FS: Eurou Raiser Blocks & CF Vent for GT4 Hood, Eurou Raiser Blocks in stock, 1 FG & 1 CF each! |
FS: Eurou Raiser Blocks & CF Vent for GT4 Hood, Eurou Raiser Blocks in stock, 1 FG & 1 CF each! |
Dec 15, 2009 - 10:53 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 12, '09 From N.Ireland Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Eurou Raiser Blocks:
1) OOBE - CF 2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF 3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG 4) smirnoff - FG |
Dec 30, 2009 - 12:56 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Eurou Raiser Blocks:
1) OOBE - CF 2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF 3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG 4) smirnoff - FG Hood Vents: 1) OOBE - Black CF Come on, guys...let's do this! This post has been edited by OOBE: Dec 30, 2009 - 12:57 AM -------------------- |
Jan 1, 2010 - 1:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 17, '05 From Newcastle / UK Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Thanks to Vincent I now have my CF bonnet vents
I know a few people were worried that the rear vents had no fixings fitted and were dubious of using sticky tape / glue to secure them so heres a quick how to for a more oem fitting. You will need; Suitable long enough bolts with nuts and washers, a spanner or ratchet and socket combo to remove the old vents and secure the new ones. A suitable two pack epoxy or glue combo. Id say it would have to be a two pack variety as they cure quicker and are generally much more secure than standard type glues. I used JB Quick Weld as I cant rate this stuff highly enough. Remove the standard vents by loosening the nuts that secure them. Next place the new vent onto the bonnet (yeah you call it a hood ) some tape may come in helpful to secure it as your going to mark the bottom of the vent for where we're going to secure the bolts. With the vent in place, raise the bonnet, and through the oem fixing holes mark the underside of the new vent. The hole is quite small, I used a welding rod to scratch the underside. It doesnt have to be exact as this is only a guide for where we're going to put our first blob of two pack adhesive. Remove the vent, now put your new bolts through the fixing holes in the bonnet from the top, down over. Next mix a little two pack adhesive and put a small blob - enough for the head of the bolt to squash into, it doesnt need to be any bigger at this stage - on each of the two marks that you made earlier on the back of your vent, do the vents one at a time due to the curing time of the adhesive. Next carefully refit the vent to the bonnet being very careful of the adhesive on the back, at this point tape the vent down to stop it moving around as the adhesive is still quite pliable. With the vent in place, open bonnet and push the bolts gently up into the adhesive, twist them gently back and fort to seat them securely. Most two pack adhesives cure pretty quick - about 15 minutes depending on temperatureand quantity with full hardness in a couple of hours. At this point you have two choices, let the small blob cure fully or if your confident of your skills and steady hand, removed the vent very carefully after about 10 minutes making sure you dont move or misalign the bolts. If you misalign them at this stage your vents wont line up and will look crap. Once the vents are removed, mix up a bigger quantity of adhesive and apply around the head of the bolt to secure it fully. Dont refit the vent until the glue has cured completely or youll risk pulling the bolt out when you tighten the nuts. Once fully cured you can fit your vents and secure them with the nuts and washers, take care when tightening the nuts and dont over tighten them. The snorkel vent comes with fixings already fitted so is just a straight swap out. Pretty straight forward job to do, should only take an hour to do depending on the speed that your glue cures and how brave you are. Id advise the final cure is left over night so as not to risk pulling the bolts out. -------------------- 1994 JDM GT4 WRC
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Jan 1, 2010 - 1:18 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
You have one of the sexiest GT-4s and now it has become even more sexier.
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Jan 1, 2010 - 3:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 10, '08 From Ct Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
what is does the FG mean for the raiser blocks?
This post has been edited by 6gcnoob: Jan 1, 2010 - 3:50 PM |
Jan 1, 2010 - 5:22 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
FG means the raiser blocks are made of fiberglass instead of carbon fiber.
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Jan 1, 2010 - 6:24 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 10, '08 From Ct Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
how much shipped to 06331?
