15 mins (for manual trans).

Then my rough idle, poor acceleration, and stalling went away.


I would say bring it up and we'll have a look at it, but if it isn't running well that won't work.

LOL yeah... with a major slap to the forehead D'OH! moment.

[DEATH]

Boy howdy! I have the regular battery bracket thingie, I just never could figure out exactly where the hell it goes in beneath the battery.

Look for two small [approx 1/4"] drilled holes on either side of the tray ont he frame rail there - the hooks go in there. The stock system still sux anyway tho. Good luck