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Jan 1, 2010 - 6:34 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 25, '06 From Hong Kong Currently Offline Reputation: 256 (100%) |
how much shipped to 06331? FG USD$100 + Shipping CF/Kevlar USD$160 + Shipping shipping is about usd$35 -------------------- |
Jan 2, 2010 - 12:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '04 From Hong Kong Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Thanks to Vincent I now have my CF bonnet vents I know a few people were worried that the rear vents had no fixings fitted and were dubious of using sticky tape / glue to secure them so heres a quick how to for a more oem fitting. You will need; Suitable long enough bolts with nuts and washers, a spanner or ratchet and socket combo to remove the old vents and secure the new ones. A suitable two pack epoxy or glue combo. Id say it would have to be a two pack variety as they cure quicker and are generally much more secure than standard type glues. I used JB Quick Weld as I cant rate this stuff highly enough. Remove the standard vents by loosening the nuts that secure them. Next place the new vent onto the bonnet (yeah you call it a hood ) some tape may come in helpful to secure it as your going to mark the bottom of the vent for where we're going to secure the bolts. With the vent in place, raise the bonnet, and through the oem fixing holes mark the underside of the new vent. The hole is quite small, I used a welding rod to scratch the underside. It doesnt have to be exact as this is only a guide for where we're going to put our first blob of two pack adhesive. Remove the vent, now put your new bolts through the fixing holes in the bonnet from the top, down over. Next mix a little two pack adhesive and put a small blob - enough for the head of the bolt to squash into, it doesnt need to be any bigger at this stage - on each of the two marks that you made earlier on the back of your vent, do the vents one at a time due to the curing time of the adhesive. Next carefully refit the vent to the bonnet being very careful of the adhesive on the back, at this point tape the vent down to stop it moving around as the adhesive is still quite pliable. With the vent in place, open bonnet and push the bolts gently up into the adhesive, twist them gently back and fort to seat them securely. Most two pack adhesives cure pretty quick - about 15 minutes depending on temperatureand quantity with full hardness in a couple of hours. At this point you have two choices, let the small blob cure fully or if your confident of your skills and steady hand, removed the vent very carefully after about 10 minutes making sure you dont move or misalign the bolts. If you misalign them at this stage your vents wont line up and will look crap. Once the vents are removed, mix up a bigger quantity of adhesive and apply around the head of the bolt to secure it fully. Dont refit the vent until the glue has cured completely or youll risk pulling the bolt out when you tighten the nuts. Once fully cured you can fit your vents and secure them with the nuts and washers, take care when tightening the nuts and dont over tighten them. The snorkel vent comes with fixings already fitted so is just a straight swap out. Pretty straight forward job to do, should only take an hour to do depending on the speed that your glue cures and how brave you are. Id advise the final cure is left over night so as not to risk pulling the bolts out. very good job......and professional to fix up .. I need follow you. hehe -------------------- |
Jan 2, 2010 - 12:25 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 10, '08 From Ct Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
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Jan 2, 2010 - 4:32 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 19, '09 From Sydney Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I'd buy the raiser blocks, but I need a 2-post spoiler.
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Jan 5, 2010 - 12:32 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 25, '06 From Hong Kong Currently Offline Reputation: 256 (100%) |
Placed order already!!
Pls ready for your payment!! -------------------- |
Jan 5, 2010 - 3:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Woo-hoo!
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Jan 5, 2010 - 8:13 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 30, '04 From Atlantic City Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
so the euro blocks are ready for payment?
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Jan 6, 2010 - 12:00 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 25, '06 From Hong Kong Currently Offline Reputation: 256 (100%) |
so the euro blocks are ready for payment? Yes, pls make up your mind on CF vs FG -------------------- |
Jan 7, 2010 - 1:49 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
Can you save me my raisers and hood vents until the 31st of January, which is when I get paid? I spent all my money on an engine and tranny. You know I'm a man of my word.
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Jan 7, 2010 - 3:33 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 25, '06 From Hong Kong Currently Offline Reputation: 256 (100%) |
Can you save me my raisers and hood vents until the 31st of January, which is when I get paid? I spent all my money on an engine and tranny. You know I'm a man of my word. yea, ok -------------------- |
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:44 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 30, '04 From Atlantic City Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) |
FG.
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Jan 9, 2010 - 11:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 17, '05 From Newcastle / UK Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
The quality of these vents is superb and they look great once fitted.
You wont be dissapointed when you get them! -------------------- 1994 JDM GT4 WRC
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Jan 19, 2010 - 7:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 12, '09 From N.Ireland Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Vincent I'm delighted these eurou raisers are now available will pay you next week as soon as I get paid, jeez I hate january get paid before xmas then wait 6 weeks to get paid again.
